OK to ask what my rifles might be worth here?

gcdavidson

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Hey guys, been out of the hobby since the early 90's. At the time, I collected a few LE and a couple swede 6.5mm's. Looking to part with them so that I re-focus on .22LR.

Would it be OK to post some pics of them here and maybe get some input from those more qualified than I as to $ value?

If so, is there specific areas I should include in the photos?

Thanks,
G
 
Hey guys, been out of the hobby since the early 90's. At the time, I collected a few LE and a couple swede 6.5mm's. Looking to part with them so that I re-focus on .22LR.

Would it be OK to post some pics of them here and maybe get some input from those more qualified than I as to $ value?

If so, is there specific areas I should include in the photos?

Thanks,
G

Yes. I'm sure thats fine. It happens quite often. Be sure to include pics of the whole rifle and all markings. Or you will for sure see one of these:

:needPics:
 
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Many people do legitimately ask values of firearms on these forums. We just get a bit tired of someone with 5 posts and 145 trader ratings asking them. You know these people are not really contributing to the knowledge of everyone, but rather using the forums as an advertisement to sell firearms for their own profit.

Be aware, however, that most people will give you a fairly good estimate of what something is worth, but there are always those who will tell you something is worth a lot more than it is. These people have no intention of buying the item, and if you offered the firearm to them for the price they quote, you would never hear from them again. They just do it because they think they are smart, and have no intention of putting one dollar into a firearm at the price they quote.

After a while, you will learn who the ones are that have a level head on their shoulders.

As mentioned, good pictures are essential if you want to get a good price for your rifles. No pictures or "e-mail me for pictures" gets you offers of about $100 less or no inquiries at all. A good honest description is a must because our recreational firearms community is a small one, and word gets around fast if someone trys to pull a fast one such as describing a rusted bore as "good" for example.

Welcome to the Forum.
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Thanks for the quick responses.

Though I am genuinely curious about the lineage of these rifles, but to be honest, my intent is to exchange them for $ or suitable .22 in trade.

I won't speak to condition such as poor//excellent, as I don't know enough about rating them. Hopefully the photos will help determine condition & value.

I'll take detailed pics over the coming days, but here's an overview:

Here's the 6.5mm, I've also got dies for reloading...should I include pics of those too?
8028156469_f8f7210089_z.jpg


And the .303's. All the bolt serial #'s match those on the weapons. Missing from the group photo is a 'sporterized' #3:
8028151928_0b75c5f317_z.jpg
 
Not that I can offer prices like triaq, smellie, buffdog or cantom (yes I am missing some of you but I settled for 4 , don't #### on me purple ;) ) , but I will agree : we don't seem to mind guys with old guns who want to know what they have. What drives us to infuriation is the gent who is three keystrokes from a overinflated price on the EE who doesn't care anything about the history
 
jfred, I'm going to try and recite the reason for that yellow tip. I bought that one off my history professor, Dr Ron Haycock, who knew a thing or two about weapons. I believe the ends were painted yellow as training aids for new soldiers; the RSO would be able to quickly determine if the weapon was pointed in an unsafe direction, or if it was canted or otherwise indicating a poor shooting position. Caveat - this was 20+ years ago, so I could be completely befarkled!
 
What's a medic doing with firearms:eek: Sell them to me quick befor the Geneva guys see them.
I can't answer to the 6.5s but all of the Enfields are worth at least $350.
Need a whole lot more data though. Are the rifles original condition or rebuilt? What are the bores like. A shiny bore with good rifleing will fetch much more than a sewer pipe. What years, marks, makers etc. What year is the P14 and is it mk1 or mk1*. Is it Remington, Eddystone or Winchester. Does it have the volley sights?
That's the type of data that is needed to determine real value.
I have seen decent #5s go for as little as $250 but usually $350 and more. Again, more data.
Nice collection. I'll give you $200 apiece:D
 
Depending on condition and how good the bores are you could expect 300-400 for the Mauser 96 and 450-500 for the ag42 but then again I'm not an expert that's just what my research has told. I'm don't know much about enfeilds but points seems to know what he's talking about maybe.
very nice guns but where are the bolts?
 
