Win 94 questions

mcp1

mcp1

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I've recently purchased a Win 94 in 30-30, crossing another "to do" off my bucket list. I do have a few questions about it though.

From what I've read online about "lever wobble" I may be missing a washer/spacer if someone took this apart at some point. If that isn't the case some people mention adding an extra spacer to tighten up the action. Has anyone done this?

Somewhat linked to the first question, some people say that taking apart AND reassembling the 94 can be an intensive process. I haven't had issues taking apart bolts and semi autos to this point, is the 94 much more difficult? If it is something better left to a seasoned pro, is there anyone people recommend? Also if there is anyone in MB who has experience taking apart and tweaking and putting together a 94 let me know!

Are there any quirks or issues I should watch for with a 94? I believe it was made in 1949 from the serial number. While I have preferred the 336 in the past I couldn't let this rifle go when the opportunity to purchase came up. As is, it is ready for hunting the thick stuff where a scope slows you down, and with some practice I believe it will prove to be a critter gitter. I'm saving once fired brass to work up some Deep Curl loads for hunting season so if anyone has thoughts there feel free to chime in!
 
the first thing i do is get an exploded diagram and map out what i have and haven't got piece by piece- there's a difference between pre-64 94's and post 94s- they might even be available on-line
 
Diagrams are available online. You need to be equipped with a GOOD screwdriver set so as not to pooch screws, and a set of flat-ended pin punches. Another help is a digital camera and a way to keep the removed screws separate and identifiable, which, since you have disassembled guns before, you already know.
I have disassembed and reassembled a couple of 94's before; rocket science it ain't! Nowhere as easy as a Marlin 336, but not difficult. Fear not.
\http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjPlLQf73gQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YebgrwpMXNI&feature=related
These videos are good.
 
I liked both of those videos. Also found an exploded schematic of the pre 64 94 to use as a reference in the future. It does look more complex than a marlin but I think I'll get it figured out!
 
From what I've read online about "lever wobble" I may be missing a washer/spacer if someone took this apart at some point. If that isn't the case some people mention adding an extra spacer to tighten up the action. Has anyone done this?
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I'm interested in where you read that, and WTH they are referring to.
The lever wobble most folks ##### about, is when the action is open... You don't shoot it when it's open.. Mausers wobble when their bolts are open too.
Every '94 I've ever owned, including some made in the early 1910's, some from the 40's, some from the 60's, and some from the 70's were a tad loose when open. As long as they are tight when closed, no issues.
 
Somewhat linked to the first question, some people say that taking apart AND reassembling the 94 can be an intensive process. I haven't had issues taking apart bolts and semi autos to this point, is the 94 much more difficult? If it is something better left to a seasoned pro, is there anyone people recommend? Also if there is anyone in MB who has experience taking apart and tweaking and putting together a 94 let me know!
Click to expand...
You may find it tricky the first time around, after that it's a breeze. There are enough of us here who have had them apart, that if you run into trouble just ask.
 
As with other tube fed guns, if it gets soaked, you probably should remove the magazine spring and clean/oil both it and the tube before putting it away for the season.
you will likely find if you are working thick bush that the open action design lets debris fall right through. I can handle a lot of crap.
However, dirt can accumulate in the recess at the back of the barrel for the extractor. If enough gets in there, it will stop the extractor from snapping over the cartridge rim. You usually will note this when extracting unfired cartridges, as firing will push the case back under the extractor.
 
I cant remember whether it AB outdoorsmen, 24HR Campfire or the firing line but I've been perusing quite a few sites and the thought came up more than once. Looking at the exploded diagram the only part I could think of would be 2994 (lever pin stop screw) or 3094 (lever link screw). There isn't a ridiculous and unbearable amount of wobble but I remember handling other 94's that seemed to have a more solid feel cycling the action. The time in between then and now could have clouded my memory, and searching for lever wobble fixes may be unnecessary.

