M1903 Springfield Dilemma

Doug2500

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Vernon, BC
I picked up a M1903 Springfield at a gun show recently with a shot out bore.

I'm in a dilemma as to whether I should look around for a new barrel for it, or just leave it as a wallhanger.

The barrel appears to be correct for the time period that this rifle was made, but the wierd thing is the reciever is a Springfield and the barrel is a Rock Island. Can anyone tell me whether this is the original barrel?
Would putting a different barrel on it devalue th gun?
What would it cost to have a gunsmith install a new barrel anyway?

Here are some pics (hope they work).

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A low number Springfield, you may want to read, “Hatcher’s Notebook”, by J.S. Hatcher. The early 1903 Springfield’s had some heat treatment problems with their receivers
 
A low number Springfield, you may want to read, “Hatcher’s Notebook”, by J.S. Hatcher. The early 1903 Springfield’s had some heat treatment problems with their receivers

From what I have read, the heat treating problem is with receivers numberred below 800,000.
 
Your barrel is a Rock Island Arsenal replacement, most likely from the immediate post WW1 period.

There is a new WW II dated Remington M1903 barrel in the Milsurp parts EE right now. Just need to install and swap your existing sights over. Probably short chambered. Any competent smith with a 30-06 reamer should not have any trouble. Epps, for example, charges $150.00
 
I've just had my 1903 Springfield rebarrelled by Alberta Tactical Rifle last month. Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, but she looks good. I supplied the barrel and it cost $131.00 for the barrel installation. I have a unissued M1903 barrel for sale in the EE currently.
 
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(1) "RA" is not Rock Island.
(2) An Arsenal rebarreled rifle is an acceptable one.
(3) Shoot it and see what results you get.
(4) If you think your rifle could be devalued by this Arsenal installed barrel, why do you think that putting another replacement barrel on it will not devalue it?
(5) Why is it that some of the GunNutz here go GA-GA over a rebuilt M1 Garand with a big "RA" stamped on the stock and that a "RA" barrel is to be thought that bad?
(6) It might be really difficult to find an original barrel with the "correct" month and year date on it that conforms to the serial number range of your rifle..

Clean the "iffy" barrel with some good foaming bore cleaner, scrub it and keep running patches through it until they come out clean. This might take several applications to get it clean. Some of the cruddiest rifle bores I have seen cleaned up to acceptable levels, and good ammunition, (particularly a reload tailored for that specific rifle,) can give some surprising scores.

My advice is: if the barrel has good rifling, shoots all right, and is in acceptable condition, I would not worry about it! Swedish m/96 Mauser rifles could be Arsenal rebarreled several times and it really does not tremendously devalue the rifles.
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I would consult Hatchers Note Book about the date.
I saw a new 03 barrel on this site for big bucks but research first then decide if you want to rebarrel your purchase.
I love the look of the 03s, that distinct hump of the top wood is ###y.
I can only shoot the 03 A3 because I can't see the d*m sights.
I have a beautiful 03 in .22 you wouldn't even know it was a .22.
 
Wall hanger? Pfft! I think you should take Garand up on his offer and purchase the other barrel. The 1903s were used into the 1950s so even if yours is WWI it probably was re-issued in WWII so in my humble opinion, getting a nice WWII barrel wouldn't devalue it. Plus that way you could at least enjoy it. Sticking it on the wall would be like buying a car and leaving it in the garage...just my over opinionated two cents :p
 
Replacement M1903 barrels are getting tough to find. The rifle is a high number model (safe to shoot) and is certainly worth re-barreling and shooting.

A new barrel will require finish reaming to set up the headspace. In addition to a finishing reamer, a proper action wrench, barrel vice, and a set of headspace gauges are also essential to do this job.
 
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(1) "RA" is not Rock Island.
(2) An Arsenal rebarreled rifle is an acceptable one.
(3) Shoot it and see what results you get.
(4) If you think your rifle could be devalued by this Arsenal installed barrel, why do you think that putting another replacement barrel on it will not devalue it?
(5) Why is it that some of the GunNutz here go GA-GA over a rebuilt M1 Garand with a big "RA" stamped on the stock and that a "RA" barrel is to be thought that bad?
(6) It might be really difficult to find an original barrel with the "correct" month and year date on it that conforms to the serial number range of your rifle..

Clean the "iffy" barrel with some good foaming bore cleaner, scrub it and keep running patches through it until they come out clean. This might take several applications to get it clean. Some of the cruddiest rifle bores I have seen cleaned up to acceptable levels, and good ammunition, (particularly a reload tailored for that specific rifle,) can give some surprising scores.

My advice is: if the barrel has good rifling, shoots all right, and is in acceptable condition, I would not worry about it! Swedish m/96 Mauser rifles could be Arsenal rebarreled several times and it really does not tremendously devalue the rifles.
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I guess I should have clarified things a bit.

The barrel is most definitely marked R.I.A. for Rock Island Arsenal. Its just hard to see the I in the pic because of the flash.

I was only really worried about devaluing the rifle by changing the barrel, if this happened to be the original barrel, which I'm guessing it is not.

The receiver is most definitely Springfield Armory made.

I think I'll look around on-line for a used barrel, or maybe a decent barrelled action. I don't want to put too much more money into this gun; not right now anyway. It also gives me one more thing to hunt for at gun shows.
 
the only thing you have to watch out for with a "new" 1903 barrel are its dimensions.

Many of the Remington barrels, are made for the 1903A3. They have different outside dimensions.

For one thing, they have to have the area for your tangental rear sight turned down to fit.

The 1903A3 barrels don't have that provision. The rifles they were intended for have their rear sights mounted on the receiver.

Not a big deal for a shooter but if you're trying to keep it original as a collectable, you need to find a proper dimensioned barrel.

Remington, Smith Corona and Savage, amongst many other sub contractors made barrels with the proper profile that you require. They may not be readily available in Canada but they are obtainable.

Try the Milsurp Knowledge site. They have a whole page on Springfields 1903 variants and where to find parts.
 
Ya, that's the one. I can't fault the seller though. I had a good look at the bore before buying it, and I knew if was iffy.

I had it in my hands, and was really torn about buying it until I saw that you could barely see through the bore. It's a damn shame, 'cause the exterior is cherry! Not trying to disrespect your cleaning methods, but have you tried using some J&B Bore Lapping paste on it? I've rescued a few "sewer pipe" bores by using that stuff. A few 24 hour soak sessions with WipeOut foaming cleanser will dissolve any copper buildup as well. Easier than trying to source a new barrel out...
 
I had it in my hands, and was really torn about buying it until I saw that you could barely see through the bore. It's a damn shame, 'cause the exterior is cherry! Not trying to disrespect your cleaning methods, but have you tried using some J&B Bore Lapping paste on it? I've rescued a few "sewer pipe" bores by using that stuff. A few 24 hour soak sessions with WipeOut foaming cleanser will dissolve any copper buildup as well. Easier than trying to source a new barrel out...

Many rifle bores that look terrible can be made "shootable" with our newer cleaning products. They can really clean out the crud, and even though the bore looks bad after a good cleaning, it can still shoot well.

Clean the bore the best you can. This may take several applications. I would also disassemble the rifle, and clean the barreled action disassembled from the stock. Not only is this handier to work with, but there is no problem with getting cleaners on the wood. Do an initial cleaning to get daylight through the bore, then run a couple of pints of BOILING water down the bore. Protect yourself while doing this. It will heat up the barrel and some of the crud will come out of the pores of the metal. Plug the chamber, even with some patching material, and then Wipe Out or other foaming bore cleaner. Follow the directions on the can.

When you get it to where you can fire it, then run about 10 rounds through it, and give it another good cleaning, again using the foaming bore cleaner.

You might be surprised what you end up with.
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