Newbie reloading questions (I searched!)

nullshine

nullshine

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
10   0   0
Location
Calgary, AB
Ok, I can't quite find an answer to a couple questions I have.

First of all:

Lee Challenger 50th Anniversary Kit
Lee 7.62x39mm dies
Winchester brass

1st Question:
The brass is new, and I've found information that says it's a good idea to run it through your sizing dies (despite being new). Fair enough. When I'm sizing the brass, on the upstroke, should the shellholder touch the bottom of the die?

Mine isn't, it's probably about 0.080" away from touching. When it gets that far in, the press seems to lock up solid, no matter how much more force I apply, it doesn't move anywhere.

I did check the brass length and trim with the lockstud/cutter/case length gauge first.

2nd Question:
Using the included Lee case lube (in the toothpaste style tube), they recommend to put a small amount inside the neck while sizing. Makes sense. I'm wiping a very thin film of it inside the neck with a Q-Tip. What do I do with it afterwards? Is that going to contaminate the powder when I charge the case? Or do I not worry about it?

(I am thinking about using graphite powder and a small cup of shot to lube the inside of the case necks in the future, but I'd like to use up the Lee lube. Waste not, want not and all that jazz.)

Thanks for any help the gurus can provide!
 
As for the lube (I use the same stuff), After wiping a small amount on the shell/neck I put just a small minut bit of lube inside the neck(I don`t mees with q-tips and I don`t bother making sure its covering every surface inside the neck.
When I`m done depriming/fl sizing, I wipe the exterior, I chamfer the neck, clean primer pocket then I tumble. The tumble media usually takes care of any lube inside the case.
As for the press itself. I make sure the shell holder touches the die than I give the die an additional 1/4-1/3 turn in. If it still seems to lock up, check the hinge on the press handle itself to make sure it isn`t binding.
 
Thanks for your reply, darcy.

Ok, I tried it again. Managed to get the shellholder touching the die this time. I think I'm going to need to strengthen my bench! It just seemed like something was wrong, considering how easily it went for the first 37mm or so, the last couple mm takes a lot more force.

The question about the lube still remains, however. I'm not tumbling cases. These are new cases, will be kept clean. And it's not like I'm going to find any 7.62x39mm brass at a range/gravel pit to pick up. It's also small quantity, so any cleaning, if necessary, can be done by hand.

I guess the real question is: Do I need to clean the lube out of the neck, or not? It's an extremely minimal amount. You can't even see it. I put a tiny amount of lube on a Q-Tip, swipe it over the outside of the case, and then with whatever remains on the Q-Tip I swirl that on the inside of the neck.

EDIT: On the tube it says it's wax-based. I've seen where others have mentioned that wax based lubes won't affect powders, whereas oil-based can cause problems. Can anyone confirm this with the Lee lube?
 
Q#1:
Are you sure your die is adjusted properly according to the manufacturer's specs? (read the little pamphlet that comes with your dies) Back your die most of the way out, run your ram all the way up and then screw in the die until it contacts the shell holder then screw in another quarter turn. Do this without a case in the press.

Q#2:
Lee Case lube is perfectly safe to leave residue in your case.
 
Regarding Lee case lube: I have found that you don't need to wipe it out of the case mouth. This is why I use it for that purpose. Other lubes need to be wiped out with a little piece of toilet paper before pouring the powder. However, you don't need to worry about this with the Lee lube -- a real bonus.

FYI, you should always lube the inside of the neck before resizing. It makes a difference on the upstroke. Using a Q-tip is the classic way to do this job.
 
http://youtu.be/RQNz2ie5H5U
At 8:03 he explains the setting of the die. On my Lee 50th kit, it calls for an additional 1/4-1/3turn of the die. I use the oil in my gun claening kit and oil the shaft of the press and hinge points to make it operate smoothly. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for all the replies, especially about the lube. I was worried about contaminating the charge. Glad to hear I won't have to clean it out.

As far as the dies, I followed the Lee instructions.

Raised the ram, screwed the die in until it touches the shell holder, dropped the ram and then screwed in the die an additional 1/3rd turn.

I'm thinking I can chock this one up to inexperience, and a lack of confidence in how this stuff works. It just seemed like the force was excessive for the last couple mm of sizing. I think it's the expander ball getting close to the shoulder of the case (I'm thinking the closer to the shoulder it gets, the stronger the case is in that area, so the more force it takes).

I've already got a solution to stiffen up my bench. :)
 
nullshine, I'm kinda curious as to where you got the advice to full-length size new brass?

I understand that most new brass now comes in plastic bags, so it's pretty easy to dent the neck of the brass. I was told never to full-length resize new brass, just run the expander over the dented area of the neck.
 
shredder said:
nullshine, I'm kinda curious as to where you got the advice to full-length size new brass?

