I am new to reloading. I just tried to reload my first batch of once fired 303.I bought a lee 50th ann. set, and a set of lee dies. The die set has a neck sizer, full sizer. and a bullet depth setting die. I neck sized the brass because i will be firing in the same rifle. I then used the priming tool to reprime them. I added powder then tried to put in the 150 gram, .311 sierra bullets. They all went in very easily and fell down onto the powder. I tried the last die and it just pushed the bullet all the way in. Do I need another die? I see lee sells a die that puts a factory crimp on the brass. Do I need this die? I am very disappointed with the reloading thing. Please help. Thank you.
I need help with 303 reloading problem
- Thread starter hardek
- Start date
No, the factory crimp is optional. Its usually required or preferred for high abuse use. Such as in semi auto pistols and rifles. Or for cartridges you rather control the crimp more carefully with.
For your enfield you wont need it. You can do some adjusting with your bullet seating die to prevent the bullet from shifting.
For your enfield you wont need it. You can do some adjusting with your bullet seating die to prevent the bullet from shifting.
Sounds like your sizing die is not set up properly if the bullet is falling right into the case. If memory serves me correctly, for a Lee collet neck die you first raise the ram all the way, then screw the die in until it touches the shellholder. Next you lower the ram, and screw the die in another turn, then lock the die with the locknut. This is by memory, the instructions that came with the dies should also explain this.
The way you state it, the neck sizer just isn't sizing the neck. There should be nothing more to do in that respect, than what you are doing.
If you are putting the case through the sizer, but it is not sizing, the die must be defective.
Try the full length resizer.
If you are putting the case through the sizer, but it is not sizing, the die must be defective.
Try the full length resizer.
Use the full length sizer, but adjust it so it does not hit the shell holder. Adjust it so at full stroke it misses the shell holder by the thickness of a nickle coin. this will size the neck but not size the body/shoulder very much, if any. use some lube.
The bullets will then have lots of neck tension and won't fall into the case.
The bullets will then have lots of neck tension and won't fall into the case.
- Location
- Winnipeg,Man.
I would suggest full length resizing on any new brass. due to rough handling and manufacturing practices, the casings may not all be the same shape. Follow the instructions to a tee . handle down, die adjusted down to almost touch casing holder and lock in place. sparingly little lube and do not over exert the pressure, when the die bottoms out, the resizing should be finished.
Northman999
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Yukon
Not sure if your neck sizer is a collet neck sizer, but the collet sizers are very finicky to get working. Once you get them tuned, the work pretty well, but they can be a real PITA to work. Lots of guys (like me) think they got defective ones out of the box, as they appear to do nothing at all until they are tuned.
My experience, if using Lee collet dies, is you need to:
-Anneal your brass
-Sand down the mandrel a fair bit in a portable drill
-Size the necks twice each, with a twist in between each sizing, so the die hits the case necks a bit differently both times.
If you are not using a collet sizer, then either your die is not set right or is defective, and the FL sizer should be tried.
My experience, if using Lee collet dies, is you need to:
-Anneal your brass
-Sand down the mandrel a fair bit in a portable drill
-Size the necks twice each, with a twist in between each sizing, so the die hits the case necks a bit differently both times.
If you are not using a collet sizer, then either your die is not set right or is defective, and the FL sizer should be tried.
I would suggest you Full Length size the brass all the way by the book. Once you get the hang of it and are making good ammo venture into partial sizing and neck sizing. Chances are the Lee Collet die is good but is either not set up properly or the handle of the press isn't being pulled hard enough to size the case neck/mouth. There was a great post recently here on setting them up, and many find after they size it they turn the case 180 degrees and do it again.
The Rifle type Factory Crimp dies are nice and I have some but there are many people who do not crimp any of their ammo and it works fine (magnum revolvers and lever action tube mags aside). You don't need a Factory Crimp die unless you want one.
The Rifle type Factory Crimp dies are nice and I have some but there are many people who do not crimp any of their ammo and it works fine (magnum revolvers and lever action tube mags aside). You don't need a Factory Crimp die unless you want one.
Not to derail the OP, but I have been using Lee collet neck dies in 30-30, .308 win, and 30-06, and I have not had to do any of these things. And yes, I am getting good neck tension, and very concentric bullets.
