Bear gun build?
- Thread starter S1de8urnz
- Start date
czechsanchez
Regular
- Location
- Fraser Valley
might want to have follow up rounds that are slugs in case you get a grizz who isn't phased by fireworks
czechsanchez
Regular
- Location
- Fraser Valley
james, how do you feel scaling up to slugs.. like banger, birdshot, buckshot and finally the delete button
bear bangers
We use them up here and we never use them in a gun that we use for live fire. They are black powder and will corrode your brl. beyond cleaning. They can also leave a wad in your brl. ( never a good thing ) Cracker shells can start fires in the bush,and as stated can go past the bear and send him your way again never a good thing. We have sawed off single shots for cracker guns. Air horn and slugs, guns are not for scaring bears. Just my 2 cents.
stay safe
pounder
We use them up here and we never use them in a gun that we use for live fire. They are black powder and will corrode your brl. beyond cleaning. They can also leave a wad in your brl. ( never a good thing ) Cracker shells can start fires in the bush,and as stated can go past the bear and send him your way again never a good thing. We have sawed off single shots for cracker guns. Air horn and slugs, guns are not for scaring bears. Just my 2 cents.
stay safe
pounder
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
A shotgun loaded with cracker shells will drive off a bear and in my experience is more effective than live fire when the point of shooting is the scare the bear rather than kill it. I've even had bears approach me when I've used live fire as a deterrent, and I've seen it happen to others.
There are problems that you might encounter with 12 ga bangers. The shell can explode in the barrel, you'll know when that happens, it doesn't hurt the gun, but it'll make your ears ring. If you are going to use those things, take them out and practice with them to get a feel for the range they have and how they act in the wind. If you're not sure if the cracker will explode between you and the bear, put it up in the air. Care should be taken in dry conditions as they can start fires.
Cracker shell on the way by . . .
My preference with cracker shells is to fire them in someone else's gun because they are corrosive. Clean your gun with warm soapy water ASAP after using them, particularly with a blue steel gun. Rather then loading both lethal and less lethal ammunition in the same gun, I prefer to work as a team of two people, one with a scare gun and other with the kill gun. The scare gun is loaded with cracker shells and rubber slugs. The combination when used together is a bit more effective, particularly if you're dealing with a bear that's been desensitized by too much exposure to cracker shells. That happens here quite a bit. The reason not to have both lethal and less lethal ammunition in the same gun is that in the heat of the moment it would be very easy to fire a slug thinking it was a bear banger or firing a cracker when you really needed a slug. It sounds funny, but the results aren't. If I'm forced to carry both types of ammo for one gun, I would load the magazine with slugs, leaving the chamber empty, then single load the crackers as I needed them. I would also be alert to the possibility of a faulty cracker shell leaving a partial obstruction in the bore. Bulged barrels don’t pattern worth a damn.
If I was on my own, and wanted to carry a scare gun, I would get on e of the revolver style launchers. The come in rimfire like a starter pistol but the also come in centerfire which is the version I prefer as I find it difficult to handle the little .22 blanks. The cracker shells for the pistols are available in bangers and screamers. I mostly use the bangers because the bears have difficulty determining where the screamer comes from. But if the first shot is a banger to get his attention, the screamer will send him on his way.
Edited to add . . .
If you use rubber slugs to supplement the cracker shells, try to aim at a big muscle like the rump rather than the ribs or the head, at close range those are kill shots. The following pic shows a bear hit on the shoulder blade at close range with a rubber slug.
There are problems that you might encounter with 12 ga bangers. The shell can explode in the barrel, you'll know when that happens, it doesn't hurt the gun, but it'll make your ears ring. If you are going to use those things, take them out and practice with them to get a feel for the range they have and how they act in the wind. If you're not sure if the cracker will explode between you and the bear, put it up in the air. Care should be taken in dry conditions as they can start fires.
Cracker shell on the way by . . .
