.41LC loading, how do I crimp?

Sardaukar

Sardaukar

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So I have a .41LC Colt 1892, I've had it for a while now, and I never shot it. And I'm a reloading newbie.

I got brass, primers, dies, a mold and bullets cast from it... It's a hollow base bullet mold, and from what I gathered around, I need to crimp the brass if I want the bullet to stay in place.

That's the big question, how do I go about crimping .41LC? I have a Redding die set for .41LC, and I don't know where to go from there. I feel like I'm so close...

Please help!
 
Not familiar with Redding but all the dies I have for multiple calibers (RCBS, LEE & CH4D) crimp & seat in the same step. Check your instructions for your dies, but usually the process to set it is 1) loosen your seating die & back off the seater plug & then run your ram all the way up with a case only (no bullet) then thread (by hand) your seating die BODY (not the seater plug) down until it contacts the case mouth. 2) Lower your ram and then turn your die body (not the seating plug) so much (check your instructions) further and then tighten your lock nut. Then adjust bullet seating depth.

The .41 LC isn't a heeled bullet is it? If it is, that could change the above I really don't know. Someone will chime in.


...I should add that there are also available, dies that only crimp. Not to confuse you. But usually when you buy a SET, crimping is accomplished in that set.


...AANNNDDD not all calibers require crimping. I usually crimp anything magazine fed but I don't always crimp REVOLVER rounds. Your .41 LC, provided you have a tight case mouth, may not require a crimp at all
 
Basically 41 LC round is heeled, I used to use a pair of pliers before kind member sold me his custom crimping rig. Or you could use a punch to put a couple of dimples near the mouth of the brass,

You really do need to crimp for most revolver rounds as each shot on a full cylinder will start to move the bullet out of the case until OAL of the unfired rounds actually increases to the point that it stops rotating the cylinder. If you only fire one or two rounds at a time you won't need a crimp. Typically in magazine fed pistols crimping is optional as you usually don't have the bullet creep problem. That said if you want consistent bullet velocities, crimp all your reloads.
 
Actually I crimp in mag fed because I've seen bullets be pushed into the case (increases pressure). This was also advice I've received over the years, supported when I've witnessed that undesirable effect. I have seen it in a tube fed Winchester 30-30 & also a .45-70 Marlin; as well as a 9mm. All handloads with no or improper crimping. Shooting my .38 & .45 revolvers, I have not experienced a change in OAL that caused any sort of mechanical issue or was noticeable after ejecting un-fired rounds.

Not saying it can't happen, this could be one of the differences between heeled & non.
 
I suspect your seeing decreased OAL in magazine feed rounds is more due the loading or reloading of rounds into the magazine vs it being moved by the pressure/vibration of discharge. Trust me if your non crimped revolver rounds(even in a non heeled round) are hot enough they will move.
 
The redding die set will have a crimper. If your mold is hollow base it is most likely just hollow base, though there are a few hollow/heeled base out there which require a custom tool to crimp. What brand is your mold?
 
i crimp .357 & .44 but not usually .38 or light .45 as long as neck tension is sufficient to hold the bullet (and a light load). I started doing that 15 years ago on the advice of some older guys and never looked back. I'm not saying to anyone else "don't crimp" just stating my own experience.

It works for me, to each their own

Crimping is a must otherwise IMO especially in a mag fed. Recoil is definitely the culprint especially in a box fed mag where the nose of the next doesn't contact the bullet in front (loading isn't the cause of the force).
 
There's two differnt kinds of bullets for the the 41 LC.

One is a heeled bullet, and may be a hollow base or not. The heel shank is approximately .386" diameter, and the bullet forward of the heel is about .403" diameter. Regular crimping die won't work on this bullet because if it fits over the .403" part it won't crimp on .386". You can make a crimping tool from a pair of vise grips, or special order a LEE die for it. I've shot several hundred of these without crimping and had no problem at all. There is no tube magazine and recoil is not heavy enough move any bullets. As long as your brass is in good shape and has good neck tension it seems to work Ok without crimping.

The other kind of bullet is the 0.386" hollow based bullet. Your crimping dies should work OK with this bullet because it does not have a reduced diameter heel; the whole bullet is 0.386 OD so your crimping die should work fine.

Here is a really good write up on reloading 41 long colt: http://harryo.sixshootercommunity.org/
 
I used a Rapine mold, hollow base.

I seem to remember reading that crimping helps reaching the pressure required to expand the base of the bullet, since it is undersized and needs the expansion to seal and stabilize.

I'm glad to hear it should work with the dies I already have. I was under the impression that I needed a special tool to crimp, but it would make sense that it's the heeled bullet that requires one.

Thanks a lot for the answers.
 
Just for your info guys, I started a group buy on Cast Boolits for a double cavity hollow based .41 Long Colt bullet. We need 10 to 20 more people to sign up for it to get it on the schedule. MP Moulds is the company who will make it - they are one of the top mould manufacturers in the world, bar none.

Cost will be approximately $US90 plus $US15 shipping and you no payment is needed until the mould is ready to ship, which is probably a year from now. At that time the manufacturer will send you a message asking for payment via (FRAUD ALERT), and a couple weeks later it will show up in the mail. There is no cost to sign up to the group buy and you can change your mind and pull out any time if you need to. If you are interested you could see more info and sign up here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-2-cavity-Brass-Hollow-Base-41-Long-Colt-mold

If anyone has any questions about the mould or the group buy, ask them here or send a PM. Thanks.
 
I run a Bernie's Old West hollow base mold.
And with some degree of certainty I can say...yes just crimp it. I've got the Redding dies too, they work fine.
I use 4 1/2 grains of Unique to bump the skirt on the HB bullet. But I'd guess the load must be fairly sedate as compared to OEM as the slower bullet allows the recoil to come into effect before the bullet exits the muzzle. Thus it shoots high ( out of a 1889 colt w/4 " bbl).
But aiming low to compensate seems wiser than loading it hotter. It is 120 +/- years old
Good luck and stay safe.
 
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