Hi!

I usually don't do valuations, being that I am more into the history, use, development and shooting of the critters. Values are so darned subjective, anyway.

The two 6.5s are Swedish and handle the 6.5x55 cartridge, which is one of the finest target cartridges ever designed. The bolt rifle is a Model of 1896; they were made, off and on, until about 1944, even though nearly all of them were made before the mid-1920s. They have a (well deserved) reputation for accuracy. Depending upon age, they were made by 3 factories: the original Mauser works in Germany, the Carl Gustav plant in Sweden and a few in the Husqvarna plant. Parts interchange between all 3 makes perfectly. I bought 2 of these when they came into the country, $65 each. I still have both and today they are selling for about 6 times that...... and that's for pretty ordinary rifles. For prime specimens, the price will go higher.

The Swedish semi-auto is an AG-42B. They just LOVE to destroy your brass, but there IS a way to make them behave. They are likely the single most accurate semi-auto battle rifle ever made. The 10-shot magazine, BTW, has to be pinned to 5; we live in a Free Country in which the police and the criminals are the only ones who can have a 10-round magazine on a semi-auto rifle. Considering its extreme accuracy, this is one of the most-underpriced rifles available. A few months ago you could barely give one away, but the prices have been going up (as they should have a long time ago) and in the past 3 months have passed out of the $300 range and are heading towards 500. They SHOULD be considerably higher: there were only 30,000 made as opposed to 6 million Garands, which seem to be $1200 rifles if you can find one for sale. I own both and I would say that, for a practical battle rifle, the one is as good as the other.

The .303s are just about a complete collection of basic infantry rifles of the British Empire in the 20th Century. I won't write of values for these because I am terribly biased and I know it: if I'm buying, they are worth $10 (although I have been known to go a LOT higher!), if I'm selling, there isn't enough money available...... which is why I have never sold one.

But that's about what you might expect from someone who goes on a gun forum and calls himself "Smellie": SMLE!

NICE collection.

Too bad you are getting rid of them....... but likely a chunk of GOOD luck for a few people here!

Have fun.

It's what it's all about.

And welcome to the club!
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For the British rifles, you ought to post good, clear photos of both LEFT an RIGHT sides of the rifles. The Brits built them with parts and controls all over the place, but it made sense.

As far as price is concerned, I'll give you 10 bucks piece for them, but I'm pretty sure that Jungle carbines in nice original shape have long passed the $450 mark. There were NOT many made, and a lot of them got beat to death in Malaya and India and Burma and Viet-Nam and Indonesia and other hot, wet places. The poor things are, after all, only made of STEEL!

A good, original P-14 with the original volley sights was one of the finest rifles ever made. MANY have been converted to sporters and Magnums and originals are scarce these days. A GOOD one is a $500 toy these days. Winchesters bring a premium over Eddystones and Remingtons are scarce. Serial number prefix tells you: W, R or E.

Just about ANY SMLE these days will bring 350 or up. There were 6 factories for these rifles (Enfield, BSA, London Small Arms, Standard SA, National, Lithgow and Ishapore). Yeah, I know, that's 7. National and Standard were the same factory, after and before nationalisation in early 1918. Of English production, Enfield and BSA made 90%. Expect a premium on LSA, SSA and NRF rifles. Nothing wrong with an Ishapore but they don't seem to bring the dollars. Lithgow are popular because they were released last and have built a following of people who like Aussie toys; likely they all drink Foster's anyway!

Number 4s are the final version of the Lee rifle adopted for British Service. Factories are Shirley and Fazakerly and Maltby in the UK, Savage in the USA and Long Branch in Canada. By and large, Long Branch are excellent rifles (they all are, actually, but LB is nicer), even nicer-made than Savage. Check the Equipment Exchange for this week's prices but don't let anything go for under 350.

