Im having trouble removing me 10/22 front sight. Does it matter if it goes from left to right or right to left? I have worked up to hitting it fairly hard and it doesnt look like its going to move? Any tricks to this? Am I going to have to cut it in half to remove it?
10/22 front sight removal
- Thread starter thedecline
- Start date
Wham-o is bang-on. If the rifle is free to move (or cushioned) AT ALL, the sight won't move. I placed my barrel across a 2X4 with a single layer of cotton between them to protect the bluing, then used a brass rod and a stout hammer. It will take a SHARP rap to get it moving, but once it does, it'll tap out easy.
- Location
- Keswick ON
Ahhhhh, the old righty tighty, leftie loosie is still alive and kickin.
Ruger has taken to putting a detent on the bottom of the sight that fits into a shallow depression on the dovetail of the base.
You can still drive the front sight off with a punch and a hammer but a sight pusher will work better, and it will take a good hard twist to push it off with one.
I have a cheap bench vise on a firm workbench, with the jaws protected by self-adhesive felt normally used to protect floors from furniture. Brass punch, or steel punch covered with a .22 casing, a few firm taps and out it comes. You can file one side of the punch flat if you want to increase stability and contact area.
The key is to make sure that the barrel cannot move when you drive the sight out. You want the energy of the hammer to move the sight in the slot, not the barrel in the vise or the bench.
The key is to make sure that the barrel cannot move when you drive the sight out. You want the energy of the hammer to move the sight in the slot, not the barrel in the vise or the bench.
