I'm a retard...

vermintrex

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Was sweating out the cosmo from the stock of my '52 Tula SKS laminate stock using the baseboard heater in the bathroom...for the longest time it didn't seem to be doing anything at all...so I repositioned it so part of the stock was about 3 inches from the heater...well, took all of about 5 minutes to bubble the shellac......godammit.


meltedSKS-1.jpg




Funny thing is I ordered my 2nd SKS from Westrifle about an hour before I messed this one up ...a '54 Tula numbers matching hardwood stock which I think is an unissued rifle.

Anyway...guess I now have a winter project that I didn't want. Any tips on stripping and refinishing a laminate stock ? I'd want to try and replicate the original dark russian red that I just messed up.
 
I wouldn't worry about that little problem you caused. You will learn how to strip and refinish, personally I like the original shellac finish when it is in excellent shape but I'm sure you can get it into original or better condition than what you had. Some refinishing experts will chime in now...
 
I wouldn't worry about that little problem you caused. You will learn how to strip and refinish, personally I like the original shellac finish when it is in excellent shape but I'm sure you can get it into original or better condition than what you had. Some refinishing experts will chime in now...

hope so...cause I'm pretty pissed at myself. I don't think it was a collectable...but it was my first and in pretty good condition.
 
Well, I have stripped and refinished quite a few Soviet stocks now.

The thing about shellac is that by heating it up, it brings it back to a tacky spreadable state.

You could use mineral spirits and some 0000 steel wool in the one burned area to remove the shellac in that spot IF it will come off after burning it.

You may be able to gently heat up the areas around it and spread the shellac back over the spot.

Worst case scenario you can always strip the whole stock and redo it with a new prepared shellac finish.

I prefer to use straight BLO mixed with a tad of thinner to get it deep in the pores if I'm going to refinish the whole stock.

Not personally a fan of shellac, don't like the feel, don't like the look, don't like it all lol
 
Well, I have stripped and refinished quite a few Soviet stocks now.

The thing about shellac is that by heating it up, it brings it back to a tacky spreadable state.

You could use mineral spirits and some 0000 steel wool in the one burned area to remove the shellac in that spot IF it will come off after burning it.

You may be able to gently heat up the areas around it and spread the shellac back over the spot.

Worst case scenario you can always strip the whole stock and redo it with a new prepared shellac finish.

I prefer to use straight BLO mixed with a tad of thinner to get it deep in the pores if I'm going to refinish the whole stock.

Not personally a fan of shellac, don't like the feel, don't like the look, don't like it all lol

I think at this point there's enough damage to forget ever being able to keep it original. With that in mind I'd consider totally stripping and sanding it...the original shellac job was pretty lumpy as I'm sure most SKS owners know and love, but I think I could improve on that....just need a step-by-step tutorial if that exists.
 
I think at this point there's enough damage to forget ever being able to keep it original. With that in mind I'd consider totally stripping and sanding it...the original shellac job was pretty lumpy as I'm sure most SKS owners know and love, but I think I could improve on that....just need a step-by-step tutorial if that exists.
You dont need sanding. Use paint stripper, polish stock with medium and fine steel wool, clean wood with solvent(lacquer thinner),let it dry completely. Apply new finish, a recipe i tried before is 2 coats of Minwax wood stain special walnut and 4-5 coats of thung oil, with very fine steel wool polishing between coats of oil. Thung oil make very nice finish.
Joce
 
The problem with the original shellac is it's really a poor finish for the rifle. Can't take heat and it's a poor finish for being in the rain (if it saw "duty"). Spilling your rum & coke on it could damage the shellac too (dissolves in alcohol). :)

General comment: for a rifle that is deemed collectible, you should leave it alone. Better to have a damaged original finish than a "new" one. I'll let you decide where your rifle is on that scale. :)

If you want to make this one a durable shooter, then chemically strip off the old finish and use a polymerized tung oil finish. This will cure much faster than a non-polymerized tung oil finish.

Here's a thread I made a while back that documented the refinishing of my Chinese SKS, including fixing numerous flaws in the stock.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...wly-updated-SKS-wood-stock-refinishing-thread
 
If you're looking to strip it right off and apply a new finish, it's really easy to make it look great.

Use paint thinner to strip the shellac, get it all out and don't be shy with the thinner. You can use 0000 steel wool and stiff tooth brush to scrub off the shellac, it's what I have used before and it works great. Don't scrub too hard.

You can then let it sit overnight to dry or wait a couple hours and do the whole thing over to make sure you got it all if you are doubting yourself as to wether you got it all out of the wood.

Usually one stripping will do just fine. After you are happy with the removale of the old finish let the stock dry for at least a day, I usually wait two to make sure she is dried right out.

For the sanding I use 150gr and very lightly go over the whole stock. Do not oversand it, you don't want to remove any more wood than you have to. I'll usually go over the whole thing once more with 220 grit or thereabouts to give it a smooth finish.

Use a can of duster or a compressed air hose if you have them to get all the wood dust off the stock. You can just use a wetted soft cloth but then you'll have to let the stock dry again overnight before proceeding.

The finish I use is boiled linseed oil mixed with a dash of paint thinner. You can get boiled linseed oil (BLO) at any home depot. Just pour some BLO into a container that has a resealable lid, say maybe about 50 ml into it. Then pour a capful or so of paint thinner into it and give it a good shake with the lid sealed. The thinner will thin out the BLO so when you apply it, it will run deep into the pores of the wood carrying the oil with it, as it dries out the thinner evaporates and leaves the oil behind. That's the idea as it was explained to me by my brother who is a master woodworker. Works awesome for him and me so far lol good enough.

What you want to do is get some of the mix on your fingers, don't be shy, just dip your fingers right in and slather it on the stock. Start in one area, I usually break the stock down into sections, so I'll start with the buttstock. Just rub that stuff into it using your bare hands. Rub it in in circular motions at first using moderate pressure. Once a whole area is saturated start doing long hard strokes with the palm and build up some friction heat and really work it in (thats what SHE said! :D).

Do the whole stock in this manner. You should use enough of the mix that by the time you are done there will still be some excess wet spots of oil on the surface of the stock. Use a clean cloth to lightly damp away the excess oil. Let the stock dry for at least 2 days in a nice warm spot in the house that isn't too damp or cold (ie not the garage or a humid basement).

The next coats you will do take your 0000 steel wool and lightly rub the stock down with it going with the grain! This will open the pores back up for the next application you are about to do. After the steel wool use a cloth again to lightly clean anything that might be sitting on the stock. Repeat the oil mix application process.

I usually do this about 7-8 times.

The process is as simple as it gets and the results are amazing!

I basically figured this method out from talking to my brother and reading numerous websites on gun and furniture finishing lol

Here's a couple stocks I did myself using the above method exactly:

P4210112.jpg


P4210115.jpg


P4090005.jpg


PB170252.jpg


You get better and better at the finer details the more you do. I even started ironing out the dents in the stocks before the sanding step to really restore them back to original beauty.

This is the latest one I did which is by far my best. It's a 1944 Soviet Mosin M44. The finish was a flakey crusted shellac and there were a lot of dings and dents in her. Again I used the above method (also with some minor ironing/raising of the dents before sanding):

PB250275.jpg


PB250277.jpg


You can see for such a simple method it really does work very very well.

Let me know if you need any more details on how to do it, I'll be glad to help man!

Cheers!
 
If you're looking to strip it right off and apply a new finish, it's really easy to make it look great.

Use paint thinner to strip the shellac, get it all out and don't be shy with the thinner. You can use 0000 steel wool and stiff tooth brush to scrub off the shellac, it's what I have used before and it works great. Don't scrub too hard.

You can then let it sit overnight to dry or wait a couple hours and do the whole thing over to make sure you got it all if you are doubting yourself as to wether you got it all out of the wood.

Usually one stripping will do just fine. After you are happy with the removale of the old finish let the stock dry for at least a day, I usually wait two to make sure she is dried right out.

For the sanding I use 150gr and very lightly go over the whole stock. Do not oversand it, you don't want to remove any more wood than you have to. I'll usually go over the whole thing once more with 220 grit or thereabouts to give it a smooth finish.

Use a can of duster or a compressed air hose if you have them to get all the wood dust off the stock. You can just use a wetted soft cloth but then you'll have to let the stock dry again overnight before proceeding.

The finish I use is boiled linseed oil mixed with a dash of paint thinner. You can get boiled linseed oil (BLO) at any home depot. Just pour some BLO into a container that has a resealable lid, say maybe about 50 ml into it. Then pour a capful or so of paint thinner into it and give it a good shake with the lid sealed. The thinner will thin out the BLO so when you apply it, it will run deep into the pores of the wood carrying the oil with it, as it dries out the thinner evaporates and leaves the oil behind. That's the idea as it was explained to me by my brother who is a master woodworker. Works awesome for him and me so far lol good enough.

What you want to do is get some of the mix on your fingers, don't be shy, just dip your fingers right in and slather it on the stock. Start in one area, I usually break the stock down into sections, so I'll start with the buttstock. Just rub that stuff into it using your bare hands. Rub it in in circular motions at first using moderate pressure. Once a whole area is saturated start doing long hard strokes with the palm and build up some friction heat and really work it in (thats what SHE said! :D).

Do the whole stock in this manner. You should use enough of the mix that by the time you are done there will still be some excess wet spots of oil on the surface of the stock. Use a clean cloth to lightly damp away the excess oil. Let the stock dry for at least 2 days in a nice warm spot in the house that isn't too damp or cold (ie not the garage or a humid basement).

The next coats you will do take your 0000 steel wool and lightly rub the stock down with it going with the grain! This will open the pores back up for the next application you are about to do. After the steel wool use a cloth again to lightly clean anything that might be sitting on the stock. Repeat the oil mix application process.

I usually do this about 7-8 times.

The process is as simple as it gets and the results are amazing!

I basically figured this method out from talking to my brother and reading numerous websites on gun and furniture finishing lol

Here's a couple stocks I did myself using the above method exactly:

P4210112.jpg


P4210115.jpg


P4090005.jpg


PB170252.jpg


You get better and better at the finer details the more you do. I even started ironing out the dents in the stocks before the sanding step to really restore them back to original beauty.

This is the latest one I did which is by far my best. It's a 1944 Soviet Mosin M44. The finish was a flakey crusted shellac and there were a lot of dings and dents in her. Again I used the above method (also with some minor ironing/raising of the dents before sanding):

PB250275.jpg


PB250277.jpg


You can see for such a simple method it really does work very very well.

Let me know if you need any more details on how to do it, I'll be glad to help man!

Cheers!

wow...awesome results and great instructions...thanks man !!

your SKS looks absolutely amazing. Is there anything I need to do to get a nice dark red-brown like yours...or is BLO enough ?

thanks for the help....kinda stoked to give it a go !
 
wow...awesome results and great instructions...thanks man !!

your SKS looks absolutely amazing. Is there anything I need to do to get a nice dark red-brown like yours...or is BLO enough ?

thanks for the help....kinda stoked to give it a go !

That SKS is 1950 Tula with a solid birch stock.

Birch is usually a light golden coloured like my SVT40 and M44 pictured.

I remember reading somewhere that the soviets had actually heat hardened some of the original birch SKS stocks which is what gave them the dark red splotching like that.

Ive also been told that depending on how much grease, grime, cosmoline, oil etc is imbedded in the stock will heavily affect the end result of the refinishing process hence the darker spots on my SKS stock but still being able to see some of that light birch under it all.

It's just the way the whole thing came out by using my method to be honest. It was also the first one I ever did lol Yours is a laminate stock so it will not turn out the exact same.

Sometimes there is no real way to know how they are going to turn out until you do them. I have never regretted refinishing one yet though lol

Judging by the look of your stock from the picture you posted it should stay relatively dark.

Also, if you really want to remove all the oil and grime and restore the stock to the original colour as best you can you can use other methods after stripping off the shellac. Some involve harsh chemicals and I usually would not recomend it. I have used the oven cleaner method and while yes it does strip every drop of anything out of the wood right down to the nude lol, it also is very hard on the grain and in some cases loosens it up so badly that it damages the wood permanently. So I would avoid it from personal experience.
 
That SKS is 1950 Tula with a solid birch stock.

Birch is usually a light golden coloured like my SVT40 and M44 pictured.

I remember reading somewhere that the soviets had actually heat hardened some of the original birch SKS stocks which is what gave them the dark red splotching like that.

Ive also been told that depending on how much grease, grime, cosmoline, oil etc is imbedded in the stock will heavily affect the end result of the refinishing process hence the darker spots on my SKS stock but still being able to see some of that light birch under it all.

It's just the way the whole thing came out by using my method to be honest. It was also the first one I ever did lol Yours is a laminate stock so it will not turn out the exact same.

Sometimes there is no real way to know how they are going to turn out until you do them. I have never regretted refinishing one yet though lol

Judging by the look of your stock from the picture you posted it should stay relatively dark.

Also, if you really want to remove all the oil and grime and restore the stock to the original colour as best you can you can use other methods after stripping off the shellac. Some involve harsh chemicals and I usually would not recomend it. I have used the oven cleaner method and while yes it does strip every drop of anything out of the wood right down to the nude lol, it also is very hard on the grain and in some cases loosens it up so badly that it damages the wood permanently. So I would avoid it from personal experience.

ok..gotcha. well I think I'm gonna have a go at it. It's damaged now so I really don't have anything to lose. I've got a probably nicer specimen ( hardwood stock) on it's way to me anyway.

Really appreciate the help. Will make sure to give a progress report with pictures....hopefully worth looking at ; )
 
This might sound wierd, but for some reason I really like the look of that laminate toe splice :)

You could try usign some denatured alcohol on a cloth to try to spread the shellac around and cover the bubbled part. Otherwise, you can get all 3 colours of dewaxed shellac flakes on evilbay for pretty cheap. Most russian guns use garnet shellac, the cheapest stuff, but I've seen some that were amber or blonde too.
 
ok..gotcha. well I think I'm gonna have a go at it. It's damaged now so I really don't have anything to lose. I've got a probably nicer specimen ( hardwood stock) on it's way to me anyway.

Really appreciate the help. Will make sure to give a progress report with pictures....hopefully worth looking at ; )
Search this forum and look at some of the examples of refinished laminate stocks. You may prefer darker over lighter so keep that in mind when you choose your finishing process. BLO is very light so if you want it darker, you'll want to tint it. Since you are filling the pores of the wood with oil, you won't have much chance to correct the colour if you want to change it.

You could try removing the shellac and applying a fresh coat of garnet shellac. This will be the closest to the original finish in colour. If that doesn't go well, you can strip it again and go with tung oil or BLO.

fyi, shellac is a "film coat" finish that simply lays on top without a ton of penetration into the grain. Tung oil or BLO goes into the grain and hardens, protecting the wood much better than shellac.
 
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