Tikka T3 builds

beavis_m305

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Hey guys, just wondering if many of you have used a T3 as a base for a precision rifle. I've found they are the only company making a .260 for a price I'm willing to pay. I'm not looking for a competitive bench rest gun or anything like that, I want to be able to kill deer out to 600m and have a go at hitting steel targets as far as I can, for my entertainment. Say 900m for arguments sake.

Had this in mind:

T3 lite stainless .260
B&C Medalist
Canted rail
Barrel trimmed to 20" and threaded
Suppressor
Sightron SIII 3.5-10 (still tossing up scopes)

My ideas keep changing though. I would like an 18" tube, just to keep the weight down and the length when using the can, though I think this might castrate it's capability further out. Would be cool to hear of any experiences with this cal in shorter tubes (or any tube length). Would be nice to see some T3 set ups too.
 
The issue that Tikkas have is that there are so few undesirable features on them that users are hard pressed to justify pouring money into improvements. With the sporter stock now, an upgrade to a Manners or W3 is a marginal improvement.
 
I am a huge tikka fan, have 4, but would have to agree that it just isnt worth it - for what you want to do, for a few hun more, you could have a custom made (approx -6 mo to a year wait) or buy a good rifle already tweaked to do what you want... I splurged and got a Cooper 260, did no mods, and it is unreal for accuracy and the fit finish is eons ahead of the tikka. Does exactly as you want/list above. 1/2 moa guarantee and it is true.
When you start adding the cost of mods and such, and your time, it adds up - especially for Tikkas!!! I have modded 3 of mine, and with one it hasnt made a diff in the groups - the others it did -
Best thing you can do with a tikka is bed it with a SS recoil lug - that really shrunk my groups in 3 guns. Dont overtorque the trigger guard screws - damaging the trigger guard gets real expensive ($200, yes $200 for a plastic trigger guard)
 
So basically they are fine as they are, even with the tuppaware stock? I would like to be able to shoot off a bipod reliably. My Sako has a similar stock and the POI moves when shooting with a bipod. What I have envisioned is a factory rifle with some basic add on's to do what I want, I can't really be bothered with re barreling, squaring up the action etc to get a good shooter. Tikka's generally don't need any of that from what I have seen and read. My justification for re stocking is to shed a little weight and get it in a stable platform.
 
The B&C stock is a good upgrade - it takes care of the recoil lug issue, altho its prob a non-issue with a 260 - that should get you what you want, but realistically that gun/caliber is a 400yd hunter, and a mediocre 600-700yd at best paper/gong gun. I dont think one gun can be a light gun that is a precision gun. So go get another!
Regardless, great caliber and a good choice for a straight shooter!
 
Can a guy just buy a sporter stock? I have a Hunter Stainless that I was contemplating putting a stock on for shooting LR...

Is this doable? OOPS and it's in 30-06 if that makes a difference in a Tikka
 
The B&C stock is a good upgrade - it takes care of the recoil lug issue, altho its prob a non-issue with a 260 - that should get you what you want, but realistically that gun/caliber is a 400yd hunter, and a mediocre 600-700yd at best paper/gong gun. I dont think one gun can be a light gun that is a precision gun. So go get another!
Regardless, great caliber and a good choice for a straight shooter!

I'd contemplated a 7mm RM but I just don't think I would shoot the damn thing enough to justify it. Some of the local dudes are pushing 6.5x47, Swedes and the like around the 450-650m mark on animals, but that is really long for a non magnum, which is why I decided to make 600 my max, once I learn to shoot that far reliably.
 
Can a guy just buy a sporter stock? I have a Hunter Stainless that I was contemplating putting a stock on for shooting LR...

Is this doable? OOPS and it's in 30-06 if that makes a difference in a Tikka

IMHO the hunter wood stock is the best one tikka makes - you can properly bed it - and add a higher comb (aftermarket) if needed...
 
Here's mine with a T3 Manners stock. Also has CDI bottom metal.

D906662E.jpg
 
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