depriming an FTF

IronCanadian

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So I did up my first batch of hand loads Friday night and out to the range Saturday with the Garand to do some shooting.

Using Remington primers in Lake City brass loaded with IMR-4895 and topped with Hornady 150gr SP things went fairly well.

During the course of shooting 50 hand loads I had 5 Fail to Fire on the first try, of those 5 loads 3 fired when tried a second time, but 2 just wouldn't fire.

I've pulled those two rounds and dumped the powder, but I just don't know the best method for de-priming the cases. I live in a Condo, so de-priming in the press and "just hoping their not live" might not work out to well if one goes bang.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 
Deprime same as you would a fired primer.

It takes a sharp blow to make a primer go off. I have deprimed hundereds of live primers with nary an issue.

Even gave the press some extra "oomph" one day just to see if I could nake one go off....nada.
 
I've deprimed quite a few FTF as per I normally would any other already fired primer with no problem. Just go right ahead, you'll have no trouble.
 
i dont remove the crimp on some factory once fired 223 cause im lazy and i just jam the new primer in there so i dont waste time. out of 100 primers ill crush maybe 1. Just run it in the press nice and slow and the mangled live primer will pop right out np.
 
Any idea what caused the failure to fire situation?

Unfortunately no, the rifle is new to me and It's my first go at hand loading. So I'm not sure if the rifle has a weak firing pin, if the primers were bad or if I just messed them up.

I loaded 45 .30-30 rounds with the same primers so I'll see if I get any FTF out of them.

I'm also going to try CCI primers in my next batch of Garand loads and see what happens.

Thanks for all the information. :cheers:
 
It could be the primers were not set deep enough. I've had it happen before and no matter how many times I try to fire it, it doesn't. The anvil gets moved enough to stop it.

Thats my guess anyhow.
 
You can soak them in wd 40 if you like, but as above, I've never had an issue with depriming live ones.

I used to believe this was a good idea as well.

WD-40 does not deactivate primers reliably, even if left for weeks. A friend of mine made a half dozen .45 ACP rounds with new primers and a generous squirt of WD-40 in each case with a 200gr SWC seated on top. Several weeks later he was fondling a newly acquired 1911 and loaded the mag with his home made snap caps. racked the slide and squeezed the trigger and there was a nice loud pop and whole lot of smoke. The 200gr DRG was firmly lodged in the barrel about an inch from the muzzle. Not only was the primer still functional, the WD-40 dieseled the bullet 4" down the barrel.
 
Unfortunately no, the rifle is new to me and It's my first go at hand loading. So I'm not sure if the rifle has a weak firing pin, if the primers were bad or if I just messed them up.

I loaded 45 .30-30 rounds with the same primers so I'll see if I get any FTF out of them.

I'm also going to try CCI primers in my next batch of Garand loads and see what happens.

Thanks for all the information. :cheers:

When loading for the Garand primers need to be seated slightly below flush with the case head to avoid the possibility of the bolt face making direct contact with the primer during feeding and chambering. Correct firing pin protrusion from the bolt face is an issue. There are max/mins for this which can be checked with a gauge. There is a possibility that crud has accumulated inside the bolt which might be preventing the firing pin from going as far forward as it should. It is worth stripping the bolt to clean both the firing pin and the bolt interior. You might post a pic of the case heads to show primer strikes on both fired and unfired cases. I've fired a lot of Garand handloads with Rem primers with no problems. Another issue might be oil contamination of the primers as this percentage of failures just isn't normal.
 
Oh no, a newb starting out with a Garand. Maybe it would be a good idea for the OP to visit Fulton Armory's website. No, it would be an excellent idea for the OP to visit Fulton Armory's website. NOW.

Stick to your .30-30 'til you understand the discussion on Fulton's.
 
Oh no, a newb starting out with a Garand. Maybe it would be a good idea for the OP to visit Fulton Armory's website. No, it would be an excellent idea for the OP to visit Fulton Armory's website. NOW.

Stick to your .30-30 'til you understand the discussion on Fulton's.

OP doesn't need to "stick to his 30-30" and there's no reason for you to be a #### about it.
 
I used to believe this was a good idea as well.

WD-40 does not deactivate primers reliably, even if left for weeks. A friend of mine made a half dozen .45 ACP rounds with new primers and a generous squirt of WD-40 in each case with a 200gr SWC seated on top. Several weeks later he was fondling a newly acquired 1911 and loaded the mag with his home made snap caps. racked the slide and squeezed the trigger and there was a nice loud pop and whole lot of smoke. The 200gr DRG was firmly lodged in the barrel about an inch from the muzzle. Not only was the primer still functional, the WD-40 dieseled the bullet 4" down the barrel.

your buddy is an idiot it seems... use a spent primer

who would actually try that at home.... some people shouldnt own guns
 
I think I read in the Lee Manual that you need to be careful not to press the primer in too far. You apparently should develop a feel for the primer bottoming out in the primer pocket, and stop pressing it in. Don't remember the technical detail of what happens when you do press it in too far or too hard.
Also, Gunnutz, how long do you wait before opening the action on a misfire? 10 seconds? 2 minutes?
Thanks.
 
your buddy is an idiot it seems... use a spent primer

who would actually try that at home.... some people shouldnt own guns

I can't say that I disagree with you. I wouldn't go so far as to call him an idiot though, you also just called John Y Cannuck an Idiot as well.

The point of my post was not to flame my buddy, it was to point out that WD-40 will not deactivate a primer as is stated on this board every week. People read here every day that you can use oil or WD-40 to neutralize primers safely and it just isn't true. He had bought new primed brass and made his "dummy" rounds learning how to setup his press without charging the cases. He took the time to "research" how to deactivate the primer safely and found his answers here on CGN.

Me personally, I do not own a single snap cap, dummy round or otherwise, all ammo is treated as live. All my dry firing is done on an empty chamber with the exception of rimfires which do not get dry fired ever.
 
Oh no, a newb starting out with a Garand. Maybe it would be a good idea for the OP to visit Fulton Armory's website. No, it would be an excellent idea for the OP to visit Fulton Armory's website. NOW.

Stick to your .30-30 'til you understand the discussion on Fulton's.

Ok bud, thanks for the advice. :rolleyes:
 
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