my new ross rifle any info and tips welcome, sorry about bad cell phone pictures

B

blista77

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
22   0   0
Location
NS
Hey guys i picked myself up a 303 m10 ross rifle a couple weeks back and i would like any info your can tell me about this rifle, i plan on shooting it next week hopefully, i would like to know if you guys can tell if the bolt is together right from the pictures, I know it the rifle is missing the back sight not sure whats thats called and i am pretty sure the barrel is cut but the rifle is really neat and i love how the bolt is on it, when locking the bolt should the locking lever be up or down or does it matter? it looks to be a pretty low serial number 100XX just wondering if there any problems with low serial or not, and what would the value of the rifle as its sets? i dont plan on selling her it just good to know. Hopefully i can start to learn about rifles myself so i dont have to start a tread every new gun i get :) and sorry about crappy cell phone pics i can get better pic tomorrow if needed.
Thanks for your time guys

37678857.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
87343356.jpg
[/URL]
63567383.jpg
[/URL]
67435075.jpg
[/URL]
77814686.jpg
[/URL]
 
blista77 said:
Hey guys i picked myself up a 303 m10 ross rifle a couple weeks back and i would like any info your can tell me about this rifle, i plan on shooting it next week hopefully, i would like to know if you guys can tell if the bolt is together right from the pictures, I know it the rifle is missing the back sight not sure whats thats called and i am pretty sure the barrel is cut but the rifle is really neat and i love how the bolt is on it, when locking the bolt should the locking lever be up or down or does it matter? it looks to be a pretty low serial number 100XX just wondering if there any problems with low serial or not, and what would the value of the rifle as its sets? i dont plan on selling her it just good to know. Hopefully i can start to learn about rifles myself so i dont have to start a tread every new gun i get :) and sorry about crappy cell phone pics i can get better pic tomorrow if needed.
Thanks for your time guys

37678857.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
87343356.jpg
[/URL]
63567383.jpg
[/URL]
67435075.jpg
[/URL]
77814686.jpg
[/URL]
Click to expand...
I have a Ross like this,your is missing the bridge with the rear sight. Sporterized ross sell for around $150-$200. Care must be taken with a M10 if you completely disassemble the bolt because can be reassembled the wrong way but your bolt seems pinned so cant be assembled wrong. Only heard grreat thigs about ross accuracy.
Joce
 
Curious about where you're seeing the serial number. Military Mk III Ross rifles have their serial number stamped into the right side of the buttstock using the structure

###
------ AA
19##

Where the number above the line, and the letters, along with the year of manufacture under the line constitute the full number. Ross Mk IIIB rifles, though, have the number stamped into the steel. What's the front sight look like?

The LC indicates the rifle chamber was reamed out to enlarge it.
 
You have a sported Mk. III service rifle. The rear sight, and its mounting bridge were removed, no doubt when the open sight was installed on the barrel.
 
Thanks guys, my last question is with the bolt locking lever(not sure what the actually name is) should it be fliped up or down? i no the bolt comes out if its in the middle
 
No one has mentioned it yet so maybe it's not that big a deal, but isn't there a part of the Ross rifle that if you reassemble it backwards it makes the rifle dangerous? I heard that from a Ross owner, but I don't remember all the details or the part but I think it has something to do with the bolt.
 
SoBored said:
No one has mentioned it yet so maybe it's not that big a deal, but isn't there a part of the Ross rifle that if you reassemble it backwards it makes the rifle dangerous? I heard that from a Ross owner, but I don't remember all the details or the part but I think it has something to do with the bolt.
Click to expand...

Read the "sticky" on Ross bolt disassembly of the 1910 / M-10 at the start of the Milsurps section. That is why it was put there to provide this information, and do away with some of the hearsay, rumors, fables, and suppositions.
.
 
@SoBored: You have it EXACTLY RIGHT, friend. YOU have to put it out of adjustment and, if you do, it WILL rip the side of your head off.

On the other hand, I have been shooting Ross Rifles for 50 years now and I am still in one piece.

A rifle with a special PIN through the Bolt Sleeve can NOT be assembled wrong. THIS rifle HAS the Pin.

I normally shoot a rifle WITHOUT the Pin, but I put it together RIGHT.

The Rifle can NOT get out of adjustment by itself. YOU have to PUT it out of adjustment.

This problem was blown out of proportion during and following the First World War and did a lot to damn eternally the reputation of the Ross, which was the most ACCURATE rifle in the world...... and PROVED it by setting records which STILL stand a century later.

The Ross in not the only rifle which you can MAKE dangerous; it was just the only one to be pulled out of a combat role in the middle of a war. A Moisin-Nagant, a Mannlicher 4-motion bolt rifle, a Lee-Enfield, certain Mausers and many others can be fired with parts missing and the results can be spectacular and disastrous. The famous G/K-43 German semi-auto rifle can even be fired with NO LOCKING MECHANISM WHATEVER. The difference is that the ROS was in the middle of a POLITICAL sh*t-storm and politicians, then as now, were vicious, brutal and totally unscrupulous.

The OP's fine new rifle lacks the rear Receiver Bridge with the attached fully-adjustable Ross Battle Aperture Sight (the best rear-sight of World War One and one which was fully adjustable for range and drift).... and the 4 tiny screws with which to attach it. NICE thing about getting a rifle in this condition: you know that it hasn't been SHOT in a long time. Likely the Bore will be just fine.

That heavyweight 30.5-inch barrel, combined with the fine Ross trigger and competition-grade ammunition, can turn in targets which will make the jaws drop on the guys with the shiny new scoped rifles.

A Very Nice Toy.
 
thanks for the info smellie, the barrel is in great shape and hopefully shoots as good as it looks haha now that i got a sport i need to find a full wood one :) my friend that sold me this one has one but he wont sell it cause it was his great grandfathers in the war, but actually my friend told me this was his secondary rifle in the war and he almost didn't want to sell it and i made a agreement if i ever want to sell the rifle it can only be sold back to him, i don't plan on selling it unless he decides he wants it back. hopefully she shoots good and how is the kick on these?
 
blista77 said:
thanks for the info smellie, the barrel is in great shape and hopefully shoots as good as it looks haha now that i got a sport i need to find a full wood one :) my friend that sold me this one has one but he wont sell it cause it was his great grandfathers in the war, but actually my friend told me this was his secondary rifle in the war and he almost didn't want to sell it and i made a agreement if i ever want to sell the rifle it can only be sold back to him, i don't plan on selling it unless he decides he wants it back. hopefully she shoots good and how is the kick on these?
Click to expand...

The rifle has British proof marks so there is no way it was brought back from WWI by a soldier. It either stayed in the UK post-WWI, or more likely, was shipped back in 1940 when the British were desperate for rifles, then sporterized post-WWII and sold back to Canada.

The first thing is give it a really thorough cleaning. I posted my ideas on that in another Ross thread recently. Unless you have an venetian blind-sized ultrasonic cleaner at your disposal, oven cleaner is the fastest and most thorough method of cleaning off the 60+ years of encrusted dirt off the metal parts. You'll be amazed how much better it will look. You can rub it over with some fine steel wool on the exposed surfaces as you do so. From the photos you have some surface rust on the bolt sleeve and barrel etc. Do not use an SOS pad or other coarse steel wool, use fine or extra fine.

You should be able to find the charger bridge and sight if you ask around and look through the parts boxes at gunshows. You might even find your friend or his relatives still have it sitting around somewhere in some drawer or box. Never hurts to ask. If you're lucky the screws will be there too!

Examples like this are a good way to get started on any particular make or model of rifle; you can mess around with them without fear of offending the milsurp gods; the damage is already done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom