Top 10 mods to "improve" an M14 / M305

T

Tikka223

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I tried reading through the threads and there is a huge amount of info to digest and I'm having a hard time figuring out where to start. I've got a Norc M14 shorty in the mail as a new toy for the summer. I'm bi into the "precision" thing at the moment and I'd like to get the most out of the M305.

By order of importance what would be the top ten mods to consider to "improve" on what I'll be getting. I intend on making this a long-term tinker project with perhaps the ultimate goal of a new barrel in .308WIN (simply because there is a huge amount fog loading info out there for the caliber).

From what I've read so far the gas system is where I need to start. Suggestions?
 
Read through all of the "stickies" at the top of this forum; they will answer all, or most of, your Q's. You'll get a variable in the rank of 1 to 10, but like a chain, it's only as strong as your weakest link. Cost may be a consideration for some people as well. Go to one of Hungry's clinics for a good "hands on" as well.
 
If you are going to use iron sights see if the front sight is sitting on straight and not leaning and get a set of Garand rear sights , new op rod spring guide, then see if the gas system needs shimming ( gas locking ring rotates too far ).
Is the op rod guide itself loose ( the part that goes around the barrel) ??
If you plan on putting a scope on it get an Arms 18 mount and a good set of rings ..ARMS 22 or millett angle loc rings

Hungry was planning a trip out east for a clinic but not sure where exactly .
 
chalkriver said:
If you are going to use iron sights see if the front sight is sitting on straight and not leaning and get a set of Garand rear sights , new op rod spring guide, then see if the gas system needs shimming ( gas locking ring rotates too far ).
Is the op rod guide itself loose ( the part that goes around the barrel) ??
If you plan on putting a scope on it get an Arms 18 mount and a good set of rings ..ARMS 22 or millett angle loc rings

Hungry was planning a trip out east for a clinic but not sure where exactly .
Click to expand...

It's in Tracy, NB on the 16th of this month.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=723373
 
From how Skullboy explained it in another thread, it has to do with shot to shot consistency:
Skullboy said:
These two mods help with shot to shot consistency.........

Using a NM op rod spring guide keeps the spring in a straight line when it is compressed. Have a look at how the spring "snakes" on the standard spring guide when compressed, and look at how straight the spring compresses when the Match op rod guide is used..........If the spring is kept in constant alignment it will compress and decompress the same with every shot.

With the standard guide, the spring is compressed unevenly from side to side..........so the spring tends to unload differently with each shot.

A loose gas cylinder will affect the gas flow as the barrel gas port and cylinder gas port will be moving, sometimes letting less gas through, or more gas..........The gas cylinder assembly also contacts the front of the stock.......A lose gas system will affect how the rifle "sits" in the stock.......

If you can get your rifle to shoot consistently, then groups will shrink...... ;)
Click to expand...
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...t=national+match+spring+guide+accuracy&page=6
 
Travis Bickle said:
I've debated this mod myself.

What is the basic concept of how swapping out the metal spring guide for another would make it more accurate?

I've thought about it but held back because I have never seen any explanation thus far.
Click to expand...

Next Thursday, 07 Jun 2012, my episode hosted by Funker Tactical on YouTube will be released and I explain it thoroughly in that video. I also do a review of the MagWedge NM Op Rod Spring guide at that time. Marstar, NEA, S&J Hardware, Badger Ordnance, Smith Ent, Sadlak are ALL sources for this guide that truly help you shrink your groups!

Then tighten up your gas cylinder, then smooth up the trigger's first stage, then tighten up your op rod guide (see if it's loose first), maybe shim your gas system if you have a Norc / Poly barrel, or maybe swap out your gas cylinder lock if you have a USGI or American thread pattern barrel, the grease up all your moving metal on metal surfaces in the breech area, then rebarrel with a NM quality barrel, then time your piston on you gas system. Then upgrade your stock to a Mcmillan M1A Phat Bastaard, then glass bed with Devcon or MarineTex. I CAN teach you how to do all this at my clinics both in classroom or privately in my workshop. Some ONTARIO CGNutters have ventured to my house with a case of Stella and / or a bottle of JLohr California Cabernet Sauvignon for a private clinic or rebarrel job.

Am I getting too technical? Yes, I am but all depends on what you want to achieve and how much money you wanna throw at this platform.

