well for a while I was planning on buying a newer model marlin 1994 in 44mag but due to some unexpected cuts in the rifle budget that is no longer an option,so I started thinking more along the lines a of a nice swedish mauser sporter from tradex,mostly because I like the sounds of a nice little easy to shoot and inexpensive rifle in a very interesting cartridge.So my question is....would MOA be the norm for one of these rifles with a "very good bore"?I don't reload yet although my next purchase once the season is over will be a press and full reloading setup,so factory ammo will have to do for this season.so what do you think? are these rifles usually able to punch a decent group? and if so what should I be looking for,other than a good bore when picking one out?
thinking about my first 6.5x55!
- Thread starter thehunterman
- Start date
Trust me buy the guns from Tradex. Factory ammo or by a more expensive Husqvarna that has a more modern action. Picked one with a very good bore and nice wood and weaver bases on it. If you buy a 96 you will not be able to load max loads with it. If you buy a Husqvarna which is a more modern action you will be able or should be able to max load it.
I'm going out on a limb here but I would be willing to bet that once you get your hands on a 6.5 Swedish rifle you will be going back for more.Check out the Tradex website for an almost overwhelming selection of rifles in this caliber.I absolutely love this round.
Sorry for the slight hijack but particular Husky models in this calibre or 30-06 that you wound consider better than others?
- Location
- Invermere, BC
Kamlooky has one up for sale in the EE
Branwilder
Regular
- Location
- Durham Region, Ontario
I am considering the same thing right now... I also don't reload yet. So does anyone know of a good spot to purchase 6.5x55 factory ammo?
- Location
- Invermere, BC
CanAm, SFRC and Tradex all carry 6.5x55 ammo. There may be other site sponsors that carry it as well, I just did a quick check on those three.
blasted_saber
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- A blue part of Ontario
Gagnons in Oshawa and Williams in Port Perry carry it as well as those listed above.
The 6.5 is a great cartridge, but hot is not the thing for the mausers, may I suggest a tikka or for more common in newer firearms a 260 rem or one chambered in a hotter 6.5 chambering? That way you would be running in the comfort zone for the stoughter cartridge, therefore giving longer brass and rifle life!
The M94 based Swedish Mausers are not considered to be as safe, or quite as strong, as rifles built on the M98 Mauser action. 94's do not have a third "safety" lug on the bolt, nor do they handle escaping gas as well as a M98 does.
The strength difference is not that huge, most properly handloaded Swede '94's, with a 22"+ barrel, will safely drive 140 grainers to 2600fps., some slightly higher.
The M98's?, they are quite commonly pushed to 2800fps.
My personal best '94 Swede max's out at 2675fps from a 22.5" barrel. This with 140gr Amax and R22. Thousands of rounds fired at that speed, with 1/2 MOA typical groups. That particular 1913 made action is on it's third barrel, with no issues. I consider these speeds at the limit of prudence in M94 actions. .... YMMV.
Personally?, dont care so much what action, as long as it's chambered in 6.5 Swede ..... my lifelong favorite.
But a 98 action IS at the top of the heap: if....
You can find one.
You can afford the one you eventually find.
Trade ex is your friend.
The strength difference is not that huge, most properly handloaded Swede '94's, with a 22"+ barrel, will safely drive 140 grainers to 2600fps., some slightly higher.
The M98's?, they are quite commonly pushed to 2800fps.
My personal best '94 Swede max's out at 2675fps from a 22.5" barrel. This with 140gr Amax and R22. Thousands of rounds fired at that speed, with 1/2 MOA typical groups. That particular 1913 made action is on it's third barrel, with no issues. I consider these speeds at the limit of prudence in M94 actions. .... YMMV.
Personally?, dont care so much what action, as long as it's chambered in 6.5 Swede ..... my lifelong favorite.
But a 98 action IS at the top of the heap: if....
You can find one.
You can afford the one you eventually find.
Trade ex is your friend.
Well - I own several 6.5X55's including converted Mauser 96's, and some of the Tradex variants. I like them alot, but you have to recognize their limitations:
1) They're approaching 100 years old, and were used as working guns.
