Revolver Suggestion

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djmay71

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Howdy.

Since 9mm revolvers are few and far between, I think I'll go for a revolver in a traditional revolver round like 357 or something similar (like 38 or one of its variations).
But I don't know much about revolvers so I figured I might as well ask you guys.
Like I said, something 357 or 38 would be ideal, but I'd be willing to go another route. As well, I have a $700 cap.
 
djmay71 said:
Howdy.

Since 9mm revolvers are few and far between, I think I'll go for a revolver in a traditional revolver round like 357 or something similar (like 38 or one of its variations).
But I don't know much about revolvers so I figured I might as well ask you guys.
Like I said, something 357 or 38 would be ideal, but I'd be willing to go another route. As well, I have a $700 cap.
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Ruger GP100, i like the 4.2 inch barrel but there are 6 inch ones available. You cant go wrong with that gun. Cheaper then the smith and by all reviews ive read built much tougher. Shoots both .357 and .38 special.
 
Then it's time to let you know about the origin of the .357Mag round. The .357Mag is simply a stretched version of the .38Spl. It's a measely 0.1 inch longer simply to prevent you being able to load .357Mag rounds into a .38Spl only revolver. But because the two rounds are the exact same in every other respect but length .38Spl is perfectly fine to shoot from a .357Mag revolver. You simply need to set the sights to suit the point of impact produced by the different recoil of the softer round.

So whichever gun you get be sure it has adjustable sights so you can tune your aim to match the rounds you shoot. That gives you the option of shooting either round and any weight of bullet.

I've tried both Rugers and S&W's. For double action revolvers I prefer the S&W trigger despite the fact that I'm a happy Ruger owner as well.

For myself I LOVE the fit and feel of the slightly lighter and smaller K frame S&W's such as the Model 19, 66 and other numbers from that series. But these guns are at their best if shot mostly with reduced loads over the long haul and only a few full house magnums now and then. The blued K frame magnums are known to have an issue with the lighter weight bullets in Magnum rounds. The 110 and perhaps some 125gn options in full power can produce cracks in the blued K frame gun barrel forcing cones. But if you shoot the "proper" 158gn ammo then there are no issues. But still, the lighter built K frames are at their best with slightly reduced loads or mostly .38Spl.

The L frame S&W's are the 586 and 686. The "6" series in S&W numbering indicates stainless steel guns. So the 586 in this case is their blued L frame. The L frames are a touch bigger than the K frames and can digest a steady diet of full house Magnum rounds if your hands and wrists can handle it.

For reference the usual comparison of the L frame is to the Ruger GP100 for size and weight.

Then there are the N frame guns such as the Model 27 and 28. And these days there's some 627's. The older 27 and 28 are six shot heavy duty guns. You can shoot full house magnums all day from these guns and smile the whole time. They are a little bigger and heavier again than the L frame which is why they do so nicely at soaking up the recoil.

As a side note the N frame is also the frame size of Dirty Harry's .44Mag. The N frame also comes chambered in .45Colt

Some of the newer N frame 627 series are found with 7 and 8 shot cylinders. Some enjoy this added capacity. But be aware that if you plan on shooting in matches that many rules only allow 6 rounds for revolver. You can use the 7 and 8 round guns but you may only load 6 chambers. Needless to say finding the two "empties" would be annoying during such shooting. So if you even THINK you will want to shoot your gun in any matches at some point stick with a good ol' 6 gun model.
 
BCRider said:
Then it's time to let you know about the origin of the .357Mag round. The .357Mag is simply a stretched version of the .38Spl. It's a measely 0.1 inch longer simply to prevent you being able to load .357Mag rounds into a .38Spl only revolver. But because the two rounds are the exact same in every other respect but length .38Spl is perfectly fine to shoot from a .357Mag revolver. You simply need to set the sights to suit the point of impact produced by the different recoil of the softer round.

So whichever gun you get be sure it has adjustable sights so you can tune your aim to match the rounds you shoot. That gives you the option of shooting either round and any weight of bullet.

I've tried both Rugers and S&W's. For double action revolvers I prefer the S&W trigger despite the fact that I'm a happy Ruger owner as well.

For myself I LOVE the fit and feel of the slightly lighter and smaller K frame S&W's such as the Model 19, 66 and other numbers from that series. But these guns are at their best if shot mostly with reduced loads over the long haul and only a few full house magnums now and then. The blued K frame magnums are known to have an issue with the lighter weight bullets in Magnum rounds. The 110 and perhaps some 125gn options in full power can produce cracks in the blued K frame gun barrel forcing cones. But if you shoot the "proper" 158gn ammo then there are no issues. But still, the lighter built K frames are at their best with slightly reduced loads or mostly .38Spl.

The L frame S&W's are the 586 and 686. The "6" series in S&W numbering indicates stainless steel guns. So the 586 in this case is their blued L frame. The L frames are a touch bigger than the K frames and can digest a steady diet of full house Magnum rounds if your hands and wrists can handle it.

For reference the usual comparison of the L frame is to the Ruger GP100 for size and weight.

Then there are the N frame guns such as the Model 27 and 28. And these days there's some 627's. The older 27 and 28 are six shot heavy duty guns. You can shoot full house magnums all day from these guns and smile the whole time. They are a little bigger and heavier again than the L frame which is why they do so nicely at soaking up the recoil.

As a side note the N frame is also the frame size of Dirty Harry's .44Mag. The N frame also comes chambered in .45Colt

Some of the newer N frame 627 series are found with 7 and 8 shot cylinders. Some enjoy this added capacity. But be aware that if you plan on shooting in matches that many rules only allow 6 rounds for revolver. You can use the 7 and 8 round guns but you may only load 6 chambers. Needless to say finding the two "empties" would be annoying during such shooting. So if you even THINK you will want to shoot your gun in any matches at some point stick with a good ol' 6 gun model.
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Thanks for all the info. I do like Clint's sidearm in the Dirty Harry movies, but I don't think I will ever shoot 44mag again. (Shot one in my ART course, and heck, that thing was unwieldy)

Any N frames chambered in 357/38?
 
Perhaps You want to find out first if the revolvers are something that You'll enjoy. Lot of the people I know were turned off by the heavy and long trigger pull. Maybe renting one would be your best bet first? Personally I much prefer a wheelgun over any auto, but usually it's the other way around with most of the people. Stick with 22 lr or 38 Special until you'll master the platform. I'm finding 4" barrel revolvers the best balanced in my hand. Good luck!
 
Nestor said:
Perhaps You want to find out first if the revolvers are something that You'll enjoy. Lot of the people I know were turned off by the heavy and long trigger pull. Maybe renting one would be your best bet first? Personally I much prefer a wheelgun over any auto, but usually it's the other way around with most of the people. Stick with 22 lr or 38 Special until you'll master the platform. I'm finding 4" barrel revolvers the best balanced in my hand. Good luck!
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I've shot a few, and I found that I like them. They are a nice change of pace from the autos.
I was looking around on SFRC's website and I found the Taurus Model 66. Anybody have experience with it? I know that most Taurus' are copycats, but what about this one?
 
Can't tell you much about the Rugers, but I'd say the S&W 586/686's are a great choice and good lightly used 6" barrelled examples show up in the EE regularly.
 
djmay71 said:
I've shot a few, and I found that I like them. They are a nice change of pace from the autos.
I was looking around on SFRC's website and I found the Taurus Model 66. Anybody have experience with it? I know that most Taurus' are copycats, but what about this one?
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Good. I wasn't sure of your preferences.
Taurus is making some controversial quality autos and pretty decent revolvers.
I never tried any Taurus wheelgun, so I'm just referring to the other's people experience. Being in your shoes I would be on a lookout for a used, but not abused S&W model 10 or 14. Model 17 would be even cheaper to run (22 lr).
Nicest trigger out there (I'm always shooting DA, so for me it's quite important). Ruger GP 100 is a nice gun, but not as nice as the older S&W's.
 
djmay71 said:
Thanks for all the info. I do like Clint's sidearm in the Dirty Harry movies, but I don't think I will ever shoot 44mag again. (Shot one in my ART course, and heck, that thing was unwieldy)

Any N frames chambered in 357/38?
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I suppose I didn't make it quite clear enough but the 27 and 28 and that 627 are all in .357Mag. The Dirty Harry gun in .44Mag is the Model 29. And that .45Colt model is the Model 25. Different chamberings but they all have the use of the same "N" frame for the base frame design and outer cylinder dimensions.
 
I do not have a S&W 357, but I do have a 5inch barrelled S&W Heavy Duty N frame in 38 Special made in 1940 and sent to the BCPP.
When you swivel the cylinder open, it's something to see all of the thick metal between those six 38 calibre chamber holes!
It's a real pussycat to shoot normal pressure and even +P 38 loads in it.
 
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this....... a 686 "Canadian" a few dollars more if you can find one, but well worth it.

686.jpg
 
Nestor said:
Good. I wasn't sure of your preferences.
Taurus is making some controversial quality autos and pretty decent revolvers.
I never tried any Taurus wheelgun, so I'm just referring to the other's people experience. Being in your shoes I would be on a lookout for a used, but not abused S&W model 10 or 14. Model 17 would be even cheaper to run (22 lr).
Nicest trigger out there (I'm always shooting DA, so for me it's quite important). Ruger GP 100 is a nice gun, but not as nice as the older S&W's.
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DAY would be awesome as bonus points, but SA is true revolver action.
 
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