M305 - Wood stock?

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I bought a Norinco M305 but I hate even the idea of plastic stock on a classic rifle.

Where can I get a classic looking wood stock that fits?
 
the BOYDS stock seems to be awfully popular- however, remember that even the original m14s were also "upgraded" to fibreglas for field use- it's no less "authentic" wearing plastic furniture
 
Here is my Boyds gunstock, came unfinished and I used pure tung oil.
If you go that route buy a wood filler, I didnt but should have.
DSC01840.jpg
 
Simon, that looks damn ###y.

How well did the norinco receiver fit in the boyds stock? Did you need to shave anything down?


Fit was ok, a little snug maybe.

I had to remove some wood over the red line in the pic, M1A rail is different maybe 1 1/2 inch smaller.Looked awkward but it would have fittied anyway.
DSC01841-1.jpg
 
awesome, I just oredered an unfinished boyds too, cant wait till i can put it all together. Simon, how did you go about finishing your stock? i've never done anything like that before i dont want to screw it up
 
awesome, I just oredered an unfinished boyds too, cant wait till i can put it all together. Simon, how did you go about finishing your stock? i've never done anything like that before i dont want to screw it up

Tung oil and Linseed oil are hand rubbed 1 coat at a time. Boiled Linseed and I believe they call it polymerized Tung oil dry faster. Its simple: wipe a thin coat of oil on with a rag or your fingers, let it sit 30 mins then wipe the excess off. With pure oils you let it sit for 24 hours between coats and with boiled/polymerized its usually a couple hours. Dont let a film of oil sit on top of the wood too long as it will congeal into a sticky sludge that will need to be buffed off with steel wool and a little oil. There are other oils and waxes you can use but tung and linseed are military correct. Make sure you either soak oiled rags in water or lay them out flat to dry as the oil generates heat as it polymerizes. If you have a couple rags all scrunched up soaked in polymerizing oil they can spontaneously combust. These 2 oils polymerize which is where they thicken into a gel-like state. They do not fully dry which is why they work so well with wood. They will penetrate deep into the wood and virtually waterproof and preserve it for years. The chinese used tung oil to waterproof their wooden boats for many many years (thousands of years?) in ancient times and it works very very well. Linseed oil will darken walnut alot, tung oil provides a lighter colour like you see above. As to the fitting, it will depend on how well your action fits. When I did my M1 I had a bunch of spots that needed work including the 1 Simon pointed out, where the bottom metal meets its inletting, the oprod needed clearance to pass the tilt test, I had to remove a little bit of barrel channel and had to do a little fitting of the handguards but overall easy work and well worth it. The stock did not need bedding and now that it has swollen with linseed oil it fits tighter than the USGI wood that it replaced. And the best part? Getting hit with the smell of linseed oil evey time I open my milsurp safe.... yeah, safe, singular, I only have 1 for milsurps, I'm working on it :p
 
wicked, thanks guys...im super excited about buidling my m14 and the wood stock is the only way to go in my opinion... so nice
 
wicked, thanks guys...im super excited about buidling my m14 and the wood stock is the only way to go in my opinion... so nice

be sure to hit up Wolverine for an SA brown fiberglass upper handguard ;) And their M1A NM sling is quite nice after a couple coats of linseed oil as well. And stop giving me ideas. I'm going broke just thinking about it :p
 
Upper Handguard

be sure to hit up Wolverine for an SA brown fiberglass upper handguard ;) And their M1A NM sling is quite nice after a couple coats of linseed oil as well. And stop giving me ideas. I'm going broke just thinking about it :p

Didn't know Wolverine sold a hand guard and must keep this in mind but Boyd"s also has a finished hand guard. Price wise can't compare.
Good luck
 
its the M1a stock, and you need to buy the unfinished one and do it yourself.....otherwise i probably would have bought the finished one too.
 
So i just thought of a question. Is there any extra metal parts that you need to buy in order to have the wood stokc fit properly? just read on m14forum that you need to purchase all new metal parts for a wood stock. whats that all about?
 
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