My preference with cracker shells is to fire them in someone else's gun because they are corrosive. Clean your gun with warm soapy water ASAP after using them, particularly with a blue steel gun. Rather then loading both lethal and less lethal ammunition in the same gun, I prefer to work as a team of two people, one with a scare gun and other with the kill gun. The scare gun is loaded with cracker shells and rubber slugs. The combination when used together is a bit more effective, particularly if you're dealing with a bear that's been desensitized by too much exposure to cracker shells. That happens here quite a bit. The reason not to have both lethal and less lethal ammunition in the same gun is that in the heat of the moment it would be very easy to fire a slug thinking it was a bear banger or firing a cracker when you really needed a slug. It sounds funny, but the results aren't. If I'm forced to carry both types of ammo for one gun, I would load the magazine with slugs, leaving the chamber empty, then single load the crackers as I needed them. I would also be alert to the possibility of a faulty cracker shell leaving a partial obstruction in the bore. Bulged barrels don’t pattern worth a damn.
If I was on my own, and wanted to carry a scare gun, I would get on e of the revolver style launchers. The come in rimfire like a starter pistol but the also come in centerfire which is the version I prefer as I find it difficult to handle the little .22 blanks. The cracker shells for the pistols are available in bangers and screamers. I mostly use the bangers because the bears have difficulty determining where the screamer comes from. But if the first shot is a banger to get his attention, the screamer will send him on his way.
Edited to add . . .
If you use rubber slugs to supplement the cracker shells, try to aim at a big muscle like the rump rather than the ribs or the head, at close range those are kill shots. The following pic shows a bear hit on the shoulder blade at close range with a rubber slug.
roberto mervici
Regular
- Location
- Prov.Quebec, Canada
Polar, Grizzly, Blaky. Or all of them?
For what is worted in Churcill Man. the conservation agents looking out for polar bears carry 12 defenders.
It depend of the situation, close encounter if you keep your cool and handle you weapon well a 12 loaded with SSG and Slugs will work well and at close range 7 to 15 ft. it as tremendus stopping power.( fist 4 SSG and the last shoots Slugs)
If you can affort to invest a little more money a 45\70 marlin lever will get you power, speed and more range.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
For that to be a good plan the bear would have to sign on and promise not be a lethal threat until you have worked your way through the magazine. Load the gun with slugs. If you intend to use a cracker shell, a rubber bullet, or light bird shot as a deterrent, single load them, but have those slugs immediately available.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Last time I bothered to look, those guys packed 870 Marine Magnums.
I just picked up a box of Tru Flare 12ga, with 3 inch 00 backup. I like the 12ga bangers as well as the nearly identical pen launched ones, have a bunch of those too for days when lugging a shotgun around at work would be a PITA.
I imagine I'll be out before they 'expire', Ontario MNR has announced that they won't live trap and relocate anymore.
I imagine I'll be out before they 'expire', Ontario MNR has announced that they won't live trap and relocate anymore.
Wow Boomer, your exactly the guy i was hoping would see this. You answered all my questions perfectly. I was also wondering how good they were for my gun. Knowing now that they are corrosive and i could scare the bear right to me are things im glad to learn online and not the hard way. There are ones you can get that u light, just like a fire work. I'll probly use those now, and just have the shotgun as a back-up back-up. Its more for keeping them out of the camp and our tents.....
Thanx for the inputs
Thanx for the inputs
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
Am I the only one who thinks the title of this thread is in need of editing?
So far I haven't heard a single mention of anyone building anything!
So far I haven't heard a single mention of anyone building anything!
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I haven't seen hand thrown thunder-flashes for sale for quite some time, so unless you have a box squirreled away I don't know if you'll find any. I'll tell you one thing though, deciding that you need to deter a bear, getting out the thunder-flash, finding your lighter, getting it lit in the wind, lighting the fuze, and throwing the damn thing in time so it doesn't blow the fingers off your hand (these things have more in common with quarter stick of dynamite than with a firecracker) is somewhat more complicated than single loading cracker shells into a shotgun. Go onto Margo Supplies web site and price out a launching pistol, blank cartridges, and bangers; IMHO, that's you best option, leaving the shotgun available as a dedicated lethal option.