So there... first come to my clinic and learn , learn, learn! Then make decisions on future projects by bouncing these ideas off others you will network with and see for yourself that not everyone needs a SAGE stock or TROY platform or VLTOR to shoot nice and tight groups all the while having FUN! :D

Cheers,
Barney
 
1. Have the trigger group tuned or learn to tune it.
2. Peen the barrel boss with a machinist's punch to secure your oprod guide from ever moving again and realign op rod guide tip to piston tail
3. Use shims to tighten your gas cylinder (sold in sets of three typically 0.005", 0.10" and .015") (sometimes just flipping your GC lock works wonders for timing).
4. Replace the oprod spring guide
5. Replace the oprod spring
6. Buy any stock other than what came with the Norinco/Polytech rifle
7. Clean it properly. Then use this guide to lubricate.
8. Get as many original US GI parts as possible
9. Install a new bolt
10. Weld your combat boots as shown below :)
sot.jpg


Image above borrowed from M14 EBR: A Continuing Evolution.
Crane Division, Naval Surface Warfare Center (NSWC Crane).

Hope that helps! Cheers, Frank
 
  1. Kreger barrel.
  2. JAE stock.
  3. Hand reloaded match grade ammo.
  4. Solid steel mount with a S&B, Ziess or NF optic on top.
  5. Gas system with a tighter than a nun beep piston so that the vacum preasure takes 10 second for it to drop.
  6. Perfectly aligned and staked op-rod sytem including an op-rod guide with no wiggle.
  7. A trigger job done so nice that no other's will compare and is repeatable trigger pull time and time again (winged plunger is the key here folk's along with some dimond jewerly file's).
  8. USGI match 308 head spaced bolt perfectly lapped to one's reciever.
  9. 11 degree muzzle crown.
  10. Hard chrome all part's besides the springs and the barrel.
P.S. Pic's to follow :p
 
Satain said:
  1. Kreger barrel.
  2. JAE stock.
  3. Hand reloaded match grade ammo.
  4. Solid steel mount with a S&B, Ziess or NF optic on top.
  5. Gas system with a tighter than a nun beep piston so that the vacum preasure takes 10 second for it to drop.
  6. Perfectly aligned and staked op-rod sytem including an op-rod guide with no wiggle.
  7. A trigger job done so nice that no other's will compare and is repeatable trigger pull time and time again (winged plunger is the key here folk's along with some dimond jewerly file's).
  8. USGI match 308 head spaced bolt perfectly lapped to one's reciever.
  9. 11 degree muzzle crown.
  10. Hard chrome all part's besides the springs and the barrel.
P.S. Pic's to follow :p
Click to expand...

That's a new one. Can't wait to see pics of that.
 
My standard response to this question is to check your iron sights, add a NM spring guide, have SEI perform their MAX-PAK upgrade to your trigger group and bolt everything into a SAGE EBR chassis stock, but the soon to be released Blackfeather RS looks like an excellent alternative to the SAGE and it sells for le$$.

Clean and grease the rifle before you fire it and use quality ammo and mags.
 
chalkriver said:
Looks great Satain , well done !! Did you make the stock ?? As I have never seen one like that before .
Click to expand...
Ya custom molded hand grip. This rifle is the tester before the same process is to be applied to all the high parts I listed above.
And thank-you for the kind word's.
 
Looks like a great build. That barrel and brake looks great.

On the point of accuracy, ammunition selection plays a huge role. Some of that surplus or gun show ammo won't shoot decently in the best of guns. If nothing else, find ammunition that works for you.
 
Grizzlypeg said:
Looks like a great build. That barrel and brake looks great.

On the point of accuracy, ammunition selection plays a huge role. Some of that surplus or gun show ammo won't shoot decently in the best of guns. If nothing else, find ammunition that works for you.
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to buy some dies for .308.

Where would I find 7.62 NATO that isn't surplus / norc ammo?
 
Tikka223 said:
I'm going to have to buy some dies for .308.

Where would I find 7.62 NATO that isn't surplus / norc ammo?
Click to expand...

I shoot both various 7.62 nato fmj ammo and 308 hunting ammo, and the 308 hunting ammo is far superior. I stick to the 150 grain 308 and no problems so far, and much better accuracy. A good starting point is Federal blue box 150 grain. Hopefully you can find it for around a buck a shot. Save the brass.

I've shot IVI, some overseas nato ammo and some purple boxed corrosive primer 7.62 and it produces groups at least twice the size of what I get with even the cheap 308 hunting ammo.

I have to get out and buy some Sierra 168 grain match bullets and 4895 powder and give that a try. I have a whole pile of prepped brass, ready to fill ( the easy part of reloading).
 
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