Sorry, can't recall. But it was waaaaay out there. I got out of reloading for my m305 shortly after that, and the information was thus reclassified.
And sorry again: I don't give away the origin of my obscure sig line references on the first date.
Reloading for the m14- where to find brass? Other tips?
- Thread starter GunNewb
- Start date
Sorry, can't recall. But it was waaaaay out there. I got out of reloading for my m305 shortly after that, and the information was thus reclassified.
And sorry again: I don't give away the origin of my obscure sig line references on the first date.
- Location
- Halifax, NS
You can use standard 308 brass for a norinco M305. If you want to be 100% sure, try to chamber the brass before loading it. It should slide in and out of the chamber will little assistance. Maybe a bump on the floor with the butt stock and the case should slide right out.
Something that no one has mentioned yet that I think is extremly important for both handloaders and non-handloaders is an adjustable gas plug. Not a do or die component obviously but if you are having issues with bent up case necks, get an adjustable gas plug.
I've got one for my Garand and the brass doesn't fly any further than 5 feet from the rifle. Loom up Schuster Mfg.
Something that no one has mentioned yet that I think is extremly important for both handloaders and non-handloaders is an adjustable gas plug. Not a do or die component obviously but if you are having issues with bent up case necks, get an adjustable gas plug.
I've got one for my Garand and the brass doesn't fly any further than 5 feet from the rifle. Loom up Schuster Mfg.
Sorry, can't recall. But it was waaaaay out there. I got out of reloading for my m305 shortly after that, and the information was thus reclassified.
And sorry again: I don't give away the origin of my obscure sig line references on the first date.
That be Gunther Hurmann
Loading mixed headstamps the same isn't REALLY a problem. Just be aware that they WILL perform differently. You may get different POI from each case when using the same powder charge, primer, bullet and COAL. There are some cases, as stated the military spec ones, that you should be reducing your powder charge.
When I load I generally have "one" load that I like to use per caliber but often I have a mix of different manufacturers of brass. I'll sort them in batches of manufacturers but I'll still use the same load for each case. With the amount of powder I generally use and the mid-power spec of them I don't have very much difference in POI or brass life. But it is good to keep in mind that things will change between manufacturers and often between batches from the same manufacturer.
I mix headstamps all the time. The m1a needs tame loads with bullet weights from 150 to 168 gr.
I use 4895 or varget loaded on the easy on the action side. I've seen guys bang up the op rod with heavy loads.
To make brass with heavy factory loads. I'll close the gas port off and run it as a bolt gun. Primers not seated right will give you a run away gun.
I use 4895 or varget loaded on the easy on the action side. I've seen guys bang up the op rod with heavy loads.
To make brass with heavy factory loads. I'll close the gas port off and run it as a bolt gun. Primers not seated right will give you a run away gun.
Well I'm shooting IVI match brass in my norc, at 43.5 grs of 4895 I'm getting quite flattened primers, 43 grains is starting load in my nosler manual.
I would reccommend starting below max by a grain, maybe more. This is based on my experience using IVI brass.
I would reccommend starting below max by a grain, maybe more. This is based on my experience using IVI brass.
Sluggo_m14
CGN Regular
- Location
- State of Disbelief
Maybe you could check the case volume after resizing using the water technique-(a digital scale with gram indication is handy for this) just fill the case with water ( - fill the primer pocket with a spent primer)-the weight in grams will be the volume in ml, then compare it to other headstamps you use. I think you will find the WCC brass similar to winchester brass, maybe a little greater volume. Is the year marked on the brass?
I would just start a couple grains below max going with the WCC brass. I don't know for a fact, but I have read that the IVI brass has the smalled internal volume of any of NATO brass. I don't know if its 100% accurate though. I would just start at 10% below minimum and work your way back. Id use 3 round groups for the preliminary testing, paying clsoe attention to pressure signs.
Thats how I'd go about it.
Thats how I'd go about it.
Reloading for autoloaders is just a PITA. I've been spending more time with my bolt gun for that reason. Neck size and I 'm done. Case length trimming, lubing for full length sizing, and deep primer seating are a few things that make the process more tedious for my M14 brass. If you did a bulk case prep of around 800 IVI brass like I did, it might be more efficient. I'm a stickler for neck run-out. So there I find myself measuring and separating all 800 brass for concentricity like an idiot. More concentric for some accuracy for the deliberates and less concentric for the close range 3gun and CQB matches. OCD can be so annoying sometimes.
My m305 seems to like loads around and even below minimum ... I don't really worry about mixing head stamps for plinking ammo (usually set my powder throw for min. Charge, maybe a half grain above. Set my sweater die and away I go) for some more precision loading ill sort headstamps (win in one pile rem in another federal in the garbage) and work my load up from min
Wild_Thing
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- In the thick of it!
Yep. That wouldn't surprise me at all. While the NATO brass is tougher than the commercial .308 stuff available, who knows what the ammo was originally used in.
A dirty, hot GPMG tearing the casings out can stretch out that brass more than pop's bolt deer rifle.
- Location
- Halifax, NS
I hear ya! I never knew I had OCD until I set up my reloading bench and started loading for all my firearms.
At least I'm not like my friend who can't go to the range and the just put his handguns away without cleaning them.
Not so sure I agree with that whole statement Lord. I have never loaded the Lake City stuff, but use Remington, Federal and Winny brass for my Norc. With a M14, there is no logical reason for not mixing headstamps if your case preparation is consistently the same. I load all my commercial brass to the NATO velocity spec. Some of my cases have been through the ringer 5 times. (The head gets pretty chewed up from the extractor.) However, let me be clear, I have not had ANY case separations to date - so I can veritably state that there is no issue with mixing commercial headstamped brass.
With my old (Norc bolt) I did not resize fully, as I left .005" between the shell holder and the base of the die.
Unless a reloader is stuffing the case to the maximum load and beyond, that statement is totally untrue. Some folks may practice (loading beyond book values) this for reasons of their own choosing, but if one reads the reloading manuals carefully, the load recipe's do not specify which casing brand applies to the load. There are a number of safety factors built into the recommended loads which also take into account the average variables between casing manufacturers and even variances within each brand itself. The pressures will vary anyway, not only due to casing volume, but more so with the variances in the powder batching and other reloading variables.
Also, the reloading manual specifications are published to common commercial brass and not military. With the military stuff, I understand there is additional work needed to be done to the case preparation and to find the sweet load, and as with commercial, you need to work up your loads. I've been told there is a difference.
Just my $0.02
LordEvilPepper
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Under a rusty barge in BC
Some comercial cases have more internal volume, for example, my norma brass can hold 55.7 grains of blc-2 if i were to fill it level to the top of the case neck, my win RP brass can hold 56.1, lake city brass can hold 53.1
It doesn't seem like much but that can cause huge velocity swings. 43 grains in lake city kicks harder then 46 grains in win RP with the same 150gr bullet. despite the diferance of only 3 grains in internal volume, 43 grains in LC gives me an average of 2780 F/S velocity and kicks like a mule. 46 grains in a win RP only gives me average 2710 f/s and feels like a moderate push.
Everyone is entilled to their opinion, but personaly I would never mix military and non military brass due to safty concerns. Even with all comercial brass unless I am loading granny loads, I would never mix head stamps either. Safty aside why would i fustrate myself with inconsistent velocity causing rounds to be well, inconsistent... aka bigger groupings? at 100 yeah sure maybe it opens up .5 to 1 inch no big deal.... by the time you hit 300+ were i like to shoot thats diferance between a hit and a miss as your 1 inch is now three or more.
It doesn't seem like much but that can cause huge velocity swings. 43 grains in lake city kicks harder then 46 grains in win RP with the same 150gr bullet. despite the diferance of only 3 grains in internal volume, 43 grains in LC gives me an average of 2780 F/S velocity and kicks like a mule. 46 grains in a win RP only gives me average 2710 f/s and feels like a moderate push.
Everyone is entilled to their opinion, but personaly I would never mix military and non military brass due to safty concerns. Even with all comercial brass unless I am loading granny loads, I would never mix head stamps either. Safty aside why would i fustrate myself with inconsistent velocity causing rounds to be well, inconsistent... aka bigger groupings? at 100 yeah sure maybe it opens up .5 to 1 inch no big deal.... by the time you hit 300+ were i like to shoot thats diferance between a hit and a miss as your 1 inch is now three or more.
