new barrel for stevens 200

roseau river rat

roseau river rat

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ok say i want to put a heavier target barrel on a stevens 200.
it has the regular sporting 22 inch barrel on it right now in .223
this is probably not going to happen right away but i was wondering exactly how to do it.
so i know the barrel threads on and i need a barrel wrench to remove the old one and then install the new barrel.
now what im not sure of is how do you know how far to thread it on before locking it in place?
how do i measure the headspace? is that the right terminology?
i will be researching how to do it online but i thought i would ask here also.
thanks.
 
Tagged for interest cause I'm looking to do the same thing, same gun and same caliber oddly enough. I would imagine mystic precision will jump in at some point with knowledge. Thats where I intend on getting a new barrel from and i've been told that Jerry knows whats up with these guns.
 
The Barrel Nut on a savage (or stevens) is really just a fancy lock nut. You will need a wrench that fits it as well as something to hold the barrel from turning while you loosen or tighten the nut. While you can buy an expensive vise built for this purpose I would suggest simply using 2 hard wood blocks with V channels and a couple of big C clamps. And a sturdy bench to clamp it too. :)

You also may or may not need a go gauge. I can be corrected on this but my impression is a go gauge is the easy way to go but you may end up with a little more head-space than is ideal for a precision rifle. Setting head-space with a piece of sized brass filled with epoxy (so it cant be crushed) is another way to go and allows minimum head-space to be set for the specific brass you are reloading. While rare it seems that sometimes this method can lead to problems chambering factory ammunition. However, with a barrel nut it is not hard to simply give yourself slightly more space if you encounter this problem.

Savage-Barreled-Action-in-Vise1-400x346.jpg




This is a good guide with various different options and more detail on headspace, it is also where i pulled the homemade vise picture from.

http://www.westernshooter.com/2009/12/how-to-build-or-rebarrel-savage-rifle.html
 
Tagged up too! I want to put a 7-08 or .308 barrel on my savage 11 in .243. Should be easy enough to switch any short action chambering based on the .308 case, same bolt face.
I think I read something on Savage's website about threading the barrel on till it just contacts the bolt face, then locking with the barrel nut. Of course, that's speaking of a barrel with no iron sights.
 
I have always used a go and no go gauge. They are 0.004" (if I recall correctly) difference in length and when the action closes on a go gauge, but not a no go, you are within safe operating headspace limits.

as far as how far to thread the barrel in, most people recommend to remove the firing pin and ejector to save false resistance....

anyway... essentially you just start to thread your barrel into the action, "chamber" your head space gauge, which ever you are using and thread until the barrel chamber makes contact. This is a very simplified explanation but it is the long and the short of it. This is why I've always used a no-go as well. Depending on how much resistance you have in closing the bolt on your headspace marker to make sure the no go still will not close. I figure for an additional $27 its better to be certain than sorry.
 
caper587 said:
Tagged up too! I want to put a 7-08 or .308 barrel on my savage 11 in .243. Should be easy enough to switch any short action chambering based on the .308 case, same bolt face.
I think I read something on Savage's website about threading the barrel on till it just contacts the bolt face, then locking with the barrel nut. Of course, that's speaking of a barrel with no iron sights.
Click to expand...

on a 308 you can easily go to (for standard calibers anyway not counting wild cats or odd ball ones) 243, 260, 7-08, 308, 22-250, 220 Swift...
 
wow great info!
ok so the go no go guage is basicaly a dummy round that gives you a little extra clearance say 4 thou or so? or?
also whats the point of removing the firing pin and extractor? that part i dont get.
can someone post a pic of this guage?
im sure i can find a pic online somewhere but if someone has one handy.
also, where can i buy one?
thanks
 
roseau river rat said:
wow great info!
ok so the go no go guage is basicaly a dummy round that gives you a little extra clearance say 4 thou or so? or?
also whats the point of removing the firing pin and extractor? that part i dont get.
can someone post a pic of this guage?
im sure i can find a pic online somewhere but if someone has one handy.
also, where can i buy one?
thanks
Click to expand...

The go gauge is a dummy round of the correct length to allow you to chamber SAAMI spec factory ammo. The no-go gauge is another dummy gauge that is longer (in this case ~0.004"). If you can close the bolt on the no-go gauge, you have too much headspace and need to spin the barrel in a bit more.

The ejector and firing pin are removed so you can accurately guage how much force is needed to close the bolt on the headspace gauges. My understanding is you want it set with LIGHT resistance (as in very light fingertip pressure) to closing on the go gauge in order to have it not close on the no-go gauge.

I will be finding out this year sometime when I install a new fast twist 22-250 barrel on my 12FV action.


Mark
 
caper587 said:
sorry, didn't mean to sound like a pr!ck. :redface:
Click to expand...

I should have started my post with "I agree" sorry bout that!


roseau river rat: You can buy go/no/go gauges from Mystic Precision, North Shore Barrels and most likely several other retailers.

You are not changing calibers are you? Staying with 223 correct?
 
You can get a pre-threaded and chambered barrel from Jerry at Mystic Precision as mentioned above and he is great to deal with. A member here Winchester_070 is a dealer for Pacific tool and gauge and can get you the gauges at reasonable cost. If you are not making a switch barrel rifle it might be cheaper to have a smith fit the pre-threaded and pre-chambered barrel for you as any smith would have the gauges for a 223.
 
cosmic said:
Well - Headspacing issues aside, you're going to have to hog out the stock to accommodate the new barrel. This can be quite challenging/time consuming.
Click to expand...

Since you're spending the $ on a new barrel, I very much agree with cosmic, and would suggest looking at also upgrading the stock.
 
Well - You're still going to be doing a lot of barrel channel hogging with a boyds, and you may as well go for glass bedding. I agree with the comment above - its likely a 1/2 hour job for a smith to fit the barrel to the action - too boot, I'm not sure you can depend on the internet to compensate for your lack of experience.
Try your hand at fitting and finishing the stock - that can be quite rewarding!
 
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