I'm a retard...
- Thread starter vermintrex
- Start date
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
There's hope. It's called pure Tung oil, and the results are amazing (and easy to do).
See photos here:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...ian-SKS-laminate-stock-refinished-in-tung-oil
See photos here:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...ian-SKS-laminate-stock-refinished-in-tung-oil
Is there any way to tint it darker red ? It looks great, and the finish is much nicer than the shellac, but I definitely like the darker cherry/mahogany look of the original finish.
ok, great. thanks. sorry for the dumb questions, just not sure what can be mixed with what...knowing me I'll somehow create a poisonous gas cloud
handofzeus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Trout Creekish Ontario.
Try rubbing with a little acetone on a clean cloth.
Stick to oil/solvent based stains when mixing with Tung oil. I bought my red stain at Cloverdale Paint. Mohawk Finishing Supplies will have the right colour too. Many other places didn't sell the right stuff - or it's called "cherry" and is more of a brown colour.
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
If you want to darken it up more, MIX some quality oil-based stain (and I mean ** SOME **) to a small container of tung oil. I found that a brownish stain works best. It's really a bit of an experimental exercise. I first tried using a mahogany coloured stain, and my SKS came out PURPLE !! What you see on the can at Home Depot isn't always how it will look on your SKS. I was devastated. However, I QUICKLY cleaned off the tung oil/stain mix and all was o.k. Be careful with staining! 
"Bombay mahogany"? That's why I stay away from Home Depot if I'm looking for something in particular. Mohawk and Cloverdale Paint will carry a nice red-brown colour. Here is the can I'm using from Cloverdale Paint and you can see the colour sku written on it (didn't come with a label). It's quite a few years old, but someone there can help you out.
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
hunterinthewoods
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I have used the tung oil method on my SKS lam stock.
Turned out great, my mosin wood was fubar'd during shipping so I stripped it and dyed it with rubbing alcohol/iodine mix , then alcohol/RIT dye mix for color, followed by BLO treatment.
I do prefer the feel of BLO over tung oil...thats just me. I have done many stocks in tung, but many many more in BLO. RIT dye and alcohol really penetrate hard woods and I have found it the best method for getting my colors just right.
...photos here....
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?822327-Picture-day-for-my-red-rifles
Turned out great, my mosin wood was fubar'd during shipping so I stripped it and dyed it with rubbing alcohol/iodine mix , then alcohol/RIT dye mix for color, followed by BLO treatment.
I do prefer the feel of BLO over tung oil...thats just me. I have done many stocks in tung, but many many more in BLO. RIT dye and alcohol really penetrate hard woods and I have found it the best method for getting my colors just right.
...photos here....
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?822327-Picture-day-for-my-red-rifles
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
Funny, I used both, and I have the opposite opinion of BLO, but to each their own.
I guess we can all agree that if the finish is fubared, a low-lustre oil finish is definitely the way to go.
You have an interesting staining method. I might try that on my next project stock.
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
I've used tung oil as well.
Not a fan at all.
Too glossy and wet sheen looking for my taste.
I find the BLO gives a nice flat coloured dry looking low gloss finish most military rifles originally had.
Everyne has their preferences I suppose.
Not a fan at all.
Too glossy and wet sheen looking for my taste.
I find the BLO gives a nice flat coloured dry looking low gloss finish most military rifles originally had.
Everyne has their preferences I suppose.
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
Both the stocks I recently did with Tung oil were very low-lustre, and they had a nice hard finish. It's all about application methods:
1954 Tula Laminate Refurb
1952 Tula Laminate Refurb, with parkerized/Arma-coated metal:
2010 Brno 802 combination gun 12ga/30-06:
1954 Tula Laminate Refurb
1952 Tula Laminate Refurb, with parkerized/Arma-coated metal:
2010 Brno 802 combination gun 12ga/30-06:
hunterinthewoods
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I agree, you can get a nice low lustre with tung oil, just thin multiple coats, wipe off and do not let dry for a long period of time....add some steel wool.....
You are correct, all about application.
Tung oil doesn't sheen up if you lightly buff it within 15 or so minutes of applying it. Let it sit for 6-8 hours at room temp and apply another coat - buff and repeat. It really works nicely as a finish on 2 or more applications of Danish oil.
I have an all original MAS36 that needed a replacement screw and trigger spring so I bought this one as a parts gun. Found a better, lighter spring on the floor of my shed and found a new screw at CT so this one got renovated into a pretty decent shooter.
It was just a barreled action and non-matching mag and bolt with only a small chunk of the buttstock remaining. It was a refurbished import from Golden State Arms Corp. They called it their 'Santa Fe Model 49'. The loose fitting barleycorn front sight was replaced with one off an old CZ/BRNO.
I restocked it with 3 layers of cherry for the buttstock and a rock maple core sandwiched in 4 layers of cherry for the forestock. Stained with 2 applications of a dark Danish oil and finished with several applications of tung&teak.
It's got a fully functional SKS buttplate/trapdoor and return spring. The cleaning kit has a takedown tool (flathead screwdriver welded to an allen key), cross pin and a jag on a pull-through.
I have an all original MAS36 that needed a replacement screw and trigger spring so I bought this one as a parts gun. Found a better, lighter spring on the floor of my shed and found a new screw at CT so this one got renovated into a pretty decent shooter.
It was just a barreled action and non-matching mag and bolt with only a small chunk of the buttstock remaining. It was a refurbished import from Golden State Arms Corp. They called it their 'Santa Fe Model 49'. The loose fitting barleycorn front sight was replaced with one off an old CZ/BRNO.
I restocked it with 3 layers of cherry for the buttstock and a rock maple core sandwiched in 4 layers of cherry for the forestock. Stained with 2 applications of a dark Danish oil and finished with several applications of tung&teak.
It's got a fully functional SKS buttplate/trapdoor and return spring. The cleaning kit has a takedown tool (flathead screwdriver welded to an allen key), cross pin and a jag on a pull-through.
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Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Nice job guys!
Still, I'll stick to my simple old BLO
Still, I'll stick to my simple old BLO
Really nice job on the Mosin, hitw. Does the iodine leave an odor? How dark can you get the lighter woods with it? Mix ratios?
Cherry is my favorite bow wood and have been trying lots of different 'traditional' dyes and coloring techiniques on it. May have to give iodine a go.
Thanks for the pics.
hunterinthewoods
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
The iodine only had only a few coats for a base color, I'm sure the more you put on the darker it would get. No left over odor. Just BLO!
I just added it to the alcohol a few drops at a time, until it reached what I thought was a good color, test it on another piece obviously.
The Rit dye is a bit different, added different parts mix of yellow/red to get you desired color, but it will make a slurry left on the bottom when mixed with alcohol. You need to be careful not to pick up any granules, just use the liquid dye on the top.
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