How do you remove the crimp on mil primer pockets?

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Kryogen

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I got a crapload of crimped 223 brass and some 9mm...

Whats the easiest way to remove the crimp for both 223 and 9mm?
I dont have a dillon press so nothing that requires such a press please.

Reaming seems unrealiable to me?
Maybe a crimp removing die with a punch, I dont know?

Thanks
 
9mm and 223 are both small primers.... If I remeber correctly, they are teh same diameter.

BTW, to answer your original question, I've used a Lyman primer pocket reamer (only chamfers off the crimp)....
 
I used the Hornady tools and chucked the reamers up in my cordless drill. I can do about 100 per hour pretty easy. The cutters are set to the correct depth and just ream off the crimp ring.

I use it mainly for the occasional LC 7.62 x 51 and WCC 9mm NATO brass I run across but have done large batches in the past. Its also great for cleaning up those tight primer pockets found on some foreign made brass.
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Other options and more expensive.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/880694/rcbs-ammomaster-single-stage-press-primer-pocket-swager-combo

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319662/rcbs-bench-mounted-primer-pocket-swager

http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600
 
I have sat in my reloading room for several days eyeballing a bag of several thousand 5.56 IVI cases with a Lyman hand crimp removal tool infront of me... It's a very daunting task!!... Then I reasoned with myself... If I'm going to feed semi auto rifles mass amounts of ammo and I have went as far as to invest in a progressive press I may as well go the extra little bit and get a Dillon Swager... I can burn thru 100 cases in under 10min with it... Money very well spent.
 
OK, time for the screaming and wailing to begin.

Are you a wood worker/metal worker????

Do you have a battery operated hand drill??

Do you have a counter sink bit???

If you don't have the hand drill you're out of luck.

If you do have a hand drill, a counter sink bit cost around $5 at CTire.

Chuck up the counter sink and proceed to remove the crimp. After the first couple, you will get a feel for how much is enough.

The hand drill, is a lot easier on the fingers and wrists. It's also a lot faster.

Yes, it's safe and easy to do. I've done thousands of military crimped cases.
 
I have the RCBS Swage die set that goes in a normal press, and I also have the Lyman reamers that I run in a drill. If I happened into a 1000 brass with crimps again I would buy the Dillon on the other members here's recommendation.
 
I have the Dillon Super Swager for 223 and use a standard debur tool for 50bmg and larger. I have had little luck with pocket reamers (which I do use to uniform the primer pockets) when used to increase seating reliability.

The Dillon works well on a military crimp, but less so on a lighter law enforcement crimp (the low cost mechanical punch to the brass) which leaves this brass highly sensitive to primer brand when used in a high speed progressive setting.
 
hk33ka1 said:
I have the RCBS Swage die set that goes in a normal press, and I also have the Lyman reamers that I run in a drill. If I happened into a 1000 brass with crimps again I would buy the Dillon on the other members here's recommendation.
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X2....The RCBS might be a little slower but it does a fine job. I have done many hundreds if not thousands with it and I like the finished product the best, over all the reamers I've used. Never used the Dillon, can't comment.
 
If you're going to shell out for the Dillon swager, may as well look at Lyman's motorized case prep center. It'll ream pockets, uniform pockets, debur/chamfer/clean case mouths and debur primer holes. I think you can still get them for around 135 bux. Hell of a unit for the price.
 
bearhunter said:
OK, time for the screaming and wailing to begin.

Are you a wood worker/metal worker????

Do you have a battery operated hand drill??

Do you have a counter sink bit???

If you don't have the hand drill you're out of luck.

If you do have a hand drill, a counter sink bit cost around $5 at CTire.

Chuck up the counter sink and proceed to remove the crimp. After the first couple, you will get a feel for how much is enough.

The hand drill, is a lot easier on the fingers and wrists. It's also a lot faster.

Yes, it's safe and easy to do. I've done thousands of military crimped cases.
Click to expand...

I have the RCBS and the Dillon, but what bearhunter said is probably the best method. The Dillon is great, but I still need to chamfer the primer pockets to remove burrs, so why not just chamfer?

If you use bearhunter's method, it's not critical how deep you go (within reason), but you can set up a jig to hold the brass vertical (hole drilled in a 2X4) and on a drill press, set a stop depth.
 
I depends if the OP is asking how to remove the primer that is crimped in, or how to remove the crimp after the primer is removed.

The above fine CGN members have made excellent comments on how to remove the crimp after the primer is removed.

If you are asking the best to remove crimed in primers I suggest a cheap Lee press and a universal decapping die:

Press: http://leeprecision.com/reloader-press.html

Die: http://leeprecision.com/decapping-die.html

This allows you to abuse a cheap set-up removing those crimped primers instead of your nice press.
 
HKMark23 said:
If you're going to shell out for the Dillon swager, may as well look at Lyman's motorized case prep center. It'll ream pockets, uniform pockets, debur/chamfer/clean case mouths and debur primer holes. I think you can still get them for around 135 bux. Hell of a unit for the price.
Click to expand...

Do you own one of these? I bought one and what a piece of sh!t, it doesn't align properly and there is way to much play in the slide. I tried to contact Lyman 3 times but never a return call. Maybe I got a lemon but won't be buying any more Lyman stuff, given their superb customer service.
 
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