Proper way to get the most out of turrets???

darcy32171

darcy32171

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I installed a 1/8moa scope on my 22-250. I want to re-zero the turrets and start over sighting in for 200yards. Right at the moment, my up/down turret is maxed out and I need more. If I rezero the turrets, whats is the absolute best way to set up the scope so I don`t use up all the adjustment???
Once I boresight with my Bushnell Boresighter for 100 yards...I need all my adjustment just to get it close to center when shooting at the target at 100yards. I still need to go up roughly 3 inches which is: 24 clicks which I don`t have.
The screws on the side of the scope (think people call these: Windage screws???), they look to me as: fastners that hold the scope rings to the rail. Doesn`t look like they can be adjusted at all.
I`d rather get the scope as close to center as I can, before using the turrets.
Please, need help!!!!!
My next step is to take my target and gun back to the store and see if its a "scope ring" issue. I just don`t want to look like a dummie if it is something I can easily do at home. Thanks guys.
June2ndtarget.jpg
 
spooksar said:
Need more info what rings, what bases, what scope. Are you using a rail if so what MOA to start
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The Rings and bases are weaver. With this scope, the store had to change the bases. The scope is a Redfield Revenge 6x18x44 and the MOA is 1/8 on the turrets.
 
I hate to say Bore sighter cause alot of people get an earfull on how it is junk. The thing is: When sighting in with a 1/8 moa scope, you sure don`t want to be 8 inches from center when sighting in. A guy (like my problem) will use up all the turret just to get back to center.
 
I'd switch to Burris Custom signature zee rings with plastic inserts, and get a set of inserts that includes the various offsets so you can lower the front of the scope / raise the rear. You can easily change the zero by 20 moa or more, and that will leave lots of up elevation on the turrets.
 
Keep in mind that many 1/8 click scopes have half of the adjustment of a 1/4 click scope. This is the main cause of the problem.

Center your crosshair by counting all clicks and dividing by two.
Use windage adjustable bases and rings.
Shim for correct elevation. Use as few shims as possible, they flex the tube.
 
Thanks for the info! I went to the store where I purchased both my gun and scope. The guy that has done anything with mine isn`t in tilll tomorrow. I know the other guy is very knowledgable also, but I`d rather the same guy everytime. I`ll ask about these Burris Zee rings. He might even take back these weaver bases, if I have to change the whole works.
Right at the moment, money is no issue.....I want this gun/scope combo right and don`t want to have to keep zeroing this package.
 
Lodi said:
Keep in mind that many 1/8 click scopes have half of the adjustment of a 1/4 click scope. This is the main cause of the problem.

Center your crosshair by counting all clicks and dividing by two.
Use windage adjustable bases and rings.
Shim for correct elevation. Use as few shims as possible, they flex the tube.
Click to expand...
Can someone please post a pic what a set of adjustable windage bases look like please.
Like I said in my first post: The screws look like all they do is hold the rings to the bases.
This 1/8moa is a huge pain. Thus the reason I posted this topic. I need to be able to get the scope almost perfect within a variable of inches when sighting in the first time. Not this, 5-8inches to the right/left/up or down stuff.
 
Look at these from Leupold, the large rear screws will move the scope scope side to side by loosening one and tightening the other.
 
Lodi said:
Look at these from Leupold, the large rear screws will move the scope scope side to side by loosening one and tightening the other.
Click to expand...
Thanks Lodi, I`ll see what kinds they have in stock. Then I`ll reply back here and see what you guys think of whatever brand they have before I make the purchase. If I take my target in with me, should they be able to give a pretty good educated guess on how much of a shim would be needed? Or would I need to buy multiple and keep trying till I get it darn close???
 
If you have maxed out your elevation and are still 3" low at 100, I would be looking at a Near rail and rings or similar tapered rail.

Have you tried a different bullet? I have seen up to 14" difference with same weight bullets, different brand.
 
Lodi said:
Very rough guesstimate - 0.001" shim = 1" difference at 100yds.
Click to expand...

Yep-that's it. I would go for the Burris Signature Zee rings (they have +/- 10MOA halves) for a total of 20 MOA. You can adjust these to get a 20 MOA up adjustment (that is -10 halves used on your front scope ring, and +10 at the back). Your whole scope will be lower at the front, higher at the back so you will have to raise your point of aim (POA) upwards to set your crosshairs on the target.

I have these on a 22-250 of mine-as it turns out, I used the 20 MOA adjustment and the scope is at its optical zero at 200 yds (equal elevation up and down). You may have to experiment, but the inserts work and don't leave any marks.
 
Today I bought the Burris Signature Dovetail rings and the Burris Trumount bases with the windage adjustment. This afternoon the shop is going to disassemble what I have and reassemble the new bases and rings. I`d do it at home, but haven`t yet bought one of those torque screwdrivers. Once I send lead down range and get the windage close, I`ll send a few more shots downrange and take the target in with me to the shop. I bought the posi align insert kit which they will install to get me close. Thanks for all the info and help guys! Muchly appreciated, Darcy
 
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