M-14 Norincos with 2011 import markings

raindog said:
Both 2011 shorties I have worked on had spot welded flash hiders, but not to worry, it is pretty easy to knock them loose. The flash hiders came free intact, just a few serious whacks with a big hammer and a brass drift.
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yeah I've seen a utube vid of that..


How hard is it to clean up after tho...

would a shorty still be able to be threaded for an aftermarket FH ?

Thanks


machman said:
look under the FH...do you see two holes, like a vampire bite? If not, it's been welded. You might see two 'halos' where the holes have been plug welded.
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Thanks


and thanks for the thread Squinty
 
Re: clean-up afterwards, a little light filing and some fine emery cloth is usually enough. Aftermarket FH will work no problem...make sure you don't lose the original castle nut and allen head lock-nut...you may need to re-use them. Don't wreck the castle nut using the wrong tool! Vise-grips a no-no!
 
Here are a few more questions:

My 2011 Norinco does not have any importer's markings. Does anyone know who imported them?

Does anyone know how many 2011 Norincos were imported?
 
Hmmm,

I've ordered a short rifle from Canada Ammo and hope she's decent. I previously got one of the first 2009 imports with the synthetic stock and have found her good to use right out of the box (though I might want to shorten the forend slightly to prevent vertical stringing after several shots). I know that some of the later imports that I've seen and heard about weren't as good (different colours/finishes on parts, etc) but am glad to hear that the 2011 imports seem satisfactory.

I've got an older Chu wood modeled specimen from Marstar, and though she worked fine, the rear sight adjustments to make up for barrel indexing does seem excessive. That, along with the hit and miss nature of the rear sites seem to be the biggest hurdles to those who want a rifle that's good to go out of the box.

Now I'm stuck waiting to see if my incoming shorty looks and handles decently, fingers crossed!
 
Mine has a welded flash suppressor. And here is Cerealblast's suppressor. I think it is also welded.

But to tell for sure, he has to turn it over.


m-14suppressor.jpg
 
Once you have the flash hider off you might as well replace it with a muzzle brake. Cheap and tames the recoil nicely, comes with proper castle nut pliers to boot.
www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12576/Product/M1A-MUZZLE-BRAKE-STABILIZER
 
CerealBlast said:
That sucks, they are barely visible....i thought mine was special....guess not....welded it is.
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Yes, it is easy to be fooled. I thought my 2010 standard version was not welded, but when I tried to remove the flash hider, it became obvious that it was.

Still, this is a minor issue. M14 Doctor field fix for this is to have a seated buddy firmly hold the stripped barrel/action assembly across his lap. Loosen the gas lock and swing the gas cylinder to one side. Back the castle nut off as far as it will go, and hold the rifle so the bayonet lug is up. Use a decent sized hammer and a large brass or mild steel drift on the base of the flash hider or bayonet lug and give it a sharp blow. Didn't budge? Quit hitting like a girl and try again!

When it begins to move, continue backing off the castle nut and striking until the flash hider falls off.
Sometimes the flash hider will crack - perfect excuse to replace it with something decent.

If it comes off intact as usual, just file or dremel out any burrs and smooth off any rough spots on the barrel. Many of the stock flash hiders are poorly machined with the splines or sight base crooked, so check it out closely. Replace it if it worries you, but in reality all but the most wonky ones will still allow you to zero your rifle.

Once taught this simple method, I have removed more than a few flash hiders in this fashion. I think there is very little chance of bending a barrel this way also, as it is pretty well cushioned by your buddies thighs. If he whines about bruises, you are hanging out with the wrong crowd :p
 
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machman said:
Re: clean-up afterwards, a little light filing and some fine emery cloth is usually enough. Aftermarket FH will work no problem...make sure you don't lose the original castle nut and allen head lock-nut...you may need to re-use them. Don't wreck the castle nut using the wrong tool! Vise-grips a no-no!
Click to expand...

Thanks machman


and thanks for the link to that kit Perforator


I think you can buy parts there for under $100 before tax chalkriver.
 
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