annealing brass
- Thread starter mad max78
- Start date
Number of firings depends on what your shooting. 45-70 black powder loadings and 300 RUM are in two completely different categories when it comes to brass wear and tear(and work hardening).
For standard things like 308/30-06/270 etc etc somewhere in the 4-6 is average depending on how hot the loadings are. Annealing will extend brass life by reducing split necks caused by work hardening the brass during sizing and firing. It will not affect things like primer pocket expansion or case head separation.
*cheers*
For standard things like 308/30-06/270 etc etc somewhere in the 4-6 is average depending on how hot the loadings are. Annealing will extend brass life by reducing split necks caused by work hardening the brass during sizing and firing. It will not affect things like primer pocket expansion or case head separation.
*cheers*
I anneal. Every 3rd firing as per something I read somewhere.
I loose brass from head wear before my necks split.
I've gotten up to 18 firings out of 308 before I "retire" it. Some batches I would trust to load again.
I've gotten so far 24 firings from 223.
The rest of my calibers haven't seen enough firing yet.
I primarily neck size so that adds to the life also.
It's tricky to learn at first, as it's all about timing. The down side of annealing, is if you have a batch and your timing was off from case to case, then you can get inconsistent neck tension and it can compromise your groups if you're going for accuracy.
The other downside, is a freshly annealed cases can fire somewhat differently, from one that's had a few firings since annealing.
So, there can be, in my case, an accuracy vs. longevity tradeoff. As I don't have a precision target rifle, and the rifles I do have can often shoot better then me, I currently opt for longevity.
If you're interest in trying it out, you don't really need special tools.
I just use lee shell holders for their case length cutting system for rimmed cases.
For 223 and 308, I use a high speed cordless drill with a brake and a 1/2" chuck.
The cases will fit right into the chuck. I snug them in loosely, anneal, and cause the drill is high speed with a break, as soon as I left of the trigger the spin suddenly stops, the chuck spins open and the case drops out.
For small cases like 223, I drop them into water, then put them in this little toaster oven I have set for 4 minutes to dry them off. They aren't dry after 4 mins, I let the oven cool, then they are usually dry. It's a tricky way to dry them, took a lot of tinkering and timing to figure out how to do it jsut right without overheating the cases.
For larger cases like 308, I just drop them into a thick double lined cardboard box.
The larger cases are big enough they won't over heat if you are doing it right, and aren't hot enough to set the box on fire, if you're doing it right.
The high speed action of my drill also serves to help keep the head area cool while annealing.
I loose brass from head wear before my necks split.
I've gotten up to 18 firings out of 308 before I "retire" it. Some batches I would trust to load again.
I've gotten so far 24 firings from 223.
The rest of my calibers haven't seen enough firing yet.
I primarily neck size so that adds to the life also.
It's tricky to learn at first, as it's all about timing. The down side of annealing, is if you have a batch and your timing was off from case to case, then you can get inconsistent neck tension and it can compromise your groups if you're going for accuracy.
The other downside, is a freshly annealed cases can fire somewhat differently, from one that's had a few firings since annealing.
So, there can be, in my case, an accuracy vs. longevity tradeoff. As I don't have a precision target rifle, and the rifles I do have can often shoot better then me, I currently opt for longevity.
If you're interest in trying it out, you don't really need special tools.
I just use lee shell holders for their case length cutting system for rimmed cases.
For 223 and 308, I use a high speed cordless drill with a brake and a 1/2" chuck.
The cases will fit right into the chuck. I snug them in loosely, anneal, and cause the drill is high speed with a break, as soon as I left of the trigger the spin suddenly stops, the chuck spins open and the case drops out.
For small cases like 223, I drop them into water, then put them in this little toaster oven I have set for 4 minutes to dry them off. They aren't dry after 4 mins, I let the oven cool, then they are usually dry. It's a tricky way to dry them, took a lot of tinkering and timing to figure out how to do it jsut right without overheating the cases.
For larger cases like 308, I just drop them into a thick double lined cardboard box.
The larger cases are big enough they won't over heat if you are doing it right, and aren't hot enough to set the box on fire, if you're doing it right.
The high speed action of my drill also serves to help keep the head area cool while annealing.
Annealing brass
If you are shooting the NORMAL calibers, you don't need to anneal the brass. once brass shows signs of splitting garabage it and start over with new brass. I've annealled brass when forming to another caliber, other than that it's not needed.
Bill
If you are shooting the NORMAL calibers, you don't need to anneal the brass. once brass shows signs of splitting garabage it and start over with new brass. I've annealled brass when forming to another caliber, other than that it's not needed.
Bill
How many firings do you get out of your non annealed brass ?
I've never not annealed since I started loading years ago, so I don't have any data on that subject. I admit, I'm not even sure if I need to or not, I just do and get results I like, so I continue to do so.
I never anneal my .308 Lapua brass. I started off with 1800 cases and I am down to about 1700 now, after 4 barrels worth of shooting. I have culled cases that the primer pockets were a little loose and have only tossed 1, (one) case due to a split neck.
I use bushings dies and when I run the neck into the bushing I could feel if the necks are keeping their form or springing back a little. When it springs back and not holding form I anneal the brass. I find like others here Lapua brass doesn't need to be anneal as often or sooner.
Number of fireings
This spring at a shoot this subject came up. How many fireings from a brass.
One fellow did this a number of years back, used a 308 loaded with a mid pressure load, he got into the 70's before the brass had to be turffed.
I'm sure that was the exception to the rule of when to turff brass. Goes to show the annealing is not the normal process on brass fired a few times.
Bill
This spring at a shoot this subject came up. How many fireings from a brass.
One fellow did this a number of years back, used a 308 loaded with a mid pressure load, he got into the 70's before the brass had to be turffed.
I'm sure that was the exception to the rule of when to turff brass. Goes to show the annealing is not the normal process on brass fired a few times.
Bill
I have some 6mm brass that is on it's 15th reloading. I have never annealed it, and I have not experienced any issues with it as yet.
Most of the loads fired in this brass have been full-house loads, as well.
It is some older WW - Super brass.
First split neck shows up...out it goes!!
I have no time to bother annealing it.
Eagleye
Most of the loads fired in this brass have been full-house loads, as well.
It is some older WW - Super brass.
First split neck shows up...out it goes!!
I have no time to bother annealing it.
Eagleye
