I am in the process of restocking a 1910 sporter & need to know if there is supposed to be any fore tip pressure on the barrel a la enfield. I managed a 4" group with bad bedding on the sporter stock & an aperture made from card stock so I am hopeful for this build. Finding a front band is also going to pose a problem, I think. Any tips?
Ross question
- Thread starter desporterizer
- Start date
I think the action just sits in there. I've never heard of fore tip pressure on a Ross...someone else might know?
Ask Hwally...he's been advertising for Ross nose caps for years and I believe rarely gets one.
- Location
- Manitoulin Island
Given that snipers used to cut off the stock ahead of the mid-band, I doubt that any pressure ahead of that was needed.
Check over on milurps dot com. They have a Ross Rifle MANUAL for FREEEEEEEE download. Information really ought to be in that one, if anywhere.
TEXT BOOK OF SMALL ARMS - 1909 has a supplementary chapter at the END of the book, dealing with the Ross Rifle Mark II. It shows, but does not comment upon, a distinct bearing surface about 2 inches long, extending from the front edge of the Stock, to a point about half an inch behind the rear edge of the Nose Cap. There also appears to be a damping point in the fore-end directly beneath the Barrel Band. This damping-point is only about half an inch long but it is definitely THERE.
The long and somwhat flimsy fore-end wood of the Ross would have made difficulties in keeping the bedding/damping constant in an extremely "damp" environment such as the Front. I do not blame the snipers one little bit for hacking the thin part of the fore-ends from their rifles. At least, this would have floated the barrels; a consistent NO damping likely would have proven better than part-time VARIABLE damping.
I have a couple of "stripped" Rosses here with good bores. Range time coming up, it looks like. See just how good they really were.......
Hope this helps.
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TEXT BOOK OF SMALL ARMS - 1909 has a supplementary chapter at the END of the book, dealing with the Ross Rifle Mark II. It shows, but does not comment upon, a distinct bearing surface about 2 inches long, extending from the front edge of the Stock, to a point about half an inch behind the rear edge of the Nose Cap. There also appears to be a damping point in the fore-end directly beneath the Barrel Band. This damping-point is only about half an inch long but it is definitely THERE.
The long and somwhat flimsy fore-end wood of the Ross would have made difficulties in keeping the bedding/damping constant in an extremely "damp" environment such as the Front. I do not blame the snipers one little bit for hacking the thin part of the fore-ends from their rifles. At least, this would have floated the barrels; a consistent NO damping likely would have proven better than part-time VARIABLE damping.
I have a couple of "stripped" Rosses here with good bores. Range time coming up, it looks like. See just how good they really were.......
Hope this helps.
.
When I did the bedding on one of my sportered Mark IIIs, I did the action solid, floated the barrel and put in a pressure point at the front of the half-stock.
That is the one that I have the humpin' huge scope on.
It shoots 1 MOA all the time.
Must have done SOMETHING right.
Hope this helps.
.
That is the one that I have the humpin' huge scope on.
It shoots 1 MOA all the time.
Must have done SOMETHING right.
Hope this helps.
.
Just realised that you are working with either an original Sporter or something approaching one. I can be REALLY dumb at times!
My FACTORY .303 M-10 Sporter has a barrel-band which holds the barrel down to the stock, forward tip of this just ONE inch abaft the fore-end tip. This is what the sling-swivel attaches onto.
The barrel has DEFINITELY been bearing against the wood forward of this band; it shows every evidence of barrel vibrations working against it.
I used a straight-edge and measured this all up. The wood between this BAND and the FORWARD TIP of the Stock stands about .010" HIGHER than the barrel-channel between the Chamber and this Band.
So I would say that the Ross Sporters definitely had a forward bearing-point, just a little over 1 inch long, at the front of the Forestock.
Hope this (at last) answers your question.
As to a front Band, get your hands on an Inner Band from an SMLE. They are just about the same size and it should be possible to mod one to work on the Ross. Just remember that the SMLE band has Enfield threads, so you will need the right Screw; the Ross has all US threads. You will need to lower the profile of the finished Band; the Ross ones were quite low to the Barrel and tapered down nicely, very thin at both ends. If the SMLE Band needs to be stretched, you can do this with a series of tapered inserts, same way a Jeweller does to a ring. Heat the thing and leave it dead-soft, do your work and then reharden.
Good luck with the New Girl!
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My FACTORY .303 M-10 Sporter has a barrel-band which holds the barrel down to the stock, forward tip of this just ONE inch abaft the fore-end tip. This is what the sling-swivel attaches onto.
The barrel has DEFINITELY been bearing against the wood forward of this band; it shows every evidence of barrel vibrations working against it.
I used a straight-edge and measured this all up. The wood between this BAND and the FORWARD TIP of the Stock stands about .010" HIGHER than the barrel-channel between the Chamber and this Band.
So I would say that the Ross Sporters definitely had a forward bearing-point, just a little over 1 inch long, at the front of the Forestock.
Hope this (at last) answers your question.
As to a front Band, get your hands on an Inner Band from an SMLE. They are just about the same size and it should be possible to mod one to work on the Ross. Just remember that the SMLE band has Enfield threads, so you will need the right Screw; the Ross has all US threads. You will need to lower the profile of the finished Band; the Ross ones were quite low to the Barrel and tapered down nicely, very thin at both ends. If the SMLE Band needs to be stretched, you can do this with a series of tapered inserts, same way a Jeweller does to a ring. Heat the thing and leave it dead-soft, do your work and then reharden.
Good luck with the New Girl!
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Are you talking about the lower "mid" band? They are a lot easier to find than the nose caps.
BTW, great info Smellie!
The "band" that I am talking about has an inner diameter about .003" more than that of the barrel which passes through it at that point. This is why I suggested stealing an Inner Band from the SMLE parts-bin: just about the same size.
You will have more fun doing this with a "sportered" Ross: the commercial barrels were very light in comparison to a military tube.
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You will have more fun doing this with a "sportered" Ross: the commercial barrels were very light in comparison to a military tube.
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