Average SKS cleaning time with corrosive ammo

I disassemble my rifle right down to the basic components. I have not taken apart the trigger group yet but I do spray it liberally in Rem Oil and then blast it with my air compressor. Then comes the barrel, I hit that with Hoppes solvent and a brass brush about 12 or 15 maybe 20 passes, whatever it takes. Then a few passes with the Rem Oil spray and the brush. Then swab or patches finishing with a very lightly oiled patch down the bore. The magazine gets a spray with Rem Oil and wipe or air blast. maybe a little q-tip action. Swab and very light oil in the gas tube and gas block. Springs get Rem Oil and Air blast. Bolt gets a solvent scrub with the brass brush and very little oil, only on contact surfaces. Extractor and firing pin comes out if I have shot more than 50-60 rounds. Brake cleaner, air blast, q-tips. If not I hit it with brake cleaner and a scrub then air blast to ensure free movement of the f-p. Reassemble.
Right now I am in the process of getting a Murray's spring firing pin cuz its just a good idea. I have not considered yet the whole boiling water/ammonia thing. I must be old fashioned cuz I can't picture boiling water and guns together. Oil prevents rust. All told maybe an hour or so, depends if I have the TV on or not. Or about two beers:)
 
The Brits have been using boiling water to clean guns since the very conception of Black Powder all the way to past the second war. I would be shocked if the other European countries' armies weren't doing the same. Windex I've tried and ...meh!
I'm old school too so it's 'toddy water' and oil...no rust yet:D
 
NoBark said:
Yea.. well ah.... wait.... You know what? Thats exactly what I mean. I don't want to see skid marks in my underwear as much as I don't want to see rust in the barrel of my guns.
Click to expand...

LOL!!!! Well said. It's not too often you can use the term "skid marks" and sound like you know what you're talking about.
 
762shooter
svt 1940
mg2401

Good to know, Thank you, I purchased one recently. Have fired a few times and cleaned but thought it best to avoid wear on the bolt pin by disassembling as little as possible.
 
Whiskywizard said:
This rookie thanks you.
Click to expand...

Keep this in mind.

Any solvent that can dissolve powder residue/carbon build up is dangerous to your health. Brite-Bore, G96, home made "Ed's Red" etc...all cause damage to your internal organs and are carcinogenic. The better it works the greater care you need to take in handling it. Always wear the appropriate gloves to avoid skin contact. Only use in a well ventilated area.

Safe shooting, safe cleaning.
 
20mins.

Boiling water.
Brass brush scrub with gunzilla, and a shooters choice/kroil combo.
Occasionally I do the foaming bore clean. That takes awhile - but its really just waiting.
 
Ok, so, apparently, I'm a dumbass. I totally forgot about the piston the last time I did a cleaning, and now I can't get the stupid thing to drop out.

What would you all suggest to get it to come out? From all I can see, there's the main hole that the rod goes in, then there's to two smaller holes near the other end. Is there another hole to be able to push it out?
 
qjdb said:
Ok, so, apparently, I'm a dumbass. I totally forgot about the piston the last time I did a cleaning, and now I can't get the stupid thing to drop out.

What would you all suggest to get it to come out? From all I can see, there's the main hole that the rod goes in, then there's to two smaller holes near the other end. Is there another hole to be able to push it out?
Click to expand...

Disassemble as far as you can go, pull the tool kit out of the stock, find the punch. From the receiver side put it on the piston and tap it out with the punch and a rubber mallet. CLEAN, RE-CLEAN, OIL, RE-ASSEMBLE.

And hope that the commrade commisar didn't notice your capitalist pig-dog negligence! :D
 
qjdb said:
Ok, so, apparently, I'm a dumbass. I totally forgot about the piston the last time I did a cleaning, and now I can't get the stupid thing to drop out.

What would you all suggest to get it to come out? From all I can see, there's the main hole that the rod goes in, then there's to two smaller holes near the other end. Is there another hole to be able to push it out?
Click to expand...

Just give it a light tap from the back with a what ever will fit in there
 
A quick note here. Boiling water does not nuetralize the corrosive salts. It dissolves the salts and holds them in solution. If you only soak the parts and don't flush well, the water will dry and leave the salts to start all over again.
I use hot water with a touch of detegent to kill the oil (salts will stick in the oil) then flush all the parts with a kettle of boiling water. Then hit with air compressor.
As said befor, the boiling water will heat the metal parts and evaporate in no time. The air is to blow the water out of the little bits.
To judge what to clean, just think about everywhere the gas could go. Anything that has a black residue needs at least a wipe down.
 
goldenbb said:
Keep this in mind.

Any solvent that can dissolve powder residue/carbon build up is dangerous to your health. Brite-Bore, G96, home made "Ed's Red" etc...all cause damage to your internal organs and are carcinogenic. The better it works the greater care you need to take in handling it. Always wear the appropriate gloves to avoid skin contact. Only use in a well ventilated area.

Safe shooting, safe cleaning.
Click to expand...


Let me guess, you're not an auto mechanic;)
 
I believe I am now firmly in the camp of "Shoot some non-corrosive through it". Started doing this months ago.
During hunting seasons, I do not clean my rifles once they are sighted in. They get cleaned very well afterward, though for winter storage. This was problematic for the SKSs.
Shooting time is time stolen from something else that needs doing as well. That being said, I was finding that I was not using my SKS's because of the immediate need to clean them. Then I heard the suggestion of shooting NC after using corrosive. So, experiment time... Shot 200 rounds corrosive, 10 rounds non. Been over a month now, no rusting at all showing up in the gas tube.
This means that I can clean them at the same time as the rest...December.
 
2nd post in here - but I think it'll be useful.

Once I get my hands on some non-corrosive Norinco 7.62x39 I will be the guinea pig and try this on one of my SKS's. I'll take some photo's and such.

If someone else try's this in the mean time, then all the better :)
 
ghostntheshell said:
2nd post in here - but I think it'll be useful.

Once I get my hands on some non-corrosive Norinco 7.62x39 I will be the guinea pig and try this on one of my SKS's. I'll take some photo's and such.

If someone else try's this in the mean time, then all the better :)
Click to expand...

I have some norinco non-corrosive but i'm not going to waste ammo to save on some cleaning time, each bullet is precous:) My 2 cents.....
Joce
 
Yup.. average is 20 to 30 minutes... that's a complete tear down including gas pistons and such.. The SKS was designed to be ripped apart and slammed back together in record time. Don't forget to remove your firing pin every now and then and clean it too, so you don't get a slam fire! Oh, and i use G96 religously on all my firearms.. Everyone is different, and if it's a saturday evening after gravel pit shooting, might take longer as beer breaks have to be fit in there too.. LoL
 
ghostntheshell said:
2nd post in here - but I think it'll be useful.

Once I get my hands on some non-corrosive Norinco 7.62x39 I will be the guinea pig and try this on one of my SKS's. I'll take some photo's and such.

If someone else try's this in the mean time, then all the better :)
Click to expand...

On the bold - I have my doubts about that stuff actually being non-corrosive. Better off buying something of a known quality such as a box of Hornady 7.62x39 for your experiment.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom