To free float or not to free float

flandersander

flandersander

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Saskatoon, sk
Hi all. I've got a Parker hale safari in 308. It's new to me. So new in fact, that I haven't shot it yet. I have a couple more days until I can finally rip some lead down the barrel. I've got a little time on my hands, and am wondering if this gun will benefit from a freely floated barrel or not? The previous owner bedded the recoil lug and action face/barrel base. Looks like they actually did a decent job, although it was incomplete, as they didn't bed the rear of the receiver. Anywho, what do you think? Should I go ahead and remove some material from the barrel channel? Or will I have to shoot it to know? Thanks.
Keagan
 
shoot it first and if it shoots well as is? leave it alone. If you think it could improve by freefloating and glass bedding? do so.
 
Are you refering to the bedding in the channel, or does the barrel contact the stock further down? If your talking about the bedding, if I'm not mistaken bedding the barrel base is fine if not desirable. If the barrel contacts the stock further down the barrel it may be by design, so as kimmer said, shoot it first and see what happens. If the stock is obviously warped I'd still shoot it first. I had an old BSA that made contact in a way that it was plain it wasn't by design and it was very accurate, that or I was having a very good day with the iron sights (not likely).
 
Remington bedded the barrels at the top of the forend in most of the 788's, they were tack drivers for a cheap rifle. most remingtons have a pressure point in the forend to stop vibration.
 
Float the barrel, the contact point in Remingtons is not for accuracy, it keeps the barrel and forend aligned if the stock warps or the barrel is installed crooked. This is to make a new gun look good and saleable not for accuracy.
 
flandersander said:
....The previous owner bedded the recoil lug and action face/barrel base. Looks like they actually did a decent job, although it was incomplete, as they didn't bed the rear of the receiver....
Click to expand...
I would leave that part as is. I've done my own hunting rifles that way and they shoot extremely well.

I'm with Ian on free floating the barrel. The barrel has a better chance of showing it's true accuracy potential free floated.
 
The reason a free floating barrel is desirable is the point of impact does not change from one week to another as the stock may due to variations in humidity and temperature. Barrel heat does not affect the bedding either. I much prefer a free floated barrel. It's rare that a barrel won't shoot well when floated.
 
Thanks for the advice. I should have been a little more clear. The bedding job stops just forward of the recoil lug. The barrel channel has not been bedded, but the barrel contacts the stock all the way down. I'll shoot the thing with some match grade ammo, and if I get a decent group I may well leave it alone. Guess I'll see. Thanks again for the advice.

So if I get, oh let's say, a 1.25" group at 100 with the barrel free floated, what if any, change could I potentially see with a free floated barrel? Or is that something I will only know if I try?

Looking at getting into some longer range shooting with this beaut, so we'll see how it goes.
 
Is this a heavy target type or hunting barrel?

The problem with contact all the way through is when the barrel heats up. Point of impact changes and vibrations change.
Like most hunting rifles I get here to zero for friends, groups change POI.
If your considering Long Range shooting a heavy free floated barrel is best.
 
It is the factory barrel. Regular hunting contour. I feel I dont have anything to lose free floating it, as I shot this group this evening. It was gusty wind and I had my tall bipod on, so I shot sitting instead of prone. I feel like there is more potential there if I had a proper rest and better conditions.
2013-01-04185915.jpg
 
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