2) They've been sported with varying degrees of success.
3) They generally have a fixed floor plate, which may not suit your style of hunting.
As far as the Tradex Mauser based sporters are concerned, I've had mixed luck with them. If you want a scoped one, there is a good chance that the D+T was done post factory re-fit, and may not be done to a high standard. Also, many dont have a recontoured bolt which will force you into very high rings (ie see through).
Finally, the bedding usually required some tweaking - the beech they used seems to be quite soft.
I dont mind fiddling with guns of this type, but some may not have the patience or skills...
1) They're approaching 100 years old, and were used as working guns.
2) They've been sported with varying degrees of success.
3) They generally have a fixed floor plate, which may not suit your style of hunting.
As far as the Tradex Mauser based sporters are concerned, I've had mixed luck with them. If you want a scoped one, there is a good chance that the D+T was done post factory re-fit, and may not be done to a high standard. Also, many dont have a recontoured bolt which will force you into very high rings (ie see through).
Finally, the bedding usually required some tweaking - the beech they used seems to be quite soft.
I dont mind fiddling with guns of this type, but some may not have the patience or skills...
For the money, starting with a tradex mauser is a good choice. I have just picked up my third 6.5x55. The first one from tradex. For between 200-350 you are getting a gun that has little recoil, yet shoots the same 140 gr bullet as a 270. Just faster and flatter trajectory. Sight it in at 200 and anything from 0 - 350 is within your range.
I agree with cosmic that you should be a little careful. Use commercial north american loads and you will not be over powering the gun as these are weak by comparison to what you can do with the load.
If you reload, do it carefully and watch your brass for signs of overpressure.
I look forward to hunting my 6.5 this year. Don't ask which one as I haven't decided yet.
I agree with cosmic that you should be a little careful. Use commercial north american loads and you will not be over powering the gun as these are weak by comparison to what you can do with the load.
If you reload, do it carefully and watch your brass for signs of overpressure.
I look forward to hunting my 6.5 this year. Don't ask which one as I haven't decided yet.
I bought one (96) years ago from them, "Excellent bore", scope mount, side safety, roll over cheak piece, 6.5x55.
To be honest I expected more as I paid on the upper end of what was on the site at the time, the best the rifle would do was about 3-4" groups.
Then I messed with it and started hand loading.
First, I recrowned the barrel - groups shrunk.
Next I bedded it into a synthetic stock - groups shrunk.
Then came a trigger - groups shrunk.
With standard pressure handloads I have a load that consistantly groups a 1/2" and under at 100 yards (5 round groups).
So with a bit of work and not much cash I came up with a really cool little, light tack driver.
To be honest I expected more as I paid on the upper end of what was on the site at the time, the best the rifle would do was about 3-4" groups.
Then I messed with it and started hand loading.
First, I recrowned the barrel - groups shrunk.
Next I bedded it into a synthetic stock - groups shrunk.
Then came a trigger - groups shrunk.
With standard pressure handloads I have a load that consistantly groups a 1/2" and under at 100 yards (5 round groups).
So with a bit of work and not much cash I came up with a really cool little, light tack driver.
The older actions are a little cheaper in the Swede but I would go with a 98. Don't worry about a "100 year old rifle", there are thousands of 98 mausers, 03 Springfields, 1917 and Pattern 14 rifles out there that are every bit as strong as new manufacture actions and are still giving excellent service with mild, factory and hot loads. It's not age or bad metallurgy or machining that limit the pre 98 mausers but design.
So are the Husqvarna 1600's made with a 98' mauser action,or are they simply based on a mauser action?
I'm also assuming that seeing as the 1600's where made from 1953 to 1967 (according to google) thay would be able to handle some SLIGHTlY hotter loads,though I don't want to load this thing way up you understand but just enough to drop Mr. blackie.
I'm also assuming that seeing as the 1600's where made from 1953 to 1967 (according to google) thay would be able to handle some SLIGHTlY hotter loads,though I don't want to load this thing way up you understand but just enough to drop Mr. blackie.
