BLR trigger adjustment?? Schematic diagram. Can it be ???

powder burner

powder burner

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I was tinkering around with my BLR and noticed that there is a very small set screw just above the trigger. It seemed like it could be used to adjust the trigger or at least minimize the creep in it.

So I found this online, and was wondering if anyone has tried to adjust their trigger themselves? The part #B3475358 is called the Trigger Adjusting Screw. Not being anywhere near as skilled as a gunsmith, I was wondering if anyone has adjusted the trigger thamselves, and if it should just be left alone, lol? I Dont really want to eff something up. It does seem like a very tight fit to get into the trigger adjusting screw. AND no, I will not be taking the action apart as they dont seem to go back together well, as heard from other CGNers.


Here are the links I found:

http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/ctgy/BLR_Lightning_Parts


http://midwestgunworks.com/images/blrltnglong.pdf
 
I got a BLR in .308 and was looking for a way to cleanup the trigger pull. I called around and emailed a couple gunsmiths and nobody really wanted to mess with it. If you do find a way that's easy enough, please post it or send me a PM. Thanks
 
Trigger adjustment keeps those in the know pretty tight lipped.
Liability issues?
If you go too far with whatever adjustment you're attempting,
replacement parts are on order.
If after all the tweeking it fails the bump test, the firearm is unsafe.
And to pass this unit up on the EE is also suspect.
Best to pay those equiped with the knowledge to perform this operation.
 
I tried that little screw on my wife's BLR and regardless of whether it was turned in or out there was no noticeable change in the heavy though crisp trigger pull on her rifle.
 
I used to do trigger jobs on BLR's. They turned out pretty decent. The only way was to take the sears out and work on them and reinstall and take the sears out and work on them and reinstall and take the sears out and work on them and reinstall and take the sears out and work on them and reinstall until you got what you wanted or one of more parts were too screwed and you had to buy a new part and start over... I don't bother with them anymore.
 
My understanding is that screw will only take up creep - I have a G-smith who will work on the trigger - says it can run $150 - $175 for the work cus its a lot of trial and error or more precisely - it has to be taken out, worked on, and reinstalled several times as no two are the same and you cant be too aggressive cus theres no turning back. He can get them down to 3.5lbs. See from Browning specs thay are factory set at 7lbs 9ozs ......... wtf are they thinking? PM me for the Smiths contact if you like he's in the south central BC area.
 
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