I'm planning on going shooting again Sunday and bringing the 94. Hopefully one night next week I'll have time to disassemble and reassemble this classic beauty! Hopefully nothing goes wrong but if it does I'll be asking some questions!
 
the question is "was there a version of this rifle with sling swivels?"- if the answer is no, then anything "added" to the rifle will decrease the value; it also depends on whether or not it's an odd caliber and/or rare model and what condition it's in; if it's a "common" caliber( ie 30-30) and "common" wear and tear for that time, the addition of sling swivels, if done properly, will decrease minimally
 
Regardless of caliber DO NOT put sling swivels on it if it is a pre 64 94. As a Win collector I can tell you that I will NOT buy a 94 with swivels added but will always look at a pre 64 94 in all original condition. In my opinion adding swivels will reduce your market place by 50% as most collectors will not be interested. They will most certainly devalue the rifle.
94's are not difficult to disassemble and reassemble in the same day, but don't leave it in a box for a month or it will take you much longer to assemble.
 
the key words being WIN COLLECTOR- there are plenty of folks that wouldn't be as fussy- it's all about CONDITION and rarity
uncle mike's is the set i would use, and they're by far the most common- i should imagine the op intends to SHOOT and use this rifle, NOT A COLLECTOR PIECE
besides, the way round that is to get a stock/forearm that fits, and fit the sling swivels to that- basically, a pos wood - then when it comes to sell it, swap it back
a similar situatation would apply if one wished to put on a RECOIL PAD,if you find that crescent buttplate uncomfortable
 
mcp1 said:
I've recently purchased a Win 94 in 30-30, crossing another "to do" off my bucket list. I do have a few questions about it though.

From what I've read online about "lever wobble" I may be missing a washer/spacer if someone took this apart at some point. If that isn't the case some people mention adding an extra spacer to tighten up the action. Has anyone done this?

Somewhat linked to the first question, some people say that taking apart AND reassembling the 94 can be an intensive process. I haven't had issues taking apart bolts and semi autos to this point, is the 94 much more difficult? If it is something better left to a seasoned pro, is there anyone people recommend? Also if there is anyone in MB who has experience taking apart and tweaking and putting together a 94 let me know!

Are there any quirks or issues I should watch for with a 94? I believe it was made in 1949 from the serial number. While I have preferred the 336 in the past I couldn't let this rifle go when the opportunity to purchase came up. As is, it is ready for hunting the thick stuff where a scope slows you down, and with some practice I believe it will prove to be a critter gitter. I'm saving once fired brass to work up some Deep Curl loads for hunting season so if anyone has thoughts there feel free to chime in!
Click to expand...

Go here- www.downeastgunworks.com, sign up, watch video carefully, take it apart and put it back together at least 3 times. You may then consider yourself an "experienced" 94 owner.
Seriously, its not that bad to take one apart, but you need to have some patience and attention to detail to put it back together. Giv'er!!!!
 
t-star said:
the key words being WIN COLLECTOR- there are plenty of folks that wouldn't be as fussy- it's all about CONDITION and rarity
uncle mike's is the set i would use, and they're by far the most common- i should imagine the op intends to SHOOT and use this rifle, NOT A COLLECTOR PIECE
besides, the way round that is to get a stock/forearm that fits, and fit the sling swivels to that- basically, a pos wood - then when it comes to sell it, swap it back
a similar situatation would apply if one wished to put on a RECOIL PAD,if you find that crescent buttplate uncomfortable
Click to expand...

This is good advice, pick up some generic stock and put the swivels on it preserving the original walnut to retain collector value.
 
mcp1 said:
Also curious if adding sling swivels will decrease the value of this acquisition!
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I would say it depends on the condition of your Winchester. If it is in an immaculate condition, I wouldn't do anything on it, if it's a shooter though (has been modified, damaged, wood varnished, refinished etc.) do anything you want as it's lost its collecting value for ever. Why don't you post pictures?

OK
 
Downeastgunworks video on youtube was a big help. There are a few youtube videos that were absolutely useless though!

Does anyone use a sling that doesn't need swivels? I've seen them around but never tried using one. I looked at some synthetic stocks at Cabelas the other day... anyone have a source for wood versions?

And I have to say Yogi's link is one everyone should check out!
 
the whole point of using a sling swivel stud is so you can dismount it when you don't want it, and so that the sling loop doesn't mark up your wood- the military uses a mounted sling swivel b/c they don't don't give a --- about the gun, and that you don't want the sling dismounting at an inopportune time- much the same thing is accomplished with a super swivel- it locks in place- now, i've also native ( ie first nations) 94's with nothing more than a string drilled through the stock and tied to the other end -
there's also folks that use a couple of loops
 
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