Grouse & 20ga. shotgun~best barrel length/shot size/choke?

.22LRGUY

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Hey guys, I've finally tracked-down a spare barrel for my 20ga. Wingmaster (large frame) and since it's the identical length/choke as my current barrel, my plan was/is to have it cut to a more manageable length for short shots in thick cover. A friend of mine had the identical gun up until recently, had the barrel cut to 22", and shot #6 for grouse. In fact, he sent me photos of the patterns he got with it @ 10m and 15m~pretty compelling argument for duplicating that set-up.

I'm toying with the idea of getting the barrel threaded for choke tubes too, but may start with shooting it open @ the 22" length. Any thoughts? Anyone shoot open chokes (from any gun) in barrels that are shorter than 22"? What shot size? The barrels are both currently 28", fixed/modified.

Lastly~I was going to simply have ti re-beaded with a standard brass bead, but my buddy had a Tru Glo fiber optic sight front sight on his and swore by it. Anybody here use those for grouse?

Thanks for taking a moment to respond.
 
If you are wingshooting in close cover the cylinder bore is fine. If you are blasting sitting or walking birds (unsporting, I know) along old woods roads the choke tubes are the way to go. I always used 1 oz. loads with 7 1/2 shot for partridge, worked fine for me.
 
A short barrel is ideal for grouse hunting. Personally I don't like cutting bbl's but its a cost effective of getting the gun you want. 6 or 7.5 shot is ideal as well, I favour 7.5 early season and 6 later when shots may be longer. The problem with cutting your barrel is that you will end up with a cylinder bore gun that will require chokes if you want some other choke options. Improved cylinder choke is a happy medium for grouse, but pattern the gun first. Regarding Tru-glo sights, I am in favour of these for ducks and pass shooting but grouse hunting is reactive and shots are usually so fast you won't even notice your front bead and if you are, you're likely to shoot behind the bird. Also, given the thick cover, a large Tru-Glo sight is an easy thing to knock off the gun.

Patrick
 
First of all congrats on finding a barrel to even cut. Not an easy task as you now know.
For me my 23" with probally a IC tube is what I use most in 20ga.
I also suggest you show the barrel to the guy that is going to eventually fit the tubes before you cut it. Many of those remington old barrels were not circular and varied in thickess over the length so there may be a better spot to cut it short to fit the tubes vs you hacking it off.
Take care
 
First of all congrats on finding a barrel to even cut. Not an easy task as you now know.
For me my 23" with probally a IC tube is what I use most in 20ga.
I also suggest you show the barrel to the guy that is going to eventually fit the tubes before you cut it. Many of those remington old barrels were not circular and varied in thickess over the length so there may be a better spot to cut it short to fit the tubes vs you hacking it off.
Take care

Thanks! As you know, it has less to do with luck...and more to do with a willingness to lay out some cash. :) Anyhow, thanks for the tips 3macs1. As stated in the thread starter, I wouldn't be cutting at all if it wasn't the identical barrel...so this is a great candidate for experimentation. Actually, if I were to guess, I'd say the barrel hasn't even been shot...but maybe stored improperly. Inside looks flawless, exterior some subtle imperfections.

Anyhow, I'm planning on visiting a gunsmith later today and I'll ask him the question about adding tubes at a later date, whether or not (once he's cut it) he thinks it's possible, etc. The barrel wall looks pretty thin at the muzzle end now, I'm curious to see how it'll look once it's lost 5"-6".

So....23" eh? Interesting. If cylinder is where I'll be starting, I doubt an inch would make a difference. And yes, I'll have the other 28" modified with me on my first hunts...in case this plan doesn't pan-out :)
 
Thanks! As you know, it has less to do with luck...and more to do with a willingness to lay out some cash. :) Anyhow, thanks for the tips 3macs1. As stated in the thread starter, I wouldn't be cutting at all if it wasn't the identical barrel...so this is a great candidate for experimentation. Actually, if I were to guess, I'd say the barrel hasn't even been shot...but maybe stored improperly. Inside looks flawless, exterior some subtle imperfections.

Anyhow, I'm planning on visiting a gunsmith later today and I'll ask him the question about adding tubes at a later date, whether or not (once he's cut it) he thinks it's possible, etc. The barrel wall looks pretty thin at the muzzle end now, I'm curious to see how it'll look once it's lost 5"-6".

So....23" eh? Interesting. If cylinder is where I'll be starting, I doubt an inch would make a difference. And yes, I'll have the other 28" modified with me on my first hunts...in case this plan doesn't pan-out :)

I have one with a 26 and one with a 23 that was cut down and colonial thin wall choke tubes installed many years ago. I have a 18" in a 12ga but find that too short for hunting. Rem made some 23 factory which is why I went with that
Just about impossible to fit rem chokes in these old barrels. I don't know what they charge up your way but here 140-150 will get it cut, threaded and one thin wall tube. Good Luck
 
Well, I can update after I talk to him, but I think it was $65 to cut, re-bead the barrel. (today's order for him) I think it was +$125 to cut/thread, no tubes included. I'll start with the cut-only I think, pattern the gun, try hunting with it...then decide. Obviously, choke tubes make the most sense, but I've been told (by someone who owned the identical set-up) that the 22" length worked exceptionally well for him.
 
On a pump gun, a bbl length of 22in will be fine for Grouse hunting....I have a 20ga BPS Upland Spl that measures the same OAL as a 26in bbl SxS.

What may be more beneficial in the long run would be to thread/choke that bbl. CYL will work ok though out to 20-25 yards, however, given the smaller gauge, the spread would be a bit thin.

At one time, additionally, I used to carry a 12ga Baikal Coach gun with 20in CYL tubes and I've shot quite a few Grouse out to 25 yards. Bear in mind though that such short bbls (on a double gun) doesn't work well for wingshooting.
 
Thanks for the input Ahsan Ahmed, greatly appreciated. Of course, if this fall is anything like last...just finding birds will be a victory. Cutting one of the barrels to this length (sans choke) is a clear picture of just how close I'm planning on getting to birds...or HOPING to get to them I should say. I'm prepared to put more time in on the road, so hopefully it'll pay-off.

BTW, update. I did drop this barrel off this afternoon, and the gunsmith hadn't picked-up on the fact that it was a 20ga. barrel I was bringing by. As it turns-out, he doesn't have the necessary tooling to thread 20ga. barrels for tubes, only 12s. So, I'll have the shortened barrel back after the weekend. He did tell me it was $65 to cut & re-bead the barrel, threading a barrel for tubes (but not including any) is $115 if it's a 12ga.
 
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