10/22 stovepipe question

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kevin13

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Everytime I get a stove pipe and rack it out it triggers a double feed I'm just curious about the proper way of clearing a stovepipe so I can get back to shooting quickly thanks guys
 
Drop the mag, then clear it?

Or live with dropping a round on the ground.

One way or the other, you gotta re-KAWK the hammer, so...

Try different ammo, clean out the mung, use oil, maybe a new extractor.... in other words, prevention...

Cheers
Trev
 
Last edited:
Clearing a stovepipe;

- grip the operating tab and rack the action back. Hold.

- tip the 10/22 to the right and shake it. Rotate it left wards, scan the chamber as clear, and release the op tab. Should load.

- guddago
 
dealwithit said:
I drop about 3-4 unfired rounds every big clip in my nomad, I can't wait to get my new extractor
Click to expand...

I was having the same problem with the promag AA92 mag for the marauder when using in it my archangel 556, I think the problem is the mag, not your extractor, I have zero issues with my bc mags and my ruger 10 round mag, and I use a stock extractor in my 10/22
 
B_902 said:
I was having the same problem with the promag AA92 mag for the marauder when using in it my archangel 556, I think the problem is the mag, not your extractor, I have zero issues with my bc mags and my ruger 10 round mag, and I use a stock extractor in my 10/22
Click to expand...

i have 2 black dog mags and 2 promag mags. all 4 do pretty much the same thing. i did install my new exact edge vq extractor and no change..... i realize some guns are just lemons but i figure ruger would have abit better QC that this... seems to be a common issue actually. every single casing coming out of the gun ejects in a different direction?
 
I'm no 10/22 guy...

Any jams/issues I have in any of my semi's, I pull the mag out before touching the bolt. If the bolt comes ahead enough to start striping a round from the magazine during the issue, and I pull it back again, it will try to strip another. One in the dirt for sure, and sometimes two.
 
Theres a few simple things you can do to eliminate stovepipes. Trust me, my 10/22 cycles subsonics. The biggest thing is bolt velocity. Hicap mags often rub the bottom of the bolt, slowing it down. The heavy spring pressure makes stripping a round alot harder, slowing it down. First, insert an unloaded mag and cycle the bolt slowly. Feel for resistance as the bolt passes over the feed lips. If you feel resistance then you will have to file the feed lips down until the bolt travels over them without touching. This will help alot. For the spring pressure, load the mags to full capacity and let them sit like that for a couple days. It sets the spring a little. A new extractor will grip shells better and a heavier extractor spring will help the extractor keep its grip on the casing and fling it out harder. It will help. Lastly if you want to make your 10/22 slick as s**t in a frying pan then chamfer the bolt where it contacts the hammer. Add a nice easy radius and polish it. Next, take your hammer spring strut out and polish it. Burrs will create incredible resistance, polishing makes a big difference. Lastly you can cut 1 or 2 coils off your hammer spring. I keep beating the damn hoppes T3 drum but it is by far the best oil Ive used. It makes a noticeable difference in every gun Ive used it in. Do all these mods and your 10/22 will be easier to cycle with the hammer down(fired) than with the hammer cocked. Throw in a nice polished guide rod to replace what looks like a cast iron factory piece too.
 
supernova said:
Theres a few simple things you can do to eliminate stovepipes. Trust me, my 10/22 cycles subsonics. The biggest thing is bolt velocity. Hicap mags often rub the bottom of the bolt, slowing it down. The heavy spring pressure makes stripping a round alot harder, slowing it down. First, insert an unloaded mag and cycle the bolt slowly. Feel for resistance as the bolt passes over the feed lips. If you feel resistance then you will have to file the feed lips down until the bolt travels over them without touching. This will help alot. For the spring pressure, load the mags to full capacity and let them sit like that for a couple days. It sets the spring a little. A new extractor will grip shells better and a heavier extractor spring will help the extractor keep its grip on the casing and fling it out harder. It will help. Lastly if you want to make your 10/22 slick as s**t in a frying pan then chamfer the bolt where it contacts the hammer. Add a nice easy radius and polish it. Next, take your hammer spring strut out and polish it. Burrs will create incredible resistance, polishing makes a big difference. Lastly you can cut 1 or 2 coils off your hammer spring. I keep beating the damn hoppes T3 drum but it is by far the best oil Ive used. It makes a noticeable difference in every gun Ive used it in. Do all these mods and your 10/22 will be easier to cycle with the hammer down(fired) than with the hammer cocked. Throw in a nice polished guide rod to replace what looks like a cast iron factory piece too.
Click to expand...

great post thank you, i needed a project for the weekend.
 
You also may want to try a different brand of ammo. My 10/22 is an little picky. It doesn't like winchester 555. They are hollow points. It feeds the blazer round nose allot better
 
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