When crimping..

WhelanLad

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how is the correct way to set it up an how much force is needed?
im not getting a 100% solid crimp on my 375win lfcd an have tried many differrnt heights an force etc, i ended up puttin the shell in from the top an jus pressing the lever down to perform the crimp at the right spot..

case length a huge factor?
seems the case is filling the die an pressing too early. thus on the projectile an not the case/cannelure line?
read a bit but bit unsure.

cheers
WL
 
cases are under max...
maybe the cannelure is deeper on some pills than others also??
it does majority of cases fine , just the odd obe can be spun, an while i move the die more n more to try get it to crimp, it doesnt achieve this???

puttin the case in upside down i achieved a BIG crimp a few mm's down the case LOL... it shot fine an ironed out no worries
 
I recently had the same problem with a 45-70 seating die when I moved from a rotary press to a Dillon. When I set a die to crimp, I insert a re=sized empty case in to the shell holder and move it to the up position in the press, then I screw the die down untill it contacts the case mouth. When it contacts the case, I remove the case and give the die another 1/4 turn. This is my starting point and I fine tune when seating the first one or two bullets. When I seat the first bullet I turn the seating plug a long ways into the die so it seats the bullet before crimping. After gradualy seating the bullet to the scrimp groove, I back the seating plug out past where it should be to seat the bullets properly. Now I fine tune the crimp on that shell. When the crimp is where I want it I leave the shell in the die and screw the bullet seating plug down onto the finised shell an lock it.

When I tried to do that on the Dillon, the die body contacted the shell plate before it started the crimp.
There are 3 remedies that I can see, buy a die that is "company specific " to your press, thin the shell holder ( not easy to do) or as I did, trim about 1/8" off the mouth of your die.
 
I recently had the same problem with a 45-70 seating die when I moved from a rotary press to a Dillon. When I set a die to crimp, I insert a re=sized empty case in to the shell holder and move it to the up position in the press, then I screw the die down untill it contacts the case mouth. When it contacts the case, I remove the case and give the die another 1/4 turn. This is my starting point and I fine tune when seating the first one or two bullets. When I seat the first bullet I turn the seating plug a long ways into the die so it seats the bullet before crimping. After gradualy seating the bullet to the scrimp groove, I back the seating plug out past where it should be to seat the bullets properly. Now I fine tune the crimp on that shell. When the crimp is where I want it I leave the shell in the die and screw the bullet seating plug down onto the finised shell an lock it.

When I tried to do that on the Dillon, the die body contacted the shell plate before it started the crimp.
There are 3 remedies that I can see, buy a die that is "company specific " to your press, thin the shell holder ( not easy to do) or as I did, trim about 1/8" off the mouth of your die.

Hmmmm, I see what your saying, I've felt some click" when the crimp was spot on, but now cant seem to find a "right spot" an its lacking the crimp in some cases..

I am although happy enough to keep fiddling an aslong as the projectile cant be forced back into the case (by me pushing the nose into the bench) then it will be safe to use in my 94!
 
Your last post would indicate that the cases are not all the same length, as the crimp length between case holder and die shouldn't change unles you change it.

To achieve uniform crimps two thing must remain constant...the length of the brass and the distance between the shell holder at the top of it's travel in the press, and the crimp stage in the die.

Don't short -change yourself by saying you don't need a crimp. A crimp is essential to some powders in the larger straight-walled cases for uniform ignition & pressure. You are already taking the time and spending the money to get uniform results from your ammo, you need to take the last step to help it do that for you.
There is enough knowledge on this board to fix your problem . It may take a day or two of messaging but if you have the time lets do it.

First of all, if you have a set of calipers, find the shortest case and the longest case you have (after being re-sized & expanded with no flare at case mouth) and let us know what they measure.
Next, remove the bullet seating plug from the seating die. If you have ever loaded cast bullets in the die, clean all bullet lube from inside body. Now insert shortest case in shell holder and move to top of stroke. Now, with finger tip pressure ,screw die into press untill a strong resistance is felt or the die base contacts the shell holder. If no resistance is felt untill contact at the base, remove short case and do the same thing with the longest case. Let me know if you come up against resistance or it bottoms out on the case holder.
 
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