First time reloading and quick LnL AP review

T

TheJuggernaut

CGN Regular
Rating - 96.4%
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Finally got everything I needed, tried reloading for the first time (streaming World at War from the desktop).

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Generally, it's a success. Reloaded 100 rounds of 50AE and 40S&W.

But I have a few gripes. I like the press a lot and I would easily recommend it but I think they could have taken more care at the factory to set it up. The manual and video says that the indexing pawls should not need adjustment, until the press gets all old and worn out. But it would clearly not index properly, especially if I moved the ram slowly. Granted the adjustment is very easy and once done, it indexed perfectly but... why didn't they do that? Then I had problems with the primer ram getting stuck. Before I realized it, ended up making a mess with the powder. Later having to watch the ram, forgot to place a bullet a couple of times :) The manual said that this could happen if the ram housing isn't twisted as it's tightened. I loosened, twisted, and tightened. It seemed to cure the problem (it still got stuck a couple of times but I think at this point it was the grains of powder that were here and there - once I changed things over to the 40 and cleaned it up, I had no problems). Again... something that could have been done at the factory.

I also don't know what it will take to keep powder from sticking to the inside of the powder drop. I cleaned everything with their spray, wiped down clean. The drop tubes don't stick so the drops are very consistent but when I go to clean it up after use, I get a layer of powder that sticks inside the funnel, like it's stuck on by static (since getting a rag inside loosens it immediately and it pours out). Tried cleaning it again, this time with soap, wiped down, resprayed with the drylube and wiped down, same result.
 
I found that it took more lube on the shells than you might think. Otherwise, a pretty decent rig. Pretty consistent.

I did break the same part twice before I got the lube right. Hornady replaced it free of cost. Twice.

I also found that the ball powder worked best.
 
It took me 50 rounds to realize that my 40S&W weren't lubed at all... it had zero trouble with them.

The 50AE was a different matter. The regular Hornady casings were just fine. But the damn plated Speer "Magnum Research" casings were like a pineapple up the anus through the decapping die every time, little or a lot of lube, no difference. After I was done I decided to try to run all of the Speer casings through the decapping die so next time maybe I won't have any issues. They were all hard until one got stuck... that ended the day. I froze the die overnight, no help. Heated the case with a propane torch and it squeezed out - I guess softening the brass is more important than heat expansion. Not sure what to do now... try a different die? (all of my dies are Hornady)
 
My Hornady 500S&W dies was also just like the "pineapple anus thing" you describe, until I got a case stuck, and tore the rim getting it out. I was even using lube with the carbide die, trying to make it easier because of the aforementioned "pineapple anus thing". Switched to a Lee carbide sizer, and that works great.

I never had a problem with powder sticking inside the drop tube though. I cleaned mine with good old Crappy Tire brake cleaner. Which I'm pretty sure is exactly the same stuff thats in the Hornady one shot cleaner can.
 
ahlsy said:
My Hornady 500S&W dies was also just like the "pineapple anus thing" you describe, until I got a case stuck, and tore the rim getting it out. I was even using lube with the carbide die, trying to make it easier because of the aforementioned "pineapple anus thing". Switched to a Lee carbide sizer, and that works great.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll see if I can give the Lee dies a shot.

ahlsy said:
I never had a problem with powder sticking inside the drop tube though. I cleaned mine with good old Crappy Tire brake cleaner. Which I'm pretty sure is exactly the same stuff thats in the Hornady one shot cleaner can.
Click to expand...

My drop tube itself didn't have any powder sticking but rather the funnel/clear container bit. Doesn't affect the charge but still annoying since I use 3 diff powders.
 
Another update... it could be my fault. I read that to get the best effect, I have to use the oneshot liberally but let it dry fully. I didn't, I figured a bit of wet film is extra lube... but that probably caused extra friction with the cleaner being in the mix. I'll try again.

EDIT: that did it... sprayed them down good, let them dry a minute until they didn't look wet, and ran them all (about 20) through the decapping/sizing die, all nice and smooth.
 
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To eliminate powder sticking to the side of the drop tube on my LNL AP I bought some cheap graphite spray from canuck tire, sprayed some paper towel, and wiped all the components with dry graphite. The graphite really helped the sticking issue. Another tip is to rub a used dryer sheet on the inside of the powder drop tube as this eliminates static.
 
nevanevan said:
To eliminate powder sticking to the side of the drop tube on my LNL AP I bought some cheap graphite spray from canuck tire, sprayed some paper towel, and wiped all the components with dry graphite. The graphite really helped the sticking issue. Another tip is to rub a used dryer sheet on the inside of the powder drop tube as this eliminates static.
Click to expand...

Will try both, thanks!
 
Just to clarify Hornady makes multiple sprays using the "One Shot" name.
There is Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube which is used to clean and lubricate the press.
This is what I use and it works very well on my press.

There is also Hornady One Shot Case Lube which in my opinion isn't worth crap.

If it is a spray on case lube you want Dillon or Frankford Arsenal case lube, which is made of lanolin and isopropyl alcohol, is much better.
If you want to lube cases one by one Hornady Unique or Imperial Sizing Wax is the way to go.
 
x2 on the Hornady unique! It may be a little slower but worth the extra time / effort in my opinion. I shoot a fair # of wildcats that I have to form my own brass for and it seems to be the most effortless lube I have tried.
 
I was having the same sticking issue and I use Lee dies and RCBS Case Slick. Ended up it was my fault, I wasn`t letting the case slick dry before resizing. So now I will spray all my shells and let sit for about 3 minutes, then I can fly through them! What an experience that is, I was using Lee case lube that I would water down and apply BY HAND...."talk about a slow procedure and messy". Never again, RCBS Case Slick is quick as heck!!! Now I just have to sell my powder thrower and scale and buy a electronic one, that will speed things up lots more!
 
Yeah that ended up being my problem too. Pretty amazing difference once you let the lube dry. Just need to plan the process so you can let the cases sit for a while after spraying and do something else.
 
Just remembered something else. I went to buy bolts to mount the press and the manual calls for 5/16". I didn't even think to imagine the bolt size and went to get some. When I picked up the bolt at the hw store, I figured I remembered it wrong. I clearly remembered the mounting holes being big enough to shove my pinky through. While in the store, I looked up the bolt size and found a very helpful thread from a guy who confirmed that the manual calls for 5/16 but when he mounted the press, the holes were way bigger and the press would move around. He tried 3/8", better but still moved. Then he measured the holes and they're an even half inch. He got half inch bolts and the press stays solid as a rock. I did the same and he was right. Bolts fit perfect and the press is super solid.

Coles notes: MOUNT THE LOCK N LOAD AP WITH 1/2" BOLTS
 
another lube to try is dillion's, or so i've heard. i'm reloading for 500S&W and although i can use my lee dies with out lube it helps to have some. right now i use lee's but i find it a pain to put on.
 
This happened to mine after only 150 rounds of 40S&W:

I'm gonna call them tomorrow.

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As many others experienced, the drive hub is the weak link of the whole setup.
 
That's it. They'll send you a new one for free.

Is that snapped in half?

Mine just kept snapping that little nodule on the top. Nothing like yours.

WoW!
 
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