My Shorty Boyds build With pics and questions

Mandown!

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Ok here it goes first time trying to post pics hope it works out!

Finished my stock with about 5 coats of pure tung oil

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as per fellow CGN'ers and the wealth of advice on the forum, took it apart and cleaned it real good. got myself the springfield brake from spcamno, and a sadlak op rod spring guide and tubb chrome-silicon spring. Removal of the flash hider was really easy and only took a few solid wacks and caused no damage to the barrel, threads or flash hider.

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The Finished product.....

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NOW, for the questions. I've only put 120 rounds down range so far and after the trip, took it apart to look at it. was wondering if the wear on the parts is normal or if there might be something wrong? look like excessive wear on some bolt parts etc. I have made sure it passes all the tilt tests, even with the wood stock installed, so no problem there. Does this look normal to you guys or is there an issue?
by the top of the roller and at the bottom too its rounding off and seem quite shiny
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halfway up the oprod slot, its been rounded a little and seems to be peening in the middle and at the bottom
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The top of the bolt is getting shiny as well, and the rounded surface on the back is super shiny
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It's been trials and tribulations, but its also been a really good bonding experience with my dad doing this build, im fairly new to guns and he's more green than me so its been a great time learning. Also if anyones asking about the wear, I have lubed up eveything as per the stickies/youtube videos, so i can't see that being the issue. Thoughts and advice are appreciated!
 
what ammo are you shoting with i heard 180+grain ammo causes excessive wear, i put 200 rounds of the norc ammo though mine and it isnt wearing like that, not saying that its not normal, i dont have much experience with the m305, hopefully someone with lots of experience chimes in.
Your rifle looks sweet btw, good job
 
Hi mandown. A Superb looking job you did on the stock:agree:!

I took a look at my 2009 model with I'd say 550-600 rounds, but I don't see the wear you are showing on the op rod.

It's getting wacked hard for sure. Your roller is nice and free right? Make sure you press lube into it like a packing a bearing and lots in the roller channel.

I've put 3 boxes of the Norinco NATO ball ammo down range last time, but never noticed any pressure signs on the cases or primers. If their powder charge weight and burn rate is causing an out of spec gas impulse for the M-14's action, this may be causing the hard hit while the action is fully locked from chamber pressure. Where you are shooting only Norc ammo, I'm getting curious now if mine would show this wear if I put only Norinco 762 through it?

One thing I did notice is there appears to be GTAW(TIG)welding under your right lock lug? The lug with the roller. These are forged bolts and I'm not sure if this is common or not. Mine has no indication of welding. If yours is machining marks, it's the most curious looking ones I've ever seen.
 
Ya I covered the roller in grease as best I could, how do i pack it in there without a special tool? I also mentioned In another thread that the older doesn't run along the track when I manually pull the op rod back.... I was thinking that might be a problem but someone said it might run different under the pressure created by the firing of a round
 
...how do i pack it in there without a special tool?


Same way you pack any bearing! ;) (okay, same way I pack any bearing...)

Glob of grease in your palm, press the roller into the glob. Repeat until grease flows out the opposite side of the roller.

(not pretty, but it works for all bearings!)


Matt

Edit: ...also, nice job on the stock.. makes me want to blow more money on my guns...
 
Mandown I chrony'd the last box of Norinco 762NATO I had this evening at the range.

The temperature was 17Celsius, and the chrony's center was 15 feet from the muzzle.

Here are the last 12 rounds from my M14 Rifle, 22" barrel.

2758 2809 2832
2741 2770 2801
2777 2852 2877:eek:
2801 2842 2791

The average of 12 rounds was 2804.24 feet per second.;)

The extreme spread was 136 feet per second.

The standard deviation was 40.4994 feet per second. So basically you got a 2800 ft/sec round +/- 40 feet per sec.

This appears to be bang on US M-80 ball spec.

I checked the op rod on mine after the 60 rounds of Norinco Ball, and there is no peening like on your channel whatsoever.

For a comparison with two other fine factory cartridges that shoots great in my Rifle anyhow, here are the results.

Winchester PowerMax PHP 150gr 2739/2770/2751

Sellier&Bellot 150gr FMJ 2756/2723/2745

If you compare the 147gr Norinco Ball to these slightly heavier 150 grain cartridges, the velocities appear normal.
I had one MFS ball round left I fired, it only registered 2554 ft/sec:eek: Not going to hurt anything with this stuff. But I'll wait till I have more boxes for a real chrony test of the MFS.

There were no pressure signs on any primers or cases, so the Norinco is good to go in my rifle. It is not as accurate as the S&B ammo. In FMJ ammo S&B is probably the best for accuracy and consistency in velocity in my bone stock except for Hungry's recoil spring.
 
no shims were not for the stock, they were for the gas system, to make the gas cylinder lock real tight.

Rememberthesomme I really appreciate the feed back, and I dont think that its the ammo thats doing it. when i dont have the op rod spring guide and spring in, everything passes tilt test with and without the stock on.

I noticed recently that when i manually pull the op rod back, about half way through the pull, the bolt stops, and as i keep pulling back, it then crosses the oprod slot and is caught by the front right where the metal is rounded and peening, and then finally slides into the back normally. Throughout this whole operation, the bolt roller NEVER leaves the op rod slot and doesnt contact the accelerator rail, nor does the bolt roller appear to move(turn) as it should, despite using the method described by autocrash and tony. I have taken it apart and cleaned/lubricated everything as per stickies and "tony's" videos on youtube.

As said before, when the bolt stops about half way back, it tilts ever so slighty to the right, almost as if being caught by something, but I can't for the life of my find where appears to be catching, if that really is the case.

I now have a really awesome looking rifle, that I don't want to fire, because i dont want to ruin it. I know as people say, buy two! But i figured from all the good reports, i could buy one and pimp it out, now i really do wish i had bought two.....

Im patiently awaiting advice from anyone that may have had or is having this problem. I know its hard for people to diagnose without actually seeing it in action. perhaps i can upload a video. Maybe one of the gurus could provide me with some shiny glimmer of hope/reassurance/advice..........
 
oh and steve-engell, it does require work yes. a little dremeling to make the receiver sit flush was required, you can find pics in one of the wood stock threads. It was nerve racking for me cause i have never done anything like it before, but it all worked out fine
 
no ideas??? I was hopeing SOMEONE would maybe have some slight idea of what the issue could be, I feel like the kid no ones wants on the basketball team.

FOREVER LONELY
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...

I noticed recently that when i manually pull the op rod back, about half way through the pull, the bolt stops, and as i keep pulling back, it then crosses the oprod slot and is caught by the front right where the metal is rounded and peening, and then finally slides into the back normally. Throughout this whole operation, the bolt roller NEVER leaves the op rod slot and doesnt contact the accelerator rail, nor does the bolt roller appear to move(turn) as it should, despite using the method described by autocrash and tony. I have taken it apart and cleaned/lubricated everything as per stickies and "tony's" videos on youtube.

As said before, when the bolt stops about half way back, it tilts ever so slighty to the right, almost as if being caught by something, but I can't for the life of my find where appears to be catching, if that really is the case.
...

My thoughts are running two ways. The operating rod guide might be off centre, and either binding the spring inside or putting an extra force on the rod as you say mid-stroke. Or, the guide is fine, but the barrel isn't indexed properly. Nork's have that reputation.

The fixes would be to replace the flat sided spring rod with a round one, and with some true flat bars, read the barrel alignment on the two sight bases. Once you see the results, the collective wisdom can make more informed suggestions.
 
Yes I have a Sadlak op rod guide and a david tubb spring. and as for barrel indexing, well the front sight appears to be perfectly straight
 
Is the wear from the front corner of the bolt behind the roller making contact with the track edge?-Compare the radius of your bolt to this one:
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put some bluing or perhaps mark the bolt corner with a black sharpie and test fire.
 
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