to lube or not to lube (9mm)

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basicbill

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Well, I'm starting my reloading efforts. I bought a Lee turret press....but I'm using it as a single for the first little bit until I get comfortable with each stage.

I've been decapping and re-sizing 9mm luger brass (after they've been cleaned) and I notice that some are remarkably hard to push all the way.

Others are remarkably easy.

I know that many reloaders use lube on their brass during re-sizing but I thought pistol sized brass didn't really require it.

I have no problem putting in an extra step if needed.

Does anyone (or everyone) lube their 9mm pistol brass?
 
The question is: are you using standard or carbide dies? If carbide no lube is necessary. If you have standard dies lube em so you don't get a stuck case
 
I use a carbide sizer. If the bras is clean, I just size. if it is a bit grungy, I put it in a pail and smear a little Lee lube around the inside of the pail and give it a swirl. This lightly lubes the cases. they all size much easier.


After they are loaded, I tumble for 30 mins to clean up.
 
Ganderite said:
I use a carbide sizer. If the bras is clean, I just size. if it is a bit grungy, I put it in a pail and smear a little Lee lube around the inside of the pail and give it a swirl. This lightly lubes the cases. they all size much easier.


After they are loaded, I tumble for 30 mins to clean up.
Click to expand...

I read you have to clean the lube off before charging them... Do you di this as well or just once they are loaded?

I am just starting to reload with steel dies (50ae is too expensive in carbide) and am curious if I should worry about cleaning the lube off right away...
 
take notice of the head stamp, i notice that when i zise 9mm brass, and many other calibers for this matter, sellior and bellot (S&B) give trouble, they also give trouble in seating a new primer


if you have a rather large brass supply maybe just pick out the brand of brass that gives you trouble
 
stuff like the lee lube in the tube which is wax based and the hornady spray on (I use both) dont contaminate powders or primers. So this means you cna lube them, load them and clean them up via tumbler after.

I run carbide dies for 9mm and .40 and I dont usually lube them, but I do find it makes the stroke smoother when I do.
 
floriosean1 said:
take notice of the head stamp, i notice that when i zise 9mm brass, and many other calibers for this matter, sellior and bellot (S&B) give trouble, they also give trouble in seating a new primer


if you have a rather large brass supply maybe just pick out the brand of brass that gives you trouble
Click to expand...

Funny you say that because 90% of my 9mm brass is S&B and I have never run into trouble reloading with it and I have loaded thousands of rounds using it.

Not saying your wrong or anything just saying I have never had any trouble personally.
 
Carbide dies, but I find an occasional spray on top of a bucket of brass makes everything much smoother. Nothing fancy, just a little squirt every few hundred rounds. And nothing to remove/clean /wipe afterwards.
 
basicbill said:
Well, I'm starting my reloading efforts. I bought a Lee turret press....but I'm using it as a single for the first little bit until I get comfortable with each stage.

I've been decapping and re-sizing 9mm luger brass (after they've been cleaned) and I notice that some are remarkably hard to push all the way.

Others are remarkably easy.

I know that many reloaders use lube on their brass during re-sizing but I thought pistol sized brass didn't really require it.

I have no problem putting in an extra step if needed.

Does anyone (or everyone) lube their 9mm pistol brass?
Click to expand...

Off topic but I am just starting with Lee as well. I have the turret press. I did set it up and made some bullets but am going to pull them. I am really leery about that scale. Seems impossible to zero. I used the powder loader disk .37 with title group powder and it is looking to come out at 4 grains as opposed to the 4.4 which the manual says. That's ok but every time I measure it the number is different. I have the scale level etc but it is just picky. So I am just going to mess around and make practice rounds until I feel comfortable. How is your powder loading going?
Cheers
 
I was going to start with 3.6 grains if titegroup on a 124 grain copper jacketed bullet.
My scale is easy to zero and nails it every time.

I did 10 throws and weighed....came up to 36 grains!
 
basicbill said:
I was going to start with 3.6 grains if titegroup on a 124 grain copper jacketed bullet.
My scale is easy to zero and nails it every time.

I did 10 throws and weighed....came up to 36 grains!
Click to expand...

the average isnt always accurate. you could have been plus or minus on a few of them.
 
Beegwally said:
Off topic but I am just starting with Lee as well. I have the turret press. I did set it up and made some bullets but am going to pull them. I am really leery about that scale. Seems impossible to zero. I used the powder loader disk .37 with title group powder and it is looking to come out at 4 grains as opposed to the 4.4 which the manual says. That's ok but every time I measure it the number is different. I have the scale level etc but it is just picky. So I am just going to mess around and make practice rounds until I feel comfortable. How is your powder loading going?
Cheers
Click to expand...

I have had the same type of issue with the Lee auto disks when using different powders... for 9mm I use Tite Group and the weights come out pretty close but when loading my .45 with Unique the measurements are way off from the data sheet.

I have the beam type scale and a $200 electronic scale and TBH the beam is a little more of a pain but if set up right it is extremely accurate.
 
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