As far as sanding the mandrel, what good will that do other than maybe get you .001 more neck tension ? The collet only closes so much.
Well - Since your brass is already once fired, you are obliged to use the FL sizing die to get the whole case back into spec. If you want to get fancy, you can partially resize the case as per Ganderites post, but you'll have to check the empty case for fit in the chamber before continuing with the loading process.
Come on guys - the brass was fired in this rifle. If you full length size it, you will probably lose 25% of it to head separation. Either the die is incorrectly set up or it's defective. I use collet dies in 30 06,308Win, 6.5x55,.257Rob and .30 30 with no problems. Just screw the die down until the neck tension is sufficient. If that doesn't work, call Lee.
Grouch
Grouch
"Come on guys - the brass was fired in this rifle." That was not expressly stated on the OP's post. If it was fired in another rifle, then there exists the requirement to ensure the case will fit in the chamber ie resizing with the FL die.
As far as case life is concerned, you should read about the o-ring method to avoid case stretch at the web. Since it was already once fired, its already got one foot in the grave.
As far as case life is concerned, you should read about the o-ring method to avoid case stretch at the web. Since it was already once fired, its already got one foot in the grave.
Northman999
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Yukon
Until I sanded down the mandrel .006 (!!!!) I could basically push in bullets with my thumb.
Innovative
Regular
- Location
- Casselberry, Florida
There are a whole lot of rifles that have an extremely wide variation in 303 chamber size. However, it is easy to handload for any chamber if you use a good comparator. Read up on the Digital Headspace Gauge.
It works on ALL different calibers, and it helps set your die height accurately enough to make perfect handloads. There's no need to guess at how your handloads fit. Enjoy handloading.
It works on ALL different calibers, and it helps set your die height accurately enough to make perfect handloads. There's no need to guess at how your handloads fit. Enjoy handloading.
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
Just one thing, I hope you realize the huge difference between grams and grains, and that your post was a typo.
I just removed the mandrel from my Lee neck sizer all together. It works fine without it so long as you carefully control the amount of sizing it does. You can put it too far and collapse shoulders when trying to seat but when set right I haven't had an issue after a couple hundred rounds.
It was also a Lee .303 British die that I had the same issues with. I just removed the mandrel, set the die so it just touched the shell holder, and continued to turn it 1/16 of a turn testing after each turn to see if a sized shell was snug on a .311 projectile or not.
It was also a Lee .303 British die that I had the same issues with. I just removed the mandrel, set the die so it just touched the shell holder, and continued to turn it 1/16 of a turn testing after each turn to see if a sized shell was snug on a .311 projectile or not.
I've never had these problems with any of my Lee Neck dies. If it bullet is too loose, I just tighten the die down a bit more and it's good.
If you followed the Lee instructions verbatim, then it's possible it's just not set low enough. Turn it in a bit more, if you haven't tried that already.
I admit to only skimming this thread.
If you followed the Lee instructions verbatim, then it's possible it's just not set low enough. Turn it in a bit more, if you haven't tried that already.
I admit to only skimming this thread.
Innovative
Regular
- Location
- Casselberry, Florida
Conte ........
That is what most reloaders think. They can just lower their sizing die more, and it will resize the case a bit more. However, this is what happens:
When an over-resized case gets resized too many times, the brass stretches too much when it's fired, and the case wall becomes paper thin. This causes case head separations.
The 303 cartridge headspaces on the rim. However, handloaders MUST pay attention to shoulder clearance. Unlike factory loads, your handloads should have .001" to .002" shoulder clearance to minimize repetitive case stretching.
Check out the homepage of my website, and you'll see how I measure chamber clearance in ALL different rifle calibers.
That is what most reloaders think. They can just lower their sizing die more, and it will resize the case a bit more. However, this is what happens:
When an over-resized case gets resized too many times, the brass stretches too much when it's fired, and the case wall becomes paper thin. This causes case head separations.
The 303 cartridge headspaces on the rim. However, handloaders MUST pay attention to shoulder clearance. Unlike factory loads, your handloads should have .001" to .002" shoulder clearance to minimize repetitive case stretching.
Check out the homepage of my website, and you'll see how I measure chamber clearance in ALL different rifle calibers.