GAWD, there are some people GONNA hate me for this one!
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The yellow dipped SMLE is probably a Lithgow from Australia. If they had a dark bore or similar they dipped it in yellow paint meaning for cadet use. :(

Had one just like it. It was a ##### getting that yellow paint off and the bore sucked...wished I'd never bought it.

You need more details and pics of each gun showing markings etc to get close to an idea of value.
 
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It really is not necessary to include pictures of reloading dies, but you should give the name of the maker,,for example "RCBS dies." Any parts or accessories should be noted, such as the small tin of extractors, firing pins and springs that originally came with most of the AG-42B rifles.

The date on the m/96 Swedish Mauser should be given. Any of the Carl Gustafs and Mauser made rifles have matching numbers in 13 places, with the last three digits of the receiver serial number on bolt, cocking piece, floor plate, barrel bands, and sight. Cleaning rod does not really matter, but it is nice if it matches too. Also, a picture of any markings on the bottom of the wrist of the rifle, which tells of Arsenal or Repair station visits. Anywhere from $225 to $450 depending upon condition and date. Ag 42B rifles sell for $350 upwards.

The Lee Enfields and SMLE MUST be identified. As mentioned, there were a lot of different makers, and dates are as important as makers. Again, bolts and receivers are numbered in the Number 4 rifles, and sometimes magazines have matching numbers on them too, but this is not as important as the bolt and receiver number matching. Average prices seem to run $350 to $500 but can be more for really good one.

A good Number 5 rifle, (Jungle Carbine,) will be from $350 upwards, again depending upon condition and date. This one is an earlier model.

The SMLE with the yellow paint has at least been to Australia. It could be a Lithgow make of various dates and / or upgrades or it could be of British make. Dates here along with original wood are very important, and can add $500 or more to the basic price of the rifle, depending upon scarcity if Lithgow made. Hard to price this one without more information, and better pictures and depending upon condition, maker and date, etc., could start at $250 and work upwards. A scarce dated original Lithgow was recently bought for $1200, and that was a very good price for that particular rifle.

The Pattern 14 rifle will depend upon Maker and other markings. There seems to be a plate attached near the stock disk, and good pictures of this should be taken. Also and markings on the stock disk, barrel and such should be taken. In good shape, $400 and up.

Markings or stamps on rifle are very important, and can add hundreds of dollars to the value of rifles. Sometimes these markings are overlooked or discounted by people selling rifles, but more advanced collectors almost instantly recognize an "odd" rifle or things like unit stampings, etc.

When you do get ready to sell them, do not lump them all together. It is much better to split them up into groups, say the SMLE and the P-14, the two Swedes, and the Number 4 and 5 rifles. That way, you can include more detailed pictures of each rifle in the group, and potential buyers do not have to go through an endless list of pictures and possibly miss an important detail that would cinch the sale for you.
 
- Yellow paint on the SMLE means that it was it was issued to Aussie Cadet Corps, rifle is worn and has issues (rusted bore, etc...) and is no longer fit for regular army duty.

- Brass plaque on the Pat14, probably means it was used in Indonesia.
 
Folks, I've overwhelmed by the resposnes - many thanks for taking the time to provide such detailed replies!

I think I'm well set up now with enough info to take pics that will help suss out the history and value of these.

It is with some mixed feelings that I am parting with them. They're kind of the last thing I still own before I started working, got married, had kids....they represented a time in my life that has long passed and there a quasi-emotional / nostalgic attachment to them. Hopefully they will all eventually go to shooters who will enjoy them as much as I did back in the 80's & 90's.

PS - points - not a medic, I'm a healthcare administrator, by way of the artillery and before that, infantry. I think this will be my last cap badge before I retire!
 
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