ISSC Mk22 - screws loose. Warranty void if I use locktite??

E

enfield71

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SW Ontario
Hi - I bought an ISSC Mk22 & took it to the range for the first time & shot about 200 rounds.

The tactical rails are loose - all of them. I haven't bothered looking inside for the dreaded loose screws that if loose can cause light strikes.

I know I have a 1 year limited warranty. My question is: will the warranty be voided if I locktite all the screws on this firearm?

I live in London and will be more than happy to drop the firearm off in person at your facility if you wish to tighten the screws with locktite.
 
hey enfield,
Go ahead and locktite the rail screws. That wont void your warrantee. You should allso replace the vertical screw #108 with an M4x16. The factory M4x12 is too short and you can easily strip the threads in the metel block that it winds into. Locktite here is recomended. These 2 bolts #108 need to be checked regularly, whenever you clean your gun.
I've done some mods to mine and have fixed any potential problems that so many have experienced.
There are lots of threads on this gun and how to fix them. Once done, it will last a long time and is a totaly fun [and acurate] gun to shoot.
enjoy..
 
funny as I loctited all the bolts on my rifle, now one bolt on the side of the reciever that holds the stock in place just stripped cuz of the fvcking loctite. Seems I am gonna have to drill it out now dam it!!!!!
 
bfiles said:
funny as I loctited all the bolts on my rifle, now one bolt on the side of the reciever that holds the stock in place just stripped cuz of the fvcking loctite. Seems I am gonna have to drill it out now dam it!!!!!
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yah, I hear you..

Those are really fine threads and the locktite is very difficult to clean off of them, and you have to try to clean them before reasembly or thats what happens. As for the bolts #108, I bought stainless ones and an extra nut so that I can wind the bolt through a nut before reassembling. Thats about the only way I have found to clean the threads.
The factory bolts are of really poor quality, and if you can find replacements, I think it would be worthwhile. We're only talking pennies here, its just finding them thats the problem. Try Brafasco.
good luck :)
 
bfiles said:
funny as I loctited all the bolts on my rifle, now one bolt on the side of the reciever that holds the stock in place just stripped cuz of the fvcking loctite. Seems I am gonna have to drill it out now dam it!!!!!
Click to expand...

Cool. Locktite strips screws. Whodda thunk it. That's probably why they don't just hand it out at gun stores!:p
 
joe-nwt said:
Cool. Locktite strips screws. Whodda thunk it. That's probably why they don't just hand it out at gun stores!:p
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In my limited use of Locktite on firearms, but having used Locktite in the electrical trade a lot, I can explain this quickly:

The very small screws involved in electronic eletrical components as well as firearms have very small threads, which amazingly when you do the math has a very large amount of relative surface area! When applying Locktite the amount used can be so small on such a large relative surface that the Locktite can partially dry before the screw is fully seated: basically putting a hard sticky obstruction in the way causing stripped threads. I have also seen where Locktite was used on long small screws and the Locktite dried during the 30-40 turns it took to get the screw fully seated, thus causing damage.

I have learned to always applied Locktite to one screw at a time, puts lots on (wiped excess later) and put that one screw in immediately! Then move to the next one.
 
Aniest said:
In my limited use of Locktite on firearms, but having used Locktite in the electrical trade a lot, I can explain this quickly:

The very small screws involved in electronic eletrical components as well as firearms have very small threads, which amazingly when you do the math has a very large amount of relative surface area! When applying Locktite the amount used can be so small on such a large relative surface that the Locktite can partially dry before the screw is fully seated: basically putting a hard sticky obstruction in the way causing stripped threads. I have also seen where Locktite was used on long small screws and the Locktite dried during the 30-40 turns it took to get the screw fully seated, thus causing damage.

I have learned to always applied Locktite to one screw at a time, puts lots on (wiped excess later) and put that one screw in immediately! Then move to the next one.
Click to expand...

I'm an electrical contractor as well. Please explain why you would put locktite on a long screw with 30-40 threads.
 
joe-nwt said:
Cool. Locktite strips screws. Whodda thunk it. That's probably why they don't just hand it out at gun stores!:p
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:eek: i never thought of that!?!?!?!?

But I think the real problem was using way to much of it. I figured its better to have it stay in place then lose the screw somewhere
 
blue loctite for screw you may wish to remove from time to time. red on things you plan to never take apart.
 
I ordered a complete set of screws from an American website - rrages and you can future out the com part. I also ordered the H&K push pins. I am just going to replace every darn screw - screw it! Wish I hadn't bought the POS of a gun. They do not ship outside of the US & luckily I have friends in the US.
 
joe-nwt said:
I'm an electrical contractor as well. Please explain why you would put locktite on a long screw with 30-40 threads.
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@OP: sorry for the tangent here.....

@ joe-nwt: I use Locktite on a lot of stuff: where I work we fix almost everything "in-house". When I say I have used Locktite a lot, it is not usual to use it on tiny screws. Last time I used Locktite it was help seal an old hydraulic knock out cutter oil drain plug because we were out of town and couldn't get a relacement for the cutter on a Sunday. Before that it was the Trencher's vibration plow attachment I think, and before that a Whacker Neuson jumping jack.

However, some years ago I did standoffs for controls boards and used Locktite. They were #4-40 screws 1 1/4" long that went through the electrically isolating anti-vibration grommet in the circuit board, through a hollow stand-off tube custom cut to length, and then threaded only 4-5 threads into a threaded nipple I could not change. The problem was this board was on a pump controller physically on the pump and subject to vibration, so I wanted to prevent them from coming loose but was afraid to tighten them too much, so I decided to use Locktite. I applied a tiny amount of Locktite and torqued to the specified rating, but had problems as I stated with Locktite on small screws. However, after learning my lesson they have stayed put to this day.

... Now, back to firearms.
 
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Heat is your friend when removing bolts/screws with loctite (yes, even RED-loctite).
Clean threads before re-inserting.
Always tighten to specified torque or "just-tight-enough". Superman strength is not required, remember you're using loctite after-all.
I've not had a stripped screw for years (knock on wood).
 
loctite comes in many colors each has its one application if your using red or blue on fire arms thats a bad idea because its not ment for small screws purple is ment for small screws or to be even safer and you have the room green is even better since its ment to torque the screw in first then apply it after and it will wick in to the threads and lock it in place if you go to the loctite websight you should find a chart telling you the color and number for the loctite needed for small screws also if its a visible screw and you dont want to color of the loctite to show clear nail polish works well but again it drys fast so its a one screw at a time deal and nitro solvent will losen it up

in my trade loctite is an art since we use it on everything (as a mechanic) and knowing what type to use were saves more time then a person could think of

with all the small screws for all the small electrical components now i go through the purple more then i go through blue
 
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