Nylon brush

Anything back over the crown will cause a certain amount of ware.

Its up to you to decide if it makes a difference.

Good luck.

The bigger question is: Does a nylon brush do anything at all?
 
Not any more than a solid metal projectile moving at 3000ft/sec followed by superheated gases.

Bullet leaving barrel is centered in the bore, brush pushed clear of barrel will drag rod over lower edge of muzzle on back stroke. I put a stop near muzzle to prevent nylon brush exiting bore. Wipe Out works okay but it won't clean groove corners without brushing.
 
How would you recommend cleaning the barrel of a precision rifle? I'm wondering about the procedure for using a cleaning rod from the breach, and what to do as it reaches the muzzle.

Wipe Out bore cleaner, a Dewey coated rod and a BRASS jag with patches on work just fine with ZERO chance of damage to the bore or crown.
From the action end push the rod/jag/patch towards the muzzle, when the patch comes out of the muzzle carefully pull the rod/jag back through the barrel. I use a smaller jag than is required and double or triple up on the patches depending on bore diameter, when retracting the jag I put just 1 patch around the jag so that it can not touch the bore.
A bore guide is a useful gizmo to use as well.
 
Wipe Out bore cleaner, a Dewey coated rod and a BRASS jag with patches on work just fine with ZERO chance of damage to the bore or crown.

I'm sorry, but I have to argue this. While I agree that the correct usage of these items can help to reduce the effect that cleaning has on a firearm; cleaning is not a benign activity, no matter what you use or how careful you are.

Holding yourself out to make claims of the contrary is just asking to pay for someones new rifle (if you ask me).
 
Wipe Out bore cleaner, a Dewey coated rod and a BRASS jag with patches on work just fine with ZERO chance of damage to the bore or crown.
From the action end push the rod/jag/patch towards the muzzle, when the patch comes out of the muzzle carefully pull the rod/jag back through the barrel. I use a smaller jag than is required and double or triple up on the patches depending on bore diameter, when retracting the jag I put just 1 patch around the jag so that it can not touch the bore.
A bore guide is a useful gizmo to use as well.

Thanks. Its the retracting part that I was wondering about. Wasn't sure whether to push the jag further out than necessary to have the patch drop off, and whether to unscrew the jag each time and retract only the rod. So you wrap the jag on the trip back. Advice appreciated. I know this stuff is controversial as there are many different ideas, but its good to know what has been working for you.
 
I'm sorry, but I have to argue this. While I agree that the correct usage of these items can help to reduce the effect that cleaning has on a firearm; cleaning is not a benign activity, no matter what you use or how careful you are.

Holding yourself out to make claims of the contrary is just asking to pay for someones new rifle (if you ask me).

Fair enough, I should have used wording like "a lesser chance".
The point I was trying to make is that there are cheap cleaning kits that have steel rods, and even steel jags or loops. The coated rods and brass which is fairly soft has a much lesser chance to do damage if used correctly.
 
Thanks. Its the retracting part that I was wondering about. Wasn't sure whether to push the jag further out than necessary to have the patch drop off, and whether to unscrew the jag each time and retract only the rod. So you wrap the jag on the trip back. Advice appreciated. I know this stuff is controversial as there are many different ideas, but its good to know what has been working for you.

Taking the jag off exposes bare steel threads on the end of the rod, which can certainly do bad things to a bore.
Pushing the jag all the way out is fine just make sure to support the jag as it exits the muzzle, you don't want the rod behind the jag dropping down on the crown.
A delrin plastic barrel cover with an exit hole that is just a little larger than bore diameter helps with this immensely.
Essentially a muzzle cap that friction fits the outside of the barrel and extends an inch past the crown with a hole for the rod to pass through.
Not sure how else to describe it.
 
ALBERTA TACTICAL RIFLE A delrin plastic barrel cover with an exit hole that is just a little larger than bore diameter helps with this immensely. Essentially a muzzle cap that friction fits the outside of the barrel and extends an inch past the crown with a hole for the rod to pass through. Not sure how else to describe it.[/QUOTE said:
Where would one get this?
 
Where would one get this?

I made mine, the joys of owning a machine shop.
A simple version is to take a plastic cap like what comes on some spray bombs and cut a piece of blue styrene foam that fits inside of the cap but over the barrel, sort of like a donut to hold the cap onto the barrel, then dill a hole through the cap just a little larger than bore diameter for the jag to come out of.
Same principle, just cheap and low tech, but works the same.
 
You can reverse a nylon brush while still in the bore but not recommended for bronze brushes. So you could just get it halfway out of the bore then pull it backwards. Myself I would not worry about it and go all the way through. I use quality brushes with brass or copper center.
 
Taking the jag off exposes bare steel threads on the end of the rod, which can certainly do bad things to a bore.


depends on the type of rod you have, all mine are threaded intertally with the exposed threads on the jag

on a side note, i find it quite usefull to wipe my rod down every pass, especially on the first few initial passed, you would be surpised how much gunk can get by the patch and all over the rod
 
Fair enough, I should have used wording like "a lesser chance".
The point I was trying to make is that there are cheap cleaning kits that have steel rods, and even steel jags or loops. The coated rods and brass which is fairly soft has a much lesser chance to do damage if used correctly.

You just said copper and brass would " void the warranty of your rifle " which i have never really heard of. Now your pushing brass rods ? which i do agree with, but if you work for Alberta Tactical and your talking down copper brushes, well ... you havnt spent enough time at the range professor.

Im kind of taken back considering you have 1 of 3 shops in the entire country i would recomend anyone having work done at.
 
You just said copper and brass would " void the warranty of your rifle " which i have never really heard of. Now your pushing brass rods ? which i do agree with, but if you work for Alberta Tactical and your talking down copper brushes, well ... you havnt spent enough time at the range professor.

Im kind of taken back considering you have 1 of 3 shops in the entire country i would recomend anyone having work done at.

I believe you are misunderstanding me.

My comment of voiding the warranty has nothing to do with copper or brass.
It is the Bore Shine products that I was referring to. Many barrel makers are pretty serious about what NOT to use when cleaning their barrels, and "some" of the Bore Shine products contain fine abrasive which can damage the bore if not used very sparingly and only in particular situations.
Same goes for the fire lapping bullets, they are a quick way to void a barrel warranty.
More often than not the phosphor bronze (brass) brushes which are the most common brush material used will also dissolve with most copper solvents leading guys to assume that the bore is still fouled with copper as their patches are still blue, hence more scrubbing and more damage resulting.
 
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