Reloading 338 lapua

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wigglenator

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Gentlemen,

I am looking for some sage advice regarding getting a setup.

I just purchased a rather sweet Sako TRG42 in 338 lapua. I bought 100 rounds of S&B to get me started but from reading online it sounds like reloading is the way to go.

I have no setup currently and want to know what some experienced guys suggest for a setup. I made the error of going cheap on my initial rifles, then upgrading then upgrading again. I don't shoot a ton maybe ~250 rounds a year.

So...

1) do you think it is worth reloading...in terms of cost to setup AND are hand reloads that much better.
2) what setup should I get...I probably wouldnt bother reloading other calibres...but I want a good setup not something I will just upgrade and forget in two months. (please suggest presses, scales etc)
3) does the quality of the brass/projectiles make a huge difference or can I simply reload the SB 338 I bought?

cheers
 
Its not hard to reload by any means but there is a learning curve. Over time you learn how to make better ammunition. Finding a perfect load for a rifle may or may not happen over night.

If your serious about reloading I would suggest you reload for your other calibers too. At the minimum it will speed you along the learning curve.

As for kit, buy a Redding neck bushing die set. They are about $160. Buy 100 lapua brass around $280. Pick a press, a scale and a manual, watch some you tube videos and bobs your uncle. You could reuse your S&B ammo brass. I would if I had 100.

Oh and please post a pic of the rifle.
 
"going cheap", and .338LM, doesn't compute. Going to get spendy to experience that awesome performance.

I don't own that particular cal., can't afford it, but have touched a few of 'em off.

It depends on what you intend to achieve with your TRG.

If it's just a mild flirtation, buy factory loads. (have witnessed the Swiss 250gr FMJ stuff produce more than decent results way out there)
If real repeatable LR precision is the goal, then only handloads will cut the mustard.

For a press, a RCBS rockchucker, or Horn. 007, or Bonanza Co-Ax, will serve most all your needs for a lifetime.

Dies?. I'm partial to Lee collet neck sizers, and Redding BR seaters. With an occasional bump from the Redding Body die. An annealing here and there, and expensive brass lives on and on. And evil runout?, that not so obvious cause of many a LR flier? ... gone. Straight ammo counts, IMO.

Gotta love the RCBS 10/10 balance beam scale.

Pick up a powder measure, set it to throw slightly under, and then trickle up to your charge.

Most guys use the 250gr scenar, or 300gr mk.. Jump or jam?, your rifle will show you what it prefers.
 
Excellent points!

vviking said:
Dies?. I'm partial to Lee collet neck sizers, and Redding BR seaters. With an occasional bump from the Redding Body die. An annealing here and there, and expensive brass lives on and on. And evil runout?, that not so obvious cause of many a LR flier? ... gone. Straight ammo counts, IMO.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately Lee don't make the collet die for 338LM. I use collet dies for 3 other calibers and its an excellent die, IMHO. I was forced ;) to get the Redding Bushing die. I discovered its also an excellent die, similar runout. I'm less than 100 rounds of reloaded 338 old :D but neck OD runout is around 2 thou max and bullet runout around 1 thou max so far. (of the samples I measured). This is on a par or better than I get with my collets.

The bushing dies don't compare price wise but they might be slightly more convenient in terms assuring the same neck tension. Not that I have ever had neck tension problems with my collet dies. But there is more of a nack to collet die use imho. Another 2000 rounds I'l have a more solid oppinion. :)

vviking said:
Gotta love the RCBS 10/10 balance beam scale.
Click to expand...

X2.
 
Lots of good advice. Why guys insist on posting picures of a factory rifle. I can understand a custom rifle that may be unique in some fashion.
 
I picked up a Hornady Lock and load press, with RCBS dies. The LnL is awesome because it has removable collars that you set the dies on, once set if you change caliber you just unlock and remove it without having to re-adjust it (once you start re-loading you will most likely start doing other calibers).
 
Pics

Since you guys took the time to reply...I will take the time to post pics.

I am travelling but on Tuesday I will throw some up.

I got a few PMs as well...seems like most ppl are giving the same advice re equipment.
 
I reload for my .338LM also, I use a Lee press, digital scale, Lapua brass, Redding type S bushing die and the Forester micrometer seating die, oh and the redding body die. The one thing I want that would definatly speed up the loading process is the RCBS Chargemaster combo, from what i've read on here, it's the way to go.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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