Ruger 10/22: Noticed a few minor issues

rxanderq

rxanderq

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I took my Ruger 10/22 to the range yesterday for the first time and I noticed a few issues. I'm hoping CGN can suggest a few fixes

I am using a Bushnell 3-9 Scope, and shooting a targer 5-15m away.

  1. The shot lands on the target much lower than where I am aiming, about 5-10cm when the targer is about 10m away. Do I simply aim higher or are there adjustments I can make to my scope?
  2. The screws holding my scope to the mount keep coming loose after firing several rounds. Could I just secure it with some Loctite Blue? I am using Weaver branded scope mounts.
  3. I didnt keep count of my shots, as a result I dry-fired a few times. I understand dry firing is okay on a Ruger 10/22. However, I noticed after I dry fire, putting the safety back on is met with some resistance, unless I pull the bolt back again. Is this normal?
 
Although this is my first post, I would suggest you do some more searching and reading on how to zero in a scope. All of these questions would be easily answered if you did and search through here or through google.
 
First , have you zeroed your scope ? At 25 meters shoot . Find where bullet went . On your scope you should have two adjustment screws , one for up and down and the other for left and right . Adjust until you are in the bullseye .
Make sure you locktite the screws holding your rail to the gun . It will ALWAYS loosen up if you don't . I found that out after zeroing my scope three times before I realized what was causing it . Thought I had a crappy scope lol .
You can also look at utube for zeroing scopes if it helps .
Have fun.
 
This is normal, if you zero at 50m, then at 15m your gun should shoot low otherwise your scope is not good. If you zero at 100m, your 50m shot is 1"-2" higher, but at close range it land lower on the target.
 
Dagmaar said:
First , have you zeroed your scope ? At 25 meters shoot . Find where bullet went . On your scope you should have two adjustment screws , one for up and down and the other for left and right . Adjust until you are in the bullseye .
Make sure you locktite the screws holding your rail to the gun . It will ALWAYS loosen up if you don't . I found that out after zeroing my scope three times before I realized what was causing it . Thought I had a crappy scope lol .
You can also look at utube for zeroing scopes if it helps .
Have fun.
Click to expand...

No I haven't zeroed my scope. I was not aware of this because my the elevation and windage adjustment was hidden under caps.
I'll have to adjust it and apply some Loctite next time then.

ceriksson said:
Also.

DO NOT FORCE THE SAFETY AFTER DRY FIRING.

the safety will not be able to go on when the rifle is not cocked. You will break it if you try to force it
Click to expand...


I've never forced it, I always pulled the bolt when i noticed some resistance.

However, I just handled my rifle and noticed even when the safety is on, if the bolt is open it the trigger can still be pulled. Is this normal?
When the bolt is closed and the safety is on, the trigger can still be pulled back, just not all the way.
 
ceriksson said:
Also.

DO NOT FORCE THE SAFETY AFTER DRY FIRING.

the safety will not be able to go on when the rifle is not cocked. You will break it if you try to force it
Click to expand...

This is not referenced in the manual, unless I somehow missed it. But I know what you mean. I bought 2 10/22 on the same day. On one the saftey operated properly in any circumstance. On the other, the safety would not work when the rifle was not cocked as you describe. I exchanged the one that wouldn't work and now both of them have a functioning safety after dry fire.

Just my experience.
 
rxanderq said:
No I haven't zeroed my scope. I was not aware of this because my the elevation and windage adjustment was hidden under caps.
I'll have to adjust it and apply some Loctite next time then.



I've never forced it, I always pulled the bolt when i noticed some resistance.

However, I just handled my rifle and noticed even when the safety is on, if the bolt is open it the trigger can still be pulled. Is this normal?
When the bolt is closed and the safety is on, the trigger can still be pulled back, just not all the way.
Click to expand...

If you don't hear a click then the safety is working just fine. Don't rely on mechanical safeties, they're insurance in case you drop or otherwise lose control of the firearm. As far as dry firing goes, it makes no difference, been dry firing my rimfire rifles for 20 years without issue.

TDC
 
Have a look at the” ballistic/trajectory” charts for the rimfire calibers.
It is a sticky on this rimfire forum.
A .22 rnd will rise slightly in the first 50/100 meters before it starts its drop. The type of ammo and velocity affect the amount of rise and drop.
If you know what your rnd will do after you have fired it you can work compensation in for bullet drop, windage and distance.
 
TDC said:
If you don't hear a click then the safety is working just fine. Don't rely on mechanical safeties, they're insurance in case you drop or otherwise lose control of the firearm. As far as dry firing goes, it makes no difference, been dry firing my rimfire rifles for 20 years without issue.

TDC
Click to expand...
for me it was not so much about that "snap" as the ball detent pops into place, as it was half engaging the ball, it could easily slide back into the unsafe position. For me it was an issue and obviously cabela's agreed as they exchanged the gun without any issue.

I am sure many people wouldn't mind that it was only half working, because like you said, they don't rely on it. I just happen to have a zero tolerance for malfunctioning safety equipment.
 
rxanderq said:
No I haven't zeroed my scope. I was not aware of this because my the elevation and windage adjustment was hidden under caps.
I'll have to adjust it and apply some Loctite next time then.




I've never forced it, I always pulled the bolt when i noticed some resistance.

However, I just handled my rifle and noticed even when the safety is on, if the bolt is open it the trigger can still be pulled. Is this normal?
When the bolt is closed and the safety is on, the trigger can still be pulled back, just not all the way.
Click to expand...

No loctite on the scope adjustments. That will fubar the scope. Locktite is for the scope mount screws. Use the removable kind.

Why would you try to apply the safety after you dropped the hammer on an empty chamber? Safety is for when the rifle is loaded, ready to shoot, but you are not. Apply the safety then.
Safeties on most rifles do not work if the hammer has been dropped from the cocked position.
An empty chamber is as safe as it gets.

You really need to hook up with someone experienced.

Cheers
Trev
 
trevj said:
No loctite on the scope adjustments. That will fubar the scope. Locktite is for the scope mount screws. Use the removable kind.

Why would you try to apply the safety after you dropped the hammer on an empty chamber? Safety is for when the rifle is loaded, ready to shoot, but you are not. Apply the safety then.
Safeties on most rifles do not work if the hammer has been dropped from the cocked position.
An empty chamber is as safe as it gets.

You really need to hook up with someone experienced.

Cheers
Trev
Click to expand...

I think thats what he is trying to do here. To the OP: Everything you mentioned is normal. The extra resistance you feel when cycling the action after dry firing is the bolt re-setting the hammer. The 10/22 is, as you mention, dry fire safe. Ive been dry firing mine for 15 years with no problems. As for the scope rings coming loose, switch to weaver mount rather then the 3/8" dovetail. There are at least 2 weaver slots in your rail, maybe more depending on the model. They have much more surface area and clamping force designed for centerfire rifles. They will not shoot loose, especially if you grab a set with 4 cap screws per saddle. No loctite required. You can get dovetail rings with a set screw to help stop them from walking forward on the rail but IMO most are inadequate for a .22. Dont hesitate to ask questions, its how we learn. Nevermind those who get pissy over it.
 
rxanderq said:
I took my Ruger 10/22 to the range yesterday for the first time and I noticed a few issues. I'm hoping CGN can suggest a few fixes

I am using a Bushnell 3-9 Scope, and shooting a targer 5-15m away.

  1. The shot lands on the target much lower than where I am aiming, about 5-10cm when the targer is about 10m away. Do I simply aim higher or are there adjustments I can make to my scope?
  2. The screws holding my scope to the mount keep coming loose after firing several rounds. Could I just secure it with some Loctite Blue? I am using Weaver branded scope mounts.
  3. I didnt keep count of my shots, as a result I dry-fired a few times. I understand dry firing is okay on a Ruger 10/22. However, I noticed after I dry fire, putting the safety back on is met with some resistance, unless I pull the bolt back again. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

Where are you located? If you are in Kelowna,BC area send me a PM, if not let us know where you are and I am sure some nice local member will give you a hand figuring it all out.
Kim
 
rslowe said:
Have a look at the” ballistic/trajectory” charts for the rimfire calibers.
It is a sticky on this rimfire forum.
A .22 rnd will rise slightly in the first 50/100 meters before it starts its drop. The type of ammo and velocity affect the amount of rise and drop.
If you know what your rnd will do after you have fired it you can work compensation in for bullet drop, windage and distance.
Click to expand...

well... Actually... once the bullet leaves the barrel, there are only two forces that have any real effect on the bullet - air resistance (including wind blowing the bullet off course) and gravity.

Gravity is the big one - if the barrel is horizontal when you fire, and the ground is flat, the bullet fired will hit the ground at the same time as if you'd dropped it from the muzzle (give or take milliseconds)

The reason a bullet rises after you fire it is that the sights are pointing at the target, while the barrel under the sights is tilted upwards to account for the gravitational drop. The trajectory of the bullet is essentially "lobbed" - you fire upward through the line of sight, it arcs over top of the line of sight, and then falls below the line of sight. IIRC, if you zero a .308 at 25 m, it will also be on zero at 100 m, above the line between 25 and 100, and below the line when between 0-25 and again after 100. (even if these numbers aren't exactly right, that's the gist of it)...
You should be able to see this when you look at a rifle from behind and to the side if it has a scope - the body of the scope points at a slight slope toward the muzzle. Another excellent way to visualize this is to take (say) a Moisin Nagant, or a Swedish "gustafs" mauser, or a SMLE, all of which have the rear sight that elevates up to well over 1000m or yards, crank the sight up there, stick the rifle on a bench with the sights pointing at the target, and guestimate where the bullet path will cross the line of sight.

However, you are right that the type and velocity of ammo will affect the amount of rise and drop (the trajectory) as will the shape of the bullet... (higher BC, less drag, longer time spent supersonic, more predictable for longer distances - e.g., a .308 155 grain sierra "palma" bullet launched at 2800 f/s is still supersonic at 1000 yards)
Cheers.
w
 
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