Turning 30/06 Brass into 8x57 Mauser for your K98's

Dutchie,

Nice writeup.

I just did up 50 rds last week, converting .270 to 8mm mauser.

A couple of suggestions;

-I always anneal first when converting brass from one caliber to another.

-I use a small, handheld pipe cutter to cut the excess neck off the brass, 2-3 twists and you're done; less than five seconds per piece. It is also very precise if you mark it for this purpose, typically +/- 5 thou.

Why was I converting .270 to 8mm mauser? I rarely buy brass new, and seems like everyone has loads of 1F .270 brass they're willing to sell you for less than half of 1F 8mm mauser brass, if you can find any. Even more common and cheaper than 1F 30-06, in my experience.
 
Making life easier is no fun, when you can figure problems out yourself.

A shooting sension is 100 rounds or more. Buying someones, "once fired brass" is not reliable when you're shooting them regularly, and need to know what your case life is going to be. They might be fine for a couple of loading sesions, but that's about it.



I just reload for my Hunting rifles, i dont really shoot more then 20 rnds, each time i go out with my 8mm, i always use my other calibers at the same time.
 
Pipecutter eh? That's a great idea. Cutting the brass is my least favourite part of this process. The same one for cutting 1/2 copper at Canadian tire?

Dutchie


Dutchie,

Nice writeup.

I just did up 50 rds last week, converting .270 to 8mm mauser.

A couple of suggestions;

-I always anneal first when converting brass from one caliber to another.

-I use a small, handheld pipe cutter to cut the excess neck off the brass, 2-3 twists and you're done; less than five seconds per piece. It is also very precise if you mark it for this purpose, typically +/- 5 thou.

Why was I converting .270 to 8mm mauser? I rarely buy brass new, and seems like everyone has loads of 1F .270 brass they're willing to sell you for less than half of 1F 8mm mauser brass, if you can find any. Even more common and cheaper than 1F 30-06, in my experience.
 
Great write up with the pics. I have done this procedure and it works perfectly. I just wish people at my club would shoot 30-06 so I could get some free brass myself and keep the costs even lower. Thanks for the write up !
 
reloading is the only way to go for the 8mm. BTW - which powder are you using? You're write up doesn't say. My present load is a Hornady 150gr SP over 51.5 gr of IMR4350. Bullet is set to 3mm behind the lands. Gives me a nice 5/8" group at 100m and about 2600 fps. rifle is a sportized BRNO VZ24.
 
reloading is the only way to go for the 8mm. BTW - which powder are you using? You're write up doesn't say. My present load is a Hornady 150gr SP over 51.5 gr of IMR4350. Bullet is set to 3mm behind the lands. Gives me a nice 5/8" group at 100m and about 2600 fps. rifle is a sportized BRNO VZ24.

I bought some surplus WC 845 from Higginson Powder a few years ago, and am just getting to the end of that order of 14 lbs. Good stuff for shooting up to 200 yards with surplus guns and very economical. I use it for 30/06 K98, 8mm K98's, 308 Remington 700, and .223 Remington in an AR15. I just generally use the cheap surplus powder for anything that does not have an optic on it. Now my .338 TRG 42...that's a different story, and a different finance department.

49 grains WC845 for the 30/06 22 inch bbl right now. Big bang. Lots of flash.

43.1-5grain WC845 for the 8mm Mauser K98's pushing a 198 grain FMJ. Good solid performer.
 
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If you remove the crank handle from the case trimmer and use a cordless drill it saves cutting the brass.............Harold
 
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