$1,000 modern hunting rife: help me find one

GunNewb said:
cant do the plastic.

Liking

cz 550, weatherby in wood s2(not deluxe too expensive) or the model 70 featherweight. daaamn this is a tough one.
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In the post you're referring to, Kamlooky named a great bunch of WOODEN stocked, classic rifles.
There is much better value for your money, on these older classics.
There seems to be three makes of older, very good rifles, that are usually priced below their value.
I am thinking of Husqvarna, the older Parker Hale rifles which had a great reputation for accuracy and BSA rifles.
These regularily come up on the EE.
 
It's really going to boil down to personel preference as there are several good guns available in your budget range.

My recommendation would be the Model 70 in Feather Weight. A very well done classic design, very dependable and trouble free. The triggers can be adjusted to break crisp and clean like your wife's best crystal an a tile floor.

I have two one in feather weight and the other a super grade.
 
m70 featherweights looking good. Would get the Cz but I think its too heavy I think I want something thats easy to walk with. pheewph geese
 
Why mess with the rest when you can have the best...?

hunterss.jpg


Tikka T3 Lite Hunter Stainless...
 
There are too many good rifles in that price range to list! I suggest you handle a few and buy the one that feels right to you. You can't go wrong with Tikka T3, most Savages, CZ American, and yes, the Remington 7600 is also a good pick!

Not to stir the pot, but I have had TERRIBLE luck with most Remington (7600 excluded) and Winchester (the premium mod 70 excluded), products, sorry to offend! :)
 
In this day in age, I find it easier to list the few models of rifles to stay away from. Most rifles are well made and will last most of us a life time in the field if taken care of. Accuracy from any factory rifle I believe is a crap shoot, all companies will make a few excellent shooters and a few lemons, but I believe 90% fall somewhere in between. As a few members mentiond before it's really best if you go to a store or some gun shows and handle the rifles you want before you buy. Pick it up shoulder it, get a feel for its fit and ballance, cycle the action, play with the mag or floor plate to see what you think you may prefer, same go's for the safety, check to see how comfortable it is to engage/disengage, and last but not least if possible try the trigger, although most sellers don't like people dry fireing brand new rifles, which is understandable. In the end it all comes down to personal preference.

Cheers,

JD
 
Is your budget 1000 for the rifle, or for the rifle and glass?

Don't blow it all on the gun and cheap out on the glass, I think you may well regret it.

I found myself humming and hawing between the Win 70 and CZ550. I ended up with the CZ because I always liked the CZ euro style stock and don't regret it at all. With a zeiss conquest that put me in at around 1700 after taxes and shipping.

If I only had 1000 to spend, I would likely go with one of the tradex rifles and get as much glass as I could afford with the rest.

Just one mans opinion though, but getting crappy glass is a great way to learn the value of the good stuff ;)
 
Oh, also you mentioned not liking plastic.

I was kind of surprised to see that the mag follower and floorplate on my newer manufactured CZ550 was plastic.

Not a deal breaker for me, but it was a bit of a surprise.

I was also surprised that the set trigger was so good, but if it wasn't set it is really creepy/rough. I always set it, but someday would like to see if someone could smooth the regular trigger out for me.

Third suprise was that because of the bolt throw, the conquest required high rings for the bolt to clear the ocular. I had a VX-I around that cleared the ocular with medium rings.
 
Just had to kill my curiosity and spent a bit of time on Trade Ex Canada.
There are so many 1600's in the chambering you speak that I think I would
find the best of this bunch.
You should have half your budget left over for a real decent scope too.
Those Mauser 98's aren't a slouch either.
For some reason you aren't happy with it, stick it on the EE and it will
sell quickly.
 
kamlooky said:
Just had to kill my curiosity and spent a bit of time on Trade Ex Canada.
There are so many 1600's in the chambering you speak that I think I would
find the best of this bunch.
You should have half your budget left over for a real decent scope too.
Those Mauser 98's aren't a slouch either.
For some reason you aren't happy with it, stick it on the EE and it will
sell quickly.
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X-2 check out the new Zastava 98's these are very good quality for the money brand new and under $500.00 .Zastava made these for Remington Remember the 798 Remington just put there own stocks on them
 
sketts said:
I was also surprised that the set trigger was so good, but if it wasn't set it is really creepy/rough. I always set it, but someday would like to see if someone could smooth the regular trigger out for me.
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I found that any creep adjusted right out on my CZ 527 Varmint. Now that the trigger is properly adjusted, I prefer to use it unset because of the overtravel inherent to the set mode.
 
tjhaile said:
I found that any creep adjusted right out on my CZ 527 Varmint. Now that the trigger is properly adjusted, I prefer to use it unset because of the overtravel inherent to the set mode.
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Sorry to the OP for the highjack, but wow!

I had that rifle apart a few times but looked at those screws around the trigger, got intimidated and figured I was going to need a professional.

I just spent about an hour tinkering(and on google), and the difference is night and day! The regular trigger was almost unusable before, but it is just great now. Now that I see how it all works, it seems simple now, but it sure didn't then.

Anyway, forget my whining about the trigger, that was operator error. Man I need to head to the range and try this bad boy out.
 
You've inspire me to take another shot at adjusting my trigger. I only have the set trigger at the weight I like. I'd like the unset trigger lighter.
 
The screw at the back adjusts sear engagement (at least I think thats what its called), and the screw closest to the bolt adjusts trigger weight. The screw closest to the trigger adjusts overtravel.

I actually dialed up the weight a little (which seemed to solve the jerkiness/roughness problem) and reduced the sear engagement until it broke at 3 lbs even (and cleanly). I measured trigger break with a calibrated jug of canola oil ;) .

Then i adjusted the overtravel screw until the trigger wouldnt break and backed it off a half turn.

I batted the rifle around a bit and opened/closed the bolt and engaged/disengaged safety, and I couldn't get it to fire. Honestly, it feels just as good as the set trigger did, without the overtravel.
 
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