maximum adjustment and still not quite on target.

ADHDCanuck

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Hey, ok so the guy at the shop says one of my scope rings is just backwards, but I thought I would put it up here for discussion.

I sighted in my rifle at a 40 yard range (phoenix, i'm in edmonton) and my savage mako 17HMR is a dead accurate naildriver. at that range i could dot your I's.

problem is I was leading, adjusting my target point.. with the elevation and windage adjusted, i was shooting just about 1 inch to the right at 40 yards with the windage knob adjusted to its maximum one way.

I was having fun, put 250 rounds through it just because it was my first time out with that gun and it was a blast.

groupings so small on several i had 2 or 3 rounds through the same hole on the target, emptying the 5 round factory mags into the same spot. consistent... but always that 1 inch to the right of the crosshairs.

so what do you all say... flip one of the sight rings and go again?
 
just for colour, i bought the rifle through here, the seller is a competition pistol shooter, the rifle is very well cared for and the scope is in new condition, bushnell banner, link below
http://www.bushnell.com/products/scopes/riflescopes/banner/716185/?CFID=35603061&CFTOKEN=4682bc0d22636c0-CB08C7F2-D374-0C7A-6164128E7128DB48&


at 40 yards this thing can read business cards, on the bipod in the range environment its basically impossible to not put a round exactly where you want it...

well... 1 inch right of where you want it i guess lol
 
It very well could make a difference, I have reversed both rings to zero a gun closer to my center of adjustments. As for shooting indoors at 40 yards, I would expect very tight groups.
 
i almost felt bad, effortlessly shooting like that, but it was cold out i wasnt gonna go do it outside somewhere i could reach out and touch something 150 yards away.

would like to repeat the performance on longer ranges once weather permits and my ammo order arrives. 17hmr is not cheap.
unless its from clay at prophet :) <3
 
A lot of inexpensive guns have barrels that are not perfectly parallel with the receiver, or the scope mounts. You can often see this easily by sighting down the top of the gun or scope. You can sometimes correct it by switching front and rear rings, or reversing one ring right-to-left, which looks pretty goofy. There are also rings like Milletts, which allow you adjust for windage by loosening and tightening opposing mounting screws. Whatever you do, it would be a good idea to lightly lap the bottoms of the rings to prevent stressing the mounted scope.

You may also notice that your scope is even clearer and sharper when you are looking through the middle of the lens instead of the extreme edge.
 
I wouldn't buy the story that a single ring needs to be flipped. If you flip just one ring, then the misalignment will be to the OTHER side of center. The only way to tell is to check the ring alignment directly.

I'd do a re-mount of the scope from scratch. Make sure you return the scope to zero before re-mounting. Remove the rings and bases, scrub everything down, and check for anything wonky like loctite buildup or damage to mating surfaces. Install your mounts (return windage-adjustable rings to zero) and check your ring alignment. A smith should have a precise tool to do it, but you can get a good approximation by using a long 1" dowel clamped in the rings (check the symmetry of the dowel first, eh!). Check the rings for alignment with each another, and then check them together for alignment with the barrel. Could reveal a mounting problem or a defect with your receiver, base, or rings. If that looks good, install the scope and bore sight it. If you run into the same windage problem, use Burris rings with the alignment shim kit that maynard mentioned. It's also possible that there are misaligned alignment shims inside the rings already.
 
I wouldn't buy the story that a single ring needs to be flipped. If you flip just one ring, then the misalignment will be to the OTHER side of center. The only way to tell is to check the ring alignment directly.

I'd do a re-mount of the scope from scratch. Make sure you return the scope to zero before re-mounting. Remove the rings and bases, scrub everything down, and check for anything wonky like loctite buildup or damage to mating surfaces. Install your mounts (return windage-adjustable rings to zero) and check your ring alignment. A smith should have a precise tool to do it, but you can get a good approximation by using a long 1" dowel clamped in the rings (check the symmetry of the dowel first, eh!). Check the rings for alignment with each another, and then check them together for alignment with the barrel. Could reveal a mounting problem or a defect with your receiver, base, or rings. If that looks good, install the scope and bore sight it. If you run into the same windage problem, use Burris rings with the alignment shim kit that maynard mentioned. It's also possible that there are misaligned alignment shims inside the rings already.

wow that is fantastic. thanks!!

i went down to phoenix on my birthday yesterday and talked to them.
I reset the scope to zero, removed it, flipped both sets of rings around, and remounted it. they have those braces for the rifle, and helped me adjust it level and straight.... showed me how to find level on the scope and square it.

I am now putting three through the same hole pretty near... right dead on the crosshairs almost every time... the windage is adjusted about 80% and shoots dead on, instead of having it at 100% just to get it to fire 1 inch to the right.

thats pretty good.

It was tricky cuz of the mako stock, the cheekpiece is so high you cant stare down the barrel with the bolt removed, so no cheating for a rough square...

Is that close enough or should I be picking up the bushing/shim kit mentioned and going for closer?
 
Is that close enough or should I be picking up the bushing/shim kit mentioned and going for closer?

Since you confirmed the ring alignment, etc., it's probably an issue with your scope. If I were to do anything I would contact the manufacturer and ask if they will warranty it. But that might mean doing without a scope while they check it. If POA is POI, then there's really no functional issue. BUT, check that the crosshairs aren't loose - If you give the scope a 'gentle knock' and the POI moves, then you've got a problem that requires replacement (hopefully under warranty).

The other issue is if you start shooting at longer ranges and need to adjust your scope zero again: Sometimes on cheaper scopes, when you are adjusting out at the limits of the scope adjustment range, the adjustment dials work poorly. For example, if you go ten clicks up and then ten clicks back down, you won't be in the same place. Having the zero as close as possible to the middle of the scope's adjustment range is ideal. The shims would help in this case. But then you're looking at new rings as well... And then there's the farting around getting the right shim size, and rotated to the right position within the rings...
 
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