Removing the primer crimp

Longshot

Longshot

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Wondering how you folks are removing the primer crimp on some brass. 223 for example. My FL die seems to POP the primer out without much problem but I can see there is a small bit of brass in the way of getting it back in. Is a primer pocket uniformer enough or do I need a special tool?
 
I give each primer pocket a light swirl with a RCBS deburring/chamfer tool. The IVI brass I treat like this run through my Hornady LNL AP like greased butter. I have a Dillon Super Swage 600, but I find it unreliable at taking the crimp out. Some cartridges it does ok, some it doesn't do worth a damn. I think the downside of the super swage is that it doesn't actually remove the crimp, it just smooshes it out of the area directly above the primer pocket, so there's still extra metal where you don't need/want it, which can cause hangups in a progressive.

465641.jpg

Just stick the right side of the above pictured item into the primer pocket and give it a 3/4 turn clockwise with moderate pressure. You'll see the crimp lip's been removed, and it's been replaced with a nice smooth bevel.
 
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after the old primer has been pushed out, there is not much material left. a few twists of the deburring tool will do a great job. I only use IVI brass in my .223s and it only needs attention once.
 
I use a Dillon Super Swage 600, on the rare occasion that I deal with IVI .223 brass. It is actually quite a fussy affair to set up the 600 Super Swage just right. Until you do, it gives pretty worthless results (or, it will wreck every piece of brass you put through it). Once you've gotten it set up, it does a good enough job that you are able to prime the mil brass without too much hassle - though it always seems to be a bit "trickier"/"touchy" than commercial brass w.r.t. getting the primer started.
 
So I trim to length and bevel and chamfer case mouth, remove the case from the holder and flip it over and give the primer pocket a couple of turns (3 now see edit) with the beveler. Works slick. Just did 300 LC and another 200 PMC mil brass. EDIT This worked well on the one I did 3 turns and not so great on the single turn ones. I have 20 disfigured primers now out of 200 reprimed PMC cases. One even went off as I was punching it out. Nice thing is you only have to do it once.
Prime, fire up the RCBS ChargeMaster, load in 23.5 grns of 4064 (hot for most guns)under a 69 gr bullet, lookout targets.
 
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Depends on how many you are doing.

If I just want to load a few I use a pipe reamer:
pipe-reamers-514988.jpg

A slight touch of pressure and 2-4 turns and its done.

More than that I use a really good glove (to hang onto case) and a small reamer on a drimel flex head: allows me to run through them fast by hanging the dremil on the stand the flex head came with (for carving or engraving I think) and running at high speed the whole time.
 
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pp uniformer normally only affects depth of primer pocket. A deburrer, chamfering tool may work(gently!) on lite crimps, otherwise rcbs swaging tool(don't like lyman reamer). Be gentle and careful
 
I tried bevelling it out on Federal crimped 223, and I wasn't satisfied with the amount of bevel I had to create to remove the crimp. So I switched to a swager.
 
Dillon Super Swage all the way! Yes I found it a little finicky to setup, but once set it's fast and effective. I only get about 1 in 20 that needs to be re-swaged to get the primer in.

Best $ spent to swage massive amounts of crimped brass.
 
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