I understand that most new brass now comes in plastic bags, so it's pretty easy to dent the neck of the brass. I was told never to full-length resize new brass, just run the expander over the dented area of the neck.
Click to expand...

Can't remember if there was a thread on here, or somewhere else.

As you say, my brass does come in plastic bags, and some of the necks look more pentagonal than round. :)

I can't remember if the advice I found was specific to 7.62x39 or not, however in my situation I'm reloading with .310 bullets, and by the looks of things, even if the necks were round, I wouldn't be able to get a .310 bullet in there without running the expander into it all the way (and therefore full-length sizing it).

So I guess now I'm wondering what the rationale is in the recommendation to not size new brass? I can't imagine it would cause any problems, might just work the brass one more time.

I'm interested in gaining all the points of view I can, though.
 
nullshine said:
Can't remember if there was a thread on here, or somewhere else.

As you say, my brass does come in plastic bags, and some of the necks look more pentagonal than round. :)

I can't remember if the advice I found was specific to 7.62x39 or not, however in my situation I'm reloading with .310 bullets, and by the looks of things, even if the necks were round, I wouldn't be able to get a .310 bullet in there without running the expander into it all the way (and therefore full-length sizing it).

So I guess now I'm wondering what the rationale is in the recommendation to not size new brass? I can't imagine it would cause any problems, might just work the brass one more time.

I'm interested in gaining all the points of view I can, though.
Click to expand...

Well, what I was told is this:

We don't know whether the reamer that made the die (and chamber) was at minimum or maximum spec. Like all cutting tools, the reamer wears slightly with each use. That means that if you have a chamber reamed with a reamer that is at or close to max spec, and a die cut with a reamer at or close to minimum spec, the case may fit loosely into the chamber.

When you fire the round, if the situation is as noted above, the brass may be worked to the point where severe stretching of the brass occurs (if you see a shiny ring on the brass, that's likely what happened). Brass stretched badly enough may not be usable for more than one firing. Kind of a waste of expensive brass, no?

The way I was told to avoid this is to just size the neck by running the expander ball into the brass only deep enough to fix any dents in the neck.
 
shredder said:
Well, what I was told is this:

We don't know whether the reamer that made the die (and chamber) was at minimum or maximum spec. Like all cutting tools, the reamer wears slightly with each use. That means that if you have a chamber reamed with a reamer that is at or close to max spec, and a die cut with a reamer at or close to minimum spec, the case may fit loosely into the chamber.

When you fire the round, if the situation is as noted above, the brass may be worked to the point where severe stretching of the brass occurs (if you see a shiny ring on the brass, that's likely what happened). Brass stretched badly enough may not be usable for more than one firing. Kind of a waste of expensive brass, no?

The way I was told to avoid this is to just size the neck by running the expander ball into the brass only deep enough to fix any dents in the neck.
Click to expand...

Ok, so big chamber plus small FL sizing die = large stretch range on the brass.

Makes sense.

But if that's the case, then I can't FL size at all with those dies, and that gun. Which means I either get a new gun, or new dies, and a couple of pieces of brass to find that out doesn't mean much anyways. (As long as it doesn't blow up in my face).

Thing is, I'm reloading for a semi-auto (Russian SKS), so, the way I understand it, I NEED to FL size anyway. If I were to reload for a bolt action, I would guess I'd just neck size.

Seems to me the big chamber/small FL sizing die situation would be an issue on new brass, old brass and everything in between, regardless. Unless I'm not understanding you correctly?

Dunno, I'm just a noob trying to understand.
 
Semi's need fl resize but you neet to lube exterior of cases. it is posible to get a case stuck in the die if not lubed.
 
If you're a visual kind of guy go on YouTube and search for iraqveteran8888 and find his seies of videos on the Lee 50th Anniversary kit.
He goes through the complete reloading processfrom setting up the press to making completed rounds.

As far as the force required increasing at the end of the stroke it is because this is the point where the shoulder is being bumped back and the area near the base of the case which is not annealed is getting sized. when you go to buy more lube look for either Imperial Sizing Wax which is the absolute best or Hornady Unique which comes a close second.

I've probably sized close to 4,000 cases with my 4oz tub of unique and it's still over 3/4 full which tells you that no matter how much you spend on a good lube it's well worth it.

As far as not finding anything using the search feature, it's because the default search is set for 1 week.
 
Thanks for the info about the shoulder being pushed back, and the base not being annealed, that makes sense.

As far as the Imperial Sizing Wax, I put some on order this afternoon. :)

Watched iraqveteran8888's videos before I even had my press delivered.

I know about the default search time period, and always change it. It's just hard to find answers to specific questions/situations when you're sifting through lots of threads that seem like they might hold the answers, but when you reach the end of them, they don't.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom