Black powder percussion for beginners..start to finish

icehunter121

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* please note that this thread will contain info for bp percussion rifles ONLY..modern inline and flintlock rifles are NOT covered here...but if some one wants to add info on them for a beginner shooter please feel free to.Please do not make this thread into a how to knap a flint or the best patch lube thread. This thread is intended for ppl who just got into bp shooting or want to, but have no idea what is involved with it or what they need.Lets keep it simple for beginners just as I was and still am but now have a little knowledge in it...Thank You...Ice..*

OK folks....I got into bp shooting just over a year ago. I was never around one but got started in it with a few good friends who had done it for years. So here are the basics to get up and shooting bp rifles..First off you need a rifle. Here is mine...its a tc hawken which I bought from a fellow member and its in .54 cal..

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Now you need your shooting supplies...they look like this..

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An now for a individual look at each one with a average price..First off is a possibles bag as they are called. I wanted a leather one but couldnt find it so had to settle for the camo one. They are used for carrying all your bp supplies while out in the field. Average price is $35-$40 for one..

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So forward we go..first off we need some powder and balls to shoot. Please check out recommended loads for your rifle and load weights ..and dont exceed them..

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An now we need some fire to get the fire going..caps....namely percussion caps. I have been using cci ones,never had a problem with them and by a 100 pack expect to pay $4-$6 for a tin full of 100..

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Patches,without them the ball will simply fall into the barrel. They lube the barrel as well as create a tight friction fit for the ball. One thing to note in my pic,the patches on the right hand side are prelubed and when fired CAN START A FIRE IN DRY GRASS...so be wary of that.The bottle beside it contains whats called moose milk. Its made up of a few different things which are covered in a different thread if you want to play with things. Patch material for the milk can come from different sources,but for a beginner lets keep it simple and use prelubed patchs of the proper thickness as prescribed in good loading data.

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So now we need to carry some powder...these are called flasks. I personally like the one on the left hand side as its a civil war era repro flask,right is a antique bone powder flask. Alternately if you cant find either you can still use a spoon to fill up your powder measure,its just a pain in the butt to do it that way.Cost are right around the $40 mark for either...but your mileage may vary..

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Powder measures...2 shown but both do the same thing.They are graduated from 10 - 120 grains each. You simply unscrew the locking collar,set for your charge weight,lock the collar back in and you are good to go. On the funnels you will notice a thing that slides back and forth. What this does is slides one way and stops,you fill the measure up with powder from your flask then you slide it the opposite way and you have a very simple funnel to pour the powder in your barrel. Just make sure to give it a few extra taps after pouring to make sure all the powder is out of it and you dont get a under or over charge upon firing your new bp rifle..Cost is about $15 bucks or so..

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Now the next thing is a short starter. What this does is allows you to start a slug with ease.I will post a couple of pics as to how its used.

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So lets assume you have powder in the barrel as mentioned above..now the first part of a short starter allows you to seat a ball with ease...notice that I have a patch on the barrel and a ball ready to be seated.* please note I am doing this in my house and am not loading up a live round*

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now the short starter being used..Note that the short starter has 4 tools to it,first it has a swivel stud for ease of carry in the field,its round on top so that using it really saves your hand from punishment while reloading,the longer part is to seat your ball/bullet down to where you can finally seat above said projectile with the long ramrod on your rifle...and finally a drilled out section that will fit over your ramrod and not wreck your hand. More pics..So here we go..

Powder in the barrel,patch on top,ball ready to go in and the shortest part of the short seater ready to start seating..

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Now the second part is to use the 6 inch part of the short seater and push the ball down further..

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The reason for it being round is that its easier on your hand when seating a ball or slug...now next step...remember from above the drilled out section of a short starter...here it is

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This will fit over the ramrod from your rifle and make ball/slug seating easier I prefer the old fashioned method just because...but women like doing it this way cause its easier on the hands for them. For some reason photo bucket is really screwing up right now...so gonna post the rest of this later..K photo bucket is back up and running and so am I. Here is the next pic for ya.So you started with the short starter,then the 6 inch end of the short starter and now the ramrod.It only takes 2 or 3 good pushes to seat the ball on top of the powder.The ram rod can either be done with your hand and no short starter as I prefer or it can be done like this.Place the drilled out cavity ( on the short starter) and use it to push the ball home. One thing to remember,when the ball seats you will know it.Dont try and keep hitting it down cause you arent sure and compress the powder charge down to tightly.Alternately you can *tamp* the ball down.This is done by either using the ram rod in your hand and tamping the ball in place,or using the short starter and placing it on top of the rod and using your open palm and hitting it and forcing the ball down on top of the powder charge.Either way works just fine..

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Alrighty so we have powder in the barrel,a ball seated and now for fire. Place a cap on the nipple and you are good to go.Push the cap down tightly,hammer is already cocked,watch your trigger closely cause you are ready to fire...

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This is the end result...dont expect a big bang,its more of a click,followed by a split second and a kerWHOMFP....lots of smoke,little recoil,lots of burnt gunpowder smell...and a grin from ear to ear

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there ya have it folks...bp shooting on a very simple scale...Oh by the way,if the wind is right,fully expect to go home reeking of burnt black powder..
 
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Having shot a front stuffer since I was a kid., and boy that's a long time. :redface: That is an job excellent Icehunter, thumbs up! Glad you mentioned marking the ramrod Pete, very important to always seat the ball or bullet firmly on the powder, It's not just helpful, it's dangerous "not to" and could actually blow your gun up. Trying to explain why is just confusing, so just one of the ten commandants! Just a couple little tips I could share. Because many beginning muzzle loader shooters desire to hunt with their guns. several pre measured powder containers are a real good idea. I use the plastic butler creek ones that hold a cap and can be used as a capper. They are as old as the hills and I am sure there is something new out there. The other thing I made is a small hard wood block with four holes drilled in it that hold pre lubed patch and ball, you set it on the barrel and use your starter as Ice showed you to start the ball. I had to make my own starter as you may need a longer short starter. I only mention these things as hunting can require fast reloads and while everything Ice said and his powder measures shown are absolutely correct at the range, hunting is a whole different ball game, or am I the only one that ever gets excited hunting. ;) Anyways great thread. Cheers
 
That, and what to do if a ball is stuck in the barrel. :redface:

Ask and ye shall receive...K folks,sometimes not paying attention comes up and bites ya in the butt.Ya put the ball in b4 the powder and now you have a stuck ball and no way to get it out. My buddy did that way b4 I got into black powder and brought his rifle over to me for help. Or after cleaning you forgot that some moisture from the oil has killed off part of the powder and the cap wont ignite it. So lets start with scenario #1...wet powder..that wont ignite after a few caps.

( THIS IS MY DISCLAIMER..HOW YOU WANT TO HANDLE THIS SITUATION IS TOTALLY UP TO YOU...I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY>FOR THE WAY YOU MIGHT READ OR USE THIS INFO. THIS IS MEANT AS MERELY A STARTING POINT FOR NEW SHOOTERS AND MY PERSONAL OPINION AS TO HOW TO DO THINGS SAFELY. IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF ANYTHING PLEASE CONSULT A LICENSED GUNSMITH AND TREAT THIS FIREARM AS BEING LOADED AND LIVE>)....so lets continue on..

When you are out buying the gadgets for bp shooting make sure to buy one of these...its a nipple wrench and only costs $6 for a cheap one up to around $15 for a fancier one..

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So you use the nipple wrench to unscrew the nipple out of the breach..remember lefty loosey, righty tighty..

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So now you have a breach with no nipple in it...now the worst part is remembering all this cause you were dumbfounded cause it didnt go kerwompff...the hole in the breach can take a really good shot of wd40 right about now and be left for 10 minutes or so.Spray it right in there..Make sure that lots of liquid runs in so that no burning flakes of powder are surviving..

So its been 10 minutes and nothing happened...lets pull the ball now.

Here is a bought ball puller..to me its a piece of crap and $6 bucks wasted.Its the one on the left side of the pic.

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The problem with it is that its not sharp enough to dig into a ball,it screws into your ramrod but you still can"t thread it into a ball cause you dont have enuff power in your hands...so lets build one that actually works and only costs $2.00 to do...an here it is..

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Buy a piece of ready rod,1/4 diameter is what I used.Thread on a 1/4 nut on the business end. Then mig weld a #6x 5/8 metal screw to the end of it.No welder...no problem,just check out your local auto body shop and have them do it for you.A 1/4 ready rod is more then strong enuff for this.So next thing is we want the home made puller to be centered in the barrel and on the ball so to speak. I used 2 30-06 casings and drilled out the primer pockets to .250 inches.The bottom case rests against the lower nut,a little black tape on the rod makes the case mouths meet equally,some more tape on the outside of the 30-06 cases for a tight fit in the bore.

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There ya have it...a homemade puller that you will never break..oh wait the handle end comes up...Make your home made puller about 6 inches longer then the barrel. Thread a nut on it then grab a wooden dowel about 6 inches long.Drill a hole in the center,slightly larger then the rod diameter which is .250. Triple nut the top and you are good to go.Now to use..

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Drop it down the barrel till it hits the ball/slug...give it a slight tap downward,use a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 7/16 inch socket to turn the screw into above said slug or ball.You will know when it gets seated...nice little shot of wd 40 or oil even,one good pull and you are back in business and ready to shoot again..
 
Having shot a front stuffer since I was a kid., and boy that's a long time. :redface: That is an job excellent Icehunter, thumbs up! Glad you mentioned marking the ramrod Pete, very important to always seat the ball or bullet firmly on the powder, It's not just helpful, it's dangerous "not to" and could actually blow your gun up. Trying to explain why is just confusing, so just one of the ten commandants! Just a couple little tips I could share. Because many beginning muzzle loader shooters desire to hunt with their guns. several pre measured powder containers are a real good idea. I use the plastic butler creek ones that hold a cap and can be used as a capper. They are as old as the hills and I am sure there is something new out there. The other thing I made is a small hard wood block with four holes drilled in it that hold pre lubed patch and ball, you set it on the barrel and use your starter as Ice showed you to start the ball. I had to make my own starter as you may need a longer short starter. I only mention these things as hunting can require fast reloads and while everything Ice said and his powder measures shown are absolutely correct at the range, hunting is a whole different ball game, or am I the only one that ever gets excited hunting. ;) Anyways great thread. Cheers

What you are talking about with the ball or slug no being fully seated is called a spontaneos pressure excursion...basically a bomb.Pressure has to go someplace..
 
Nice primer for beginners. I would add a spare nipple(s), nipple wrench and a nipple pick to your possibles bag.

I agree....those are good to have in your possibles bag..but if you dont have a good gunshop nearby,a simple needle will suffice for cleaning out a fouled nipple...ok that just doesnt sound quite right..
 
What you are talking about with the ball or slug no being fully seated is called a spontaneos pressure excursion...basically a bomb.Pressure has to go someplace..
There is lots of theory on what does and does not happen, It could blow your gun up. We are dealing with beginners here-- right-- so didn't want to scare them too bad. It IS a ten commandant as I said. Nice job on your stuck ball remover there Ice. As we are talking to beginners just a couple more little tips: Another reason for marking your ramrod is to know whether you did put in a powder charge and it will happen that you didn't and probably in a hunting situation. How would I know :confused: :) . I have two marks on mine, one with no powder and one with full charge. Anyways if you have ramrod marked and realize that you don't have powder--- stop--- don't beat it down to the bottom as there is a good chance if it has been shot, there will be lots of fouling there and really stick the ball. Now before you panic and start spraying oil into things and looking for a ball remover. Take out the nipple, put barrel down (PUT out your cigarette, you lit because you were so nervous.) :eek: remember no sparks and don't smoke around black powder. Now take your measured FFFg, you should ALWAYS have some with you no matter what substitute you use. dribble as much as you can in the nipple hole , try for half a charge but a quarter charge and less will shoot the ball out. When you get in as much as you can and feel it is enough, put nipple in, ALWAYS push the ball down on the charge at this and every time, now cap it and shoot it out. Just one other thing, the best way to not get your balls stuck half way down ;) is to simply clean your gun. Even when I am hunting and have only fired a shot or two and reloaded, I fire that off at end of day, and clean it and reload the next time out. If shooting at the range you can tell when they are starting to go down hard, could be only five or six shots, don't push your luck clean it. Cheers
PS> Actually just a few grains will move the ball enough to repeat the above operation. But each time you must make sure no sparks are there, move slow-- think fast.
 
I clean and preserve my BP and corrosive ammo guns with WD40. As a result with my BP rifles there is ALWAYS oil present in the chamber/fire hole. To dry this area before firing a shot I do the following, snap off 2-4 caps on an empty barrel (drys/burns off oil), then to ensure it's ready to fire I put a quarter powder charge in the barrel with damp wadding on top and fire. Then and only then am I ensured that it will fire a loaded round.

Having said that, I have had a failure to fire WITH a full charge and patched RB seated on top (oil or fouling at the fire hole). Instead of pulling the ball (which is a pain in the a$$ IMHO), I pull the nipple. I can fit about 2-3 grains of powder in front of the fire hole and still seat the nipple all the way (dry powder is now under the nipple and nipple installed), put a new cap on and PHTOOMMMM. :D I haven't used my ball puller in a while now. ;)
 
I clean and preserve my BP and corrosive ammo guns with WD40. As a result with my BP rifles there is ALWAYS oil present in the chamber/fire hole. To dry this area before firing a shot I do the following, snap off 2-4 caps on an empty barrel (drys/burns off oil), then to ensure it's ready to fire I put a quarter powder charge in the barrel with damp wadding on top and fire. Then and only then am I ensured that it will fire a loaded round.

Having said that, I have had a failure to fire WITH a full charge and patched RB seated on top (oil or fouling at the fire hole). Instead of pulling the ball (which is a pain in the a$$ IMHO), I pull the nipple. I can fit about 2-3 grains of powder in front of the fire hole and still seat the nipple all the way (dry powder is now under the nipple and nipple installed), put a new cap on and PHTOOMMMM. :D I haven't used my ball puller in a while now. ;)


Excelent alternative. I have used this way a few times on PC's and Flinters.

This whole thread is a great one. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Pete
 
Nice job Icehunter indeed!
On a more sober note, if the Nova Scotia Association of Anglers and Hunters had thier way, firearms such as this would become mere scrap because of thier ongoing public campaign to ban lead shot for all hunting in NS! Yes, they could be used on a range only.............just like handguns huh?? Effectively a recalssification to restricted status. wow

Sorry for the OT stray, food for some thought.
 
So does any mod want to sticky this thread? We all know that 2 months down the road its gonna come up again with a new shooter.Then it will be the same questions,answers and such. This would just save so much typing for all involved...Just a thought...Ice...
 
I second that sticky motion! Ice, your timing is impeccable. I am in the learning stages and soaking up as much info as I can before I come up with the cash to enter the muzzleloading world. keep the info and excellent pictures coming!
 
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