Hi just wondering if anyone has bedded their fn 98 from the recoil lug to the end of the barrel channel I was bored and did so to mine it actually turned out very nice one of my better bedding jobs, havent had a chance to shoot it yet like this. So what do you guys think was it a good idea or should I have free floated it.
full length bedding on Husqvarna fn 98 Good? Bad?
- Thread starter Tachunter
- Start date
burnt_servo
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- right in the middle of b.c.
i have a husqvarna 1600 that i'm rebarreling to 9.3x62 . given how fragile the stock appears to be , my intention is to full length bed the stock in an attempt to keep the stock from coming apart .
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
I believe that lots of older BR rifles were full length bedded back in the güten alten tagen. I've never done it myself but if Ted says it'll work, it'll work.
Proof is in the pudding. Give it a few groups and report back.
Proof is in the pudding. Give it a few groups and report back.
I had that in mind also as this one is a 9.3x62 and has been repaired once it had the typical tang crack this should beef the whole works up a bit.
burnt_servo
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- right in the middle of b.c.
mine started out as a 270 featherweight with a broken wrist than someone tried to repair .
i took a die grinder and ground out the entire insides of the wrist and into the stock almost 8 inches ( measured from the rear of the action ) i left about 1/8 to at most 1/4 inch of a inch of wood as a veneer . then i filled the cavity with 3m's panel bonding adhesive .
about 4 inches from the chamber end of the barrel i am going to use , there is a barrel band with a threaded end that goes through th stock . i was thinking about turning this into another recoil lug .
i'm not sure how this will affect accuracy .... i'm just trying to keep the stock from turning into pile of splinters , while still looking as original as possible .
Tachunter,
When you do it, the best method in my experience is to bed it all at once; receiver, lug, and entire barrel channel. It is never as accurate if you bed the receiver and lug area, then do the barrel. The cold joint, even when bonded well, causes accuracy issues.
Might seem a bit intimidating at first, but take your time preparing everything, mix up more bedding compound than you think you will need, and don't let it rush you once you start. I always start applying the bedding in the middle of the barrel channel and work both directions from there. Make sure you have the sides of the channel thoroughly coated all the way to the top of the stock first, and then down into the bottom.
I use a tongue depressor to sort of squeegee the bedding along the sides and up to the top. From there, it's simply a standard bedding job, with the receiver and lug area compound flowing into the barrel channel.
Now, take a good look at everything, relax, and begin to set the barrelled action into the stock. I always set the receiver tang into the stock first, and let the rest of the metal sort of fall down into the compound under its own weight. It will settle in and begin to squeeze the compound out from under the metal. Apply enough pressure to set the metal into the stock to the proper depth.
Okay, almost there......remove the excess bedding compound with anything that will not scratch the metal, and put it back into the mixing container, then into the freezer. You can use it later for small jobs, or to skim bed the rifle you are working on.
Don't let this job frighten you at all, and whatever you do, don't rush! It is done no differently than an ordinary bedding job, just more area involved, and takes about three minutes longer to do. Even if it takes you fifteen minutes longer, you will be fine. The compound will take much longer than that to start hardening, once it is spread out in the stock.
Ted
When you do it, the best method in my experience is to bed it all at once; receiver, lug, and entire barrel channel. It is never as accurate if you bed the receiver and lug area, then do the barrel. The cold joint, even when bonded well, causes accuracy issues.
Might seem a bit intimidating at first, but take your time preparing everything, mix up more bedding compound than you think you will need, and don't let it rush you once you start. I always start applying the bedding in the middle of the barrel channel and work both directions from there. Make sure you have the sides of the channel thoroughly coated all the way to the top of the stock first, and then down into the bottom.
I use a tongue depressor to sort of squeegee the bedding along the sides and up to the top. From there, it's simply a standard bedding job, with the receiver and lug area compound flowing into the barrel channel.
Now, take a good look at everything, relax, and begin to set the barrelled action into the stock. I always set the receiver tang into the stock first, and let the rest of the metal sort of fall down into the compound under its own weight. It will settle in and begin to squeeze the compound out from under the metal. Apply enough pressure to set the metal into the stock to the proper depth.
Okay, almost there......remove the excess bedding compound with anything that will not scratch the metal, and put it back into the mixing container, then into the freezer. You can use it later for small jobs, or to skim bed the rifle you are working on.
Don't let this job frighten you at all, and whatever you do, don't rush! It is done no differently than an ordinary bedding job, just more area involved, and takes about three minutes longer to do. Even if it takes you fifteen minutes longer, you will be fine. The compound will take much longer than that to start hardening, once it is spread out in the stock.
Ted
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Apreciate the advice but i already had it done when i posted ive done quite a few bedding jobs just never tried a full length till now it come out pretty nice just trying to get some ammo together for it to try it out now i will post some groups for all of you when i get some ammo or components rounded up
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BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
Ted, you forgot to tell him to use release agent and tape off the top of the stock to mitigate the overflow.
About 10 years ago I bought my wife a .243, and when I took the barreled action out of the stock I noticed it was full length bedded in brown Acraglass. Because it would take so long to grind that lot out to float the barrel I decided to shoot it as is. The first three shots at 100 yards went into 1 1/4". I believe that was the biggest group I ever shot with it. I don't know if the bedding had anything to do with it, but it never changed zero either.
Mrs Vizsla went on to take a fair few springbuck and a nice gemsbuck with that rifle before we moved to the UK.
Mrs Vizsla went on to take a fair few springbuck and a nice gemsbuck with that rifle before we moved to the UK.
well got a chance to try it out and not to bad 1.75moa at 100yds with open sights 4 shot group with factory hornady 286gr DG ammo. Im sure it will be much better with a new peep and trigger. But either way thats plenty good enough for me off open sights and poi didnt change much when the barrel heated up so Id say the bedding job is doing its part.
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BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
I know that you get help from above, but I still have to use diaper cream on the metal and tape on the outside of the stock to avoid permabedding it!
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
Umm...does Mr Vizsla know about this? Or is Mrs Vizsla also Mrs Windknot?
Moose Masher
CGN Regular
- Location
- Oak Hammok Manitoba
I read an article in Rifleshooter I believe it was, that explained how to get the amount of pressure desired.
The rifle was held upside-down in a vice with a weighed bucket of water hung off the barrel while bedding compound set-up at the end of the barrel channel.
An 8 lb bucket of water = 8 lbs of fore end pressure.
I can't remember where the bucket was placed, close to the fore end or closer to the muzzle.
I suppose placing it out by the muzzle might have additional leveraging effect.
Tagged for interest in this thread, I have an FN husky that I'm going to have bedded soon as well. I was trying to decide between floating it or fully bedding the barrel, and my concern was the bedding being shifted as the wood swells and moves. My rifles go through a greater range of humidities, climates and storage conditions than most. Would fully bedding the barrel channel help to stabilize the wood over the long term, or will the wood still be shifting things around? My other concern about floating the barrel is that the fore end is already quite thin, it doesn't look like there is alot of excess thickness and I was concerned that removing more wood might weaken the stock further and allow excess flexing.
I'm just looking for the best long term stability and consistency, with "very good" accuracy but not bench rest naturally.
I'm just looking for the best long term stability and consistency, with "very good" accuracy but not bench rest naturally.