Last edited:
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
As for custom building a 12 ga bear gun, here's some points to consider:
- choose a repeating action,
- minimum 2 shot capacity for those who prefer doubles,
- choose stainless steel or nickel plated finishes if possible, but parkerizing and bake on finishes are also very good,
- use a full length stock, rather than pistol grip only,
- whatever the LOP you need is, cut the stock an inch shorter to allow for bulky clothing,
- install a good quality recoil pad,
- keep the barrel shorter than 26", but not so short that you could inadvertently get your support hand out in front of the muzzle,
- choose an open choke and if your gun is equipped with screw in chokes, choose one that extends past the muzzle to protect it from dings and burrs,
- use a ghost ring and post sight or at the very least a bead mounted on a pedestal to bring it to the height of your receiver to prevent you from shooting high,
- the front sight or front pedestal and bead should be soldered in place,
- if you need a barrel mounted swivel, have it soldered in place so it can't move,
- install a flashlight mount, and acquire a good quality light suitable for the application,
- understanding that in some circumstances you will only have access to the ammo that is in or on the gun, consider a side saddle, a speed feed stock, or a sling with shell loops, with the knowledge that all of these things add weight and bulk to your gun making it slower to use effectively.
- shoot the gun under a variety of conditions with the same ammo you intend to use in the field to ensure it is as close to 100% reliable as possible. If there appears to be deficiencies that detract from the gun's reliability, address those deficiencies before going afield with that gun or ammo.
- choose a repeating action,
- minimum 2 shot capacity for those who prefer doubles,
- choose stainless steel or nickel plated finishes if possible, but parkerizing and bake on finishes are also very good,
- use a full length stock, rather than pistol grip only,
- whatever the LOP you need is, cut the stock an inch shorter to allow for bulky clothing,
- install a good quality recoil pad,
- keep the barrel shorter than 26", but not so short that you could inadvertently get your support hand out in front of the muzzle,
- choose an open choke and if your gun is equipped with screw in chokes, choose one that extends past the muzzle to protect it from dings and burrs,
- use a ghost ring and post sight or at the very least a bead mounted on a pedestal to bring it to the height of your receiver to prevent you from shooting high,
- the front sight or front pedestal and bead should be soldered in place,
- if you need a barrel mounted swivel, have it soldered in place so it can't move,
- install a flashlight mount, and acquire a good quality light suitable for the application,
- understanding that in some circumstances you will only have access to the ammo that is in or on the gun, consider a side saddle, a speed feed stock, or a sling with shell loops, with the knowledge that all of these things add weight and bulk to your gun making it slower to use effectively.
- shoot the gun under a variety of conditions with the same ammo you intend to use in the field to ensure it is as close to 100% reliable as possible. If there appears to be deficiencies that detract from the gun's reliability, address those deficiencies before going afield with that gun or ammo.
Am I the only one who thinks the title of this thread is in need of editing?
So far I haven't heard a single mention of anyone building anything!
Someone always has to try and derail a very interesting and intelligent thread. Building knowledge perhaps?
I would love to be able to get a shorter stainless barrel for my Marine Mag as it is my prefer truck gun / wilderness defense gun. Mine has a Choate folding stock which I prefer over the full length pistol grip stocks for this application. If I could get a 14" stainless barrel, I would happily change to that even if it meant losing a few rounds of capacity.
I am no where near as experienced as the likes of Boomer or Geologist but I do follow the mindset of "guns are for stopping, not for scaring". There are alternative if scare tactics are desired. There are also alternative non-lethal options (bear spray, etc). My thought is that if I am under stress, I do not want to be unloading rubber slugs or firing birdshot to get to that slug that is three rounds in. I did not know about how corrosive the bangers are which is just another reason not to use them in a dedicated bear-stopping gun.
I am no where near as experienced as the likes of Boomer or Geologist but I do follow the mindset of "guns are for stopping, not for scaring". There are alternative if scare tactics are desired. There are also alternative non-lethal options (bear spray, etc). My thought is that if I am under stress, I do not want to be unloading rubber slugs or firing birdshot to get to that slug that is three rounds in. I did not know about how corrosive the bangers are which is just another reason not to use them in a dedicated bear-stopping gun.
The thing I like about this gun the most ? The missing safety. It's the little things that might make the difference one day
