How much MOA do I need?

S

Squibloads

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have a new Hunter Stainless Tikka T3 lite in 30-06...I want to try some 175-190 gr match bullets out to a thousand yards...

I am not going into competition...and am doing this for my own pleasure as a hobby...

But I do need a scope and I am looking at Bushnell Elites (Tactical) the fixed 10x and the 6-15x I believe...

What will I need in MOA to reach out to a 1000+...

Thanks
 
I'll start the bidding @ 1...

All jokes aside, it's not so much "how much do I need?" but more so "how much do I have?"...

And for 1000m shots (we're in Canada), you most definately will need an optic.

As with anything, usually the more you spend the better quality you get.

;)

[youtube]VA2PZBD5Tjg[/youtube]
 
This might be helpful... but double check. I found it on the interweb. For 1000 yards.
Berger 168vld: MV 2800fps, 36.2 moa drop, 8.5 moa windage, 1320 fps

Berger 190vld: MV 2600fps, 35.5 moa drop, 7.9 moa windage, 1335 fps

Berger 210vld: MV 2475fps, 37.7 moa drop, 7.5 moa windage, 1340fps

SMK 200g: MV 2500fps, 39.8 moa drop, 8.8 moa windage, 1245fps

SMK 220g: MV 2450fps, 39.1 moa drop, 7.9 moa windage, 1298fps

SMK 240g: MV 2200fps, 46.9 moa drop, 8.0 moa windage, 1237fps

Nosler 180 E-tip: MV 2700fps, 34.9 moa drop, 8.7 moa windage, 1290fps
 
Well the 6-15x power bushnell has 50Moa and thats only 25 up correct...?

So I need something like a canted 20MOA base which would give me 10MOA up for a total of 35MOA...? Would that just make it...

I'm thinkin' I'm gonna need some wiggle room...!:eek:
 
Boomer74 said:
I'll start the bidding @ 1...

All jokes aside, it's not so much "how much do I need?" but more so "how much do I have?"...

And for 1000m shots (we're in Canada), you most definately will need an optic.

As with anything, usually the more you spend the better quality you get.

;)

[youtube]VA2PZBD5Tjg[/youtube]
Click to expand...

Well I gots nothin' yet...and I'm old school before "Trudeau" so I still shoot at 1000yds....and I know that you got to spend bucks to get quality...I don't have the cash for a ZEISS...:eek: I just want to muck around shooting steel plates out a grand...

I am just trying to get enough info so that at least I can get "out there"...
 
Squibloads said:
Well the 6-15x power bushnell has 50Moa and thats only 25 up correct...?

So I need something like a canted 20MOA base which would give me 10MOA up for a total of 35MOA...? Would that just make it...

I'm thinkin' I'm gonna need some wiggle room...!:eek:
Click to expand...

If the scope has 50 MOA total elevation and you have 25 MOA on a 0 can't base of usable adjustment, if you add a 20 MOA base that gives you 20 more usable MOA of elevation. So 45 MOA of adjustment, not 35. So that should get you there.
 
c4pyro said:
If the scope has 50 MOA total elevation and you have 25 MOA on a 0 can't base of usable adjustment, if you add a 20 MOA base that gives you 20 more usable MOA of elevation. So 45 MOA of adjustment, not 35. So that should get you there.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info...I'd hate to buy a scope and then learn I have to hold over four or five feet to make a shot...

That Millet scope sounds more like in my price range I'll check that out as well...

Thanks
 
Remington country said:
I would look into the 5.5-22x56 NR2 Zero Stop from nightforce I have the same scope on my 300RUM love the scope at 1000yrds it looks like 200 on my old scopes.

My 2 cents
Click to expand...

Around 600ish is my max...I am just dipping my big toe in the pool and am in no hurry to dive in just yet;)

The scope you are describing sounds like it is worth a few shamolies...!
 
Couple of things to keep in mind from my experiences (all IMO and generalizations that may not always apply across the board):

What a scope maker says they have in terms of adjustment and what the scope actually gives you aren't always the same (often less).

Your receiver and or base may eat up some elevation if they aren't perfect from the factory.

Scopes perform worse optically when they're maxed out.

Ballistics programs will get you close, but you won't find out how much elevation you need until you toss it out there. Light conditions and wind direction can add a minute here or there at 1000yards/m.

It sucks running out of elevation.

Moral of the story - get as much as you can. And/or get a reticle that allows for accurate hold over when turret maxes out. I number of years back I was excited to get a Bushnell scope. And then it ran out of elevation.

I've had success with canted bases and Burris zee rings with inserts.
 
GSoD said:
Couple of things to keep in mind from my experiences (all IMO and generalizations that may not always apply across the board):

What a scope maker says they have in terms of adjustment and what the scope actually gives you aren't always the same (often less).

Your receiver and or base may eat up some elevation if they aren't perfect from the factory.

Scopes perform worse optically when they're maxed out.

Ballistics programs will get you close, but you won't find out how much elevation you need until you toss it out there. Light conditions and wind direction can add a minute here or there at 1000yards/m.

It sucks running out of elevation.

Moral of the story - get as much as you can. And/or get a reticle that allows for accurate hold over when turret maxes out. I number of years back I was excited to get a Bushnell scope. And then it ran out of elevation.

I've had success with canted bases and Burris zee rings with inserts.
Click to expand...

After reading from one of the posters here on the Millet LRS 6-25x...it has 140MOA built into the scope...! That should take care of any issues in elevation I am thinking....

You bring up alot of good points....it would be also nice to be able to hit at 100yds also...and with a regular base and 140MOA I should be in the money...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom