First Gun a self built AR?

That's where the experience comes in, after firing and maintaining guns for a few years, you end up with most of the tools you need, and only end up needed certain AR specific tools to do the build.

There is a bunch of stuff there you don't really need unless you're a pro armourer.

98% of the gun can be assembled using common tools you already have, it's installing the barrel where you need the combo tool, upper vise block, solid vise and torque wrench.

Lots of people are going to tell you how easy it is, but that's cause they are all experienced shooters who have worked on guns for years, at which point, building an AR is a breeze.

To do this, it's going to require mechanical aptitude and the finesse that comes with years of using hand tools on various projects. If you have that experience, then chances are you've already accumulated a small arsenal of tools.

Long story short, if you don't already own a set of needle nose pliers and the Brass Nylon hammer (or have extrapolated an appropriate substitute) because you've needed them for previous endeavors, and you've never used a torque wrench before, then I hazard to guess that you might she shy the experience to build an AR.

I could be wrong, some people jsut have it, like me. I built my AR without asking anyone a single questions about it.
And it was also my first AR, and the first I'd ever fired, and the 3rd I'd held and seen in person.
But, I've worked on guns for years, and worked on dirt bikes for years before that, and worked or guitars, cameras, you name it years before that.
I had all the standard tools and knew how to use them, I researched online to fill in the blanks, everything else I needed to know I just knew from experience.
The only research I needed to do really was what make parts to use and where to get them.

Now, keeping this in mind, when I got my first gun, I still looked at the thing like "Derp, how do I take this apart for cleaning."

So yeah, my advise if you do do this, keep it simple, and buy a cheap receiver in case you screw it up and damage it.
Get on the EE, there are deals to be had, and consider buying a complete lower, and just building the upper.

The upper simple to understand but is actually the most challenging part on account that you need the special tools to do it, and if you screw it up, it's cheaper and easier to replace. Then, when you work up the nerve, take the lower apart, see how it goes together, then upgrade it.

Good Luck.
 
The list of what tools you really need depends on what you are building. That list is sort of everything you could ever possibly need.
 
OMG.. that is some crazy list.. you'll be ok with:

Set of pin punches
Brass/rabber hammer
Barrel nut tool (depending what quad rail you are using)
Torque wrench
Armorers wrench
Pliers
And a set of alen keys..

And for extra comfort you could add the the lower receiver vise block and table mat...
 
Are you planning on attaching your own barrel to the upper reciever? If not, you only need a small fraction of those tools.

My first firearm was a self built AR15 and I have zero malfunctions with it, it's pretty easy to do if you are "mechanically inclined."

Thats awesome news!

To do this, it's going to require mechanical aptitude and the finesse that comes with years of using hand tools on various projects. If you have that experience, then chances are you've already accumulated a small arsenal of tools.

Long story short, if you don't already own a set of needle nose pliers and the Brass Nylon hammer (or have extrapolated an appropriate substitute) because you've needed them for previous endeavors, and you've never used a torque wrench before, then I hazard to guess that you might she shy the experience to build an AR.

Dont get me wrong, i do have a bunch of that stuff (or have access to it) and perhaps i should have omitted the obvious stuff, like pliers and allen keys, as i was mainly wondering about the specific gun stuff.
I have herd that almost all of the components for an ar can be assembled with common tools if you have even a little bit of redneck in you......
 
It's great you are researching everything....but I think you are Over-Thinking and Over-Planning it.

That list of tools is huge!

Go to a dollar store get a small hammer.
Roll pin holders? never seen one.......

You are putting a list together of stuff you will never use. But Brownells will be more than happy to sell you.

The upper vise blocks are good. Need to hold the upper to install barrels and rail.

The rest is common tools you should have in the first place.
 
I'm planning out a paper-punching AR, and I have more questions about parts for it. Please keep in mind I'm trying to build a 'value', cool (to me), and effective carbine.

1) For a low profile gas block, is a Spike's good? or should I buy a Troy or Daniel Defence one?
2) Is a DPMS complete bolt/BCG manageable? or should I shell out the extra money for a LMT F/A bolt (non-enhanced version)?
Note: I've had a SKS for 2 years now and still haven't put 2,000 round through it. i.e. I don't shoot huge amounts, and I don't know if I need the one of the BEST bolt/carriers.
 
1) For a low profile gas block, is a Spike's good? or should I buy a Troy or Daniel Defence one?
2) Is a DPMS complete bolt/BCG manageable? or should I shell out the extra money for a LMT F/A bolt (non-enhanced version)?

I picked up a DD low pro gas block, however a Spikes will work for you just fine. I built myself a "budget" AR as well, and I think I was able to keep it under 1000.

The DPMS BCG is fine, however a lot of places are currently sold out, check out ATRS for a standard BCG supplied by Brownell's (well mine seems to have been). I think for the most part keeping a decent quality AR for a low price is easy to achieve, just try to stay away from the "no name" made in china supplied parts, for critical components at least.
 
The best advice I read over here is to buy something cheap and torture it. I will find CQ-A or CQ-311 from EE, play around, learn it, gain proper skills, then make sure I understand what I really want from this platform. After this, hopefully, I will be ready for assembling more expensive parts together with no fear of malfunction at the range.
 
I'm finally at a real keyboard so now I can finally address this list in detail. Even if the OP has sorted it out I think a lot of people would benefit from knowing what the purpose of all that stuff is.

I will assume you're actually doing a build and not just mating a pre-built lower to a pre-built upper, which requires no tools whatsoever.

Ballpeen Hammer 4 to 8 oz - You need a hammer to do things like drive the roll pins from the Lower Parts Kit (LPK) into the receiver, and staking the castle nut.

Nylon/Brass Hammer - Generally useful for tapping things into place with gentle force and not marring things up. For instance, I used one to tap in most of the roll pins (mine had interchangeable heads and a steel head as well which I used for the pins). I also used it to gently tap on my low profile gas block because it fit really tight. Also used it to tap on my AFG2. If you plan on building and servicing your own guns then really you should have one of these.

Bit Driver Screwdriver with 3 ½” shaft
Torx Bit Set
Hex Bit Set
Flat Head bits 340-5 & 300-4
Philips Bits
- You'll need various screwdriver bits and hex bits for putting on your grip, attaching accessories, etc. The Magna-Tips that Brownells sells are really nice, but it doesn't have to be a fancy set. Depending on what you are building you might or might not need all those bits they listed.

Needle Nose Pliers - Can be used to hold roll pins to start them. Generally useful. You ought to have these around your house anyway so just get them if you don't have them.

Lower Receiver Vise Block - Very useful for holding the lower in place while you are staking the castle nut. You can get by without it but the vice block makes it way easier, so really I think it should be more or less a requirement.

Upper Receiver Vise Block Set - You really pretty much need this for torquing the barrel nut into place without deforming or marring your upper receiver. The clamshell type works with just about everything, but if you have a non-standard receiver like a VLTOR, you'll need the type that holds it by the pivot pin and takedown pin holes.

Rifle Bench Block - Helpful but not required. Lets you place a barrel in the rounded out area so you can work on it (drive pins or whatever). I have one but I actually don't use it much currently.

Bench Mat - Helps but not required. An old bedsheet works fine. Depending on your work surface you may or may not need one at all.

Bench Vise - Needed for the vice blocks above.

Padded Vise Jaws - Not really needed for an AR build if you buy vice blocks, but nice to have in general.

Set of Roll Pin Holders in Number 1,2, 3, & 4 - Very nice to have, makes it easier to get the roll pins started. I bought them and was glad I did. You can get by with pliers instead, but the roll pin holders make the job easier. Also lets you use your punch from the other side as a slave to align the hole as you get the pin started.

Set of Roll Pin Punches in Number 1,2, 3, & 4 - Must-have in order to install a LPK into a stripped lower.

Barrel Nut Tool or Combination Armorer’s Wrench - Must-have to install a barrel. Combo tool is good as you can use it also for the castle nut and buffer tube. If you are installing a railed handguard, it might come with a proprietary barrel nut and wrench so you might or might not need this, but you probably ought to have one anyway.

Buttstock Tool (Collapsible Stock Only) - In theory a combo wrench negates the need for this, but I have a dedicated one because it fits the castle nut more securely than my combo wrench. That all being said, some receiver endplates are different (I'm looking at you Magpul ASAP) and while the castle nut is the same, the endplate might get in your way of getting on the castle nut, so you might need the looser wrench to get on the nut enough to torque it. Plus, if you're using your combo wrench to hold your buffer tube from moving while you tighten the castle nut, you need something other than your combo wrench to tighten the castle nut...

Handguard Removal Tool - Useful for installing or removing handguards that are held on with a delta ring. If you're not putting that type of handguard on your build, you don't need this.

½” drive Torque Wrench (30 ft lbs to 150 ft lbs) - needed to torque the castle nut and barrel nut both to spec

3/32” taper starter punch
1/8” flat punch to peen the swivel rivet
Staking punch to start the peen on the swivel rivet
- only needed if you're putting a standard (e.g. A2) front sight/gas block on it. I didn't see it mentioned in your list, but if you are going to install a front sight then save yourself the frustration and get the AR front sight block that Brownells sells, it will make it way easier. I also used that block to install the gas block retaining roll pin into my gas block. I find it actually more useful than the rifle bench block as it has more cutaway area to provide for oddly shaped things like gas blocks.

"Gas Tube Alignment Pin" - If you're using a standard barrel nut, this is just about a must-have. This ensures that when you are cranking on your barrel nut that you get it aligned properly such that the gas tube will go through the holes in the nut on its way to the gas block. Many upper vice block sets come with this, so you might not have to buy it separately. You can align it without one, but it makes it easier.

Snap Ring Pliers - For installing the delta ring, if you are putting on the type of handguard that has one.

Breaker Bar - not needed for a new build. This is basically for loosening stuck things on an existing build. E.g. barrel nut or castle nut is stuck.

Strap Wrench - Only needed for smooth sided handguards that must be cranked on/off.

Headspace Gauge Set Field/Go/No-go - Needed to headspace the barrel. If your are using all milspec components then the headspace check should theoretically never fail, but you then invite Murphy into your life and you don't want to find out the hard way that it failed.

Rear Sight Elevation Spring Tool - only needed for working on the guts of standard (e.g. A2) rear sights. Not needed for a new build, your sights should come pre-assembled.

Sight Adjustment Tool for your type of sight - if you want to hit anything, might be a thought...

Ejector Removal Tool - You have to take out the ejector in order to use the headspace guages, and this makes that a lot easier. It can be done without it, but it sure makes it easier. I personally would not be without one. Also useful later if heaven forbid you ever need to replace a broken ejector.

.151 diameter punch for locating trigger parts & installation - Helps, but you can probably use another punch you already have.

Pivot Pin Detent Installation Tool - Not required, but it does make things easier. I have a slightly different one, the "AR-15/M16 PIVOT PIN INSTALLATION TOOL", and it works great. Without one of those types of tools it will require some fiddling and some care to get the spring and detent installed into the pin without shooting the spring and detent across the room, never to be found again.

Bolt Catch Pin Punch - Pretty much a must-have. It's a bee-yotch to install or remove the bolt catch without one.

AR-15 Hammer Trigger Jig - only needed for tuning triggers

Hammer Trigger Drop Block for adjusting the hammer & trigger - not required, but keeps you from pulling a stupid and dropping the hammer while you have the lower off of the upper, which can damage your lower. Also can be used to safely dry-fire the lower on its own while you are tuning a trigger.


Stuff your list didn't mention:

Railed handguard alignment tool - Not required, but if your handguard has a top rail, it's really good for getting it lined up with the rail on your flattop receiver. You could use a scope ring to do this instead but this makes it a really easy process.

Carrier key staking tool - if you cheap out and buy a bolt carrier that's not properly staked, you might want this.

High temp moly grease - for the extension/buffer tube and the barrel nut, both to ease assembly and to keep them from welding together under heat while the gun is being fired.

Masking/painter's tape - to protect the receiver while you install the bolt catch
 
The best advice I read over here is to buy something cheap and torture it. I will find CQ-A or CQ-311 from EE, play around, learn it, gain proper skills, then make sure I understand what I really want from this platform. After this, hopefully, I will be ready for assembling more expensive parts together with no fear of malfunction at the range.

Bang on advice.

I started with a Norc.

I learned that I am a CQB style of shooter, I am not into precision, and not a fan or variable powered optics.

These lessons would have been expensive if I hadn't of tinkered first.

I have three builds suited to what I like now.
 
I'm finally at a real keyboard so now I can finally address this list in detail. Even if the OP has sorted it out I think a lot of people would benefit from knowing what the purpose of all that stuff is.

This my friend, has been a GREAT help!! Possibly the best bit of info i have seen on this forum, with regard to AR builds!!!!
Thank you so much!!!
 
Forgot to mention... the list didn't have a staking punch on it. You'll need one to stake the castle nut. This doesn't have to be fancy... can be a centre punch or whatever, so long as it will displace material from the receiver end plate into the staking notch on the castle nut. A screwdriver will do in a pinch but it doesn't do as nice a job. Some guys use spring loaded punches for these.
 
Hey all,
So i will start with a simple statement....."I am not an idiot, i just like to get in WAY over my head, and then dig my way out"
Ok, so this in mind.... i have an idea and i want some input....
The Question: Is it feasible for someone who has no real experience with guns to attempt to build his/her own AR-15?

The reason i ask this is because i have NO real experience and i want to build an AR-15...... simple enough right!
I have done a lot of reading and have listened to a BUNCH of podcasts on the topic, and the consensus seems to be the same...its not rocket science! That being said, im wondering if i could be making one to many assumptions.
Here is the back story
SO real quick, im writing my R-PAL test next weekend..... so if all goes to plan, i should be licensed by the end of January.
I have read that when amassing and assembling an AR that only certain parts of the firearm are classed as "restricted" and that many of the pieces are not controlled in any manor.....True or False?
My intent is to collect as much of this stuff as i can and then once im licensed, get the rest of the "tricky" parts and finish of the project.....
so i suppose im looking for insite into the world of AR building, and im hoping no one will rain on my parade! My fear is that someone will point out that short of a few springs and screws.....EVERYTHING on an AR is restricted.... thus making the build a little difficult..... we shall see!?!

Thoughts?

if youve ever played with lego, and know what tools are then your completely capably of putting together an AR. The right tools will make things go alot easier but can be done with the basics also if careful.
 
This entire thread is hilarious IMO, as a first time owner and user, a build is just not the way to go. Just buy one complete, build one later when you decide which direction you'd like to go with it.

It's simple just go out, buy AR, buy ammo, shoot. Nuff Said
 
This entire thread is hilarious IMO, as a first time owner and user, a build is just not the way to go. Just buy one complete, build one later when you decide which direction you'd like to go with it.

It's simple just go out, buy AR, buy ammo, shoot. Nuff Said
Though I respect your opinion my friend, i might point out that we are clearly into this specific hobby for different reasons! If I intended to simply buy ammo and shoot, I would have stuck with paintball or video games. I have chosen to learn about this specific area of guns by casing my self in deep. Sorry if this does not jive with your way of doing things.
 
Hey good on ya ... I am doing the same thing myself (waiting for the parts to arrive currently)

However I skimped out a bit , the lower is coming already complete, couldn't pass up that deal.

Have you sourced any of the tools yet?
 
Though I respect your opinion my friend, i might point out that we are clearly into this specific hobby for different reasons! If I intended to simply buy ammo and shoot, I would have stuck with paintball or video games. I have chosen to learn about this specific area of guns by casing my self in deep. Sorry if this does not jive with your way of doing things.

I feel, as a new shooter, while there is nothing wrong with learning or building all you can, simply buying ammo and shooting it, is whats going to help you learn the fundamentals. I'm just saying that getting out and shooting it is the whole point man, and to a new shooter, rounds down range means a lot, so again, buy ammo, and shoot! There's nothing wrong with trigger time. My suggestion, get a 10/22 as well and put 5-10,000 rounds down range in your first year or so, it's cheap, it's fun, and you'll learn like a sponge soaks up water.

Now if you insist on your first gun being a self built AR, hell, fill yer boots man, to each there own.

Have fun with your build
 
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