Problem with 1911 re-assembly

Defictonde

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So I got my Colt Gold Cup National Match finally, and started the disassembly, took it down to bare frame, and I ran into a bit of a snag in the re-assembly

The sear / disconnector (as pictured) come with a little lever and pain in the ass micro spring that make this part almost impossible and all the assembly videos I've seen don't have those

2ahzfhz.jpg


any tips / vids on the technique ?
 
Re-assemble the sear/disconnect/thingamabobber using the hammer strut pin as a slave pin to hold it all together. (In these pics its the sear pin but the assembly can be reinstalled with the strut pin in place. Once its positioned in the frame, drift out the strut pin with the sear pin, done.

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how the hell do you make the spring not fly out when you position that little piece of black S**T on there haha

only one of my pins will fit in that whole :(
 
GOT IT ! Thanks to the slave pin trick ! I didn't disasemble the hammer so I didn't see that little pin, OMG thank you !
 
I live to give!

Actually, I had the same problem right after taking delivery of my old .38 midrange NM. Tore it apart and heard something whizz past my head. Looking at the pieces, I thought "What the heck is THIS junk?" Luckily found everything and googled my way back through assembly.
 
Its to help prevent trigger bounce on the older NM pistols. Its called a sear depressor, and from what I've read this method was eliminated with the introduction of lighter aluminum triggers in the newer pistols. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
 
Oh god, wtf do I do with those, don't tell me they go on the sear pin...

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Those are the model 80 safety parts. See Deadman's diagram.

The little tear drop part (lower part on the diagram aka Trigger Bar Lever) gets assembled on the same sear pin on the very right side of the sear/disconnector assembly and right side of the frame. Make note of the orientation! It's a little tricky to get them all aligned up. When you pull the trigger, the back of the trigger bow pushes on the arm which in turn pushes on the plunger lever.

The other small L shaped part (aka Plunger Lever) gets pinned above the trigger bar lever with the hammer pin. Again, note the orientation. This part pushes up on the firing pin plunger, allowing the firing pin to be engaged when the hammer is released.

If assembled correctly, when you pull the trigger, you should see the plunger lever lift upwards.

The first time I mucked around a model 80, I had the trigger bar lever installed incorrectly. The arm was too far backwards and would not engage the plunger lever.

Remember, never dry fire a field stripped 1911 unless you control the hammer so that it does not fall on the frame.

When you reassemble, make sure to depress the plunger lever down so that the slide can slide back into place. After assembly, run your safety checks. If all passes, stick a pencil all the way back into the barrel, #### the hammer and fire in a safe direction. The pencil should eject out of the barrel with some force. If it just jumps or falls out, you're assembled those two parts incorrectly. Strip it down and redo.

Fun stuff!
 
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Here's some more reference pics:

The yellow arrow is indicating the top of the plunger lever.

Series80Frame.jpg


This diagram indicates the location of the parts.

series80colorax6.jpg
 
I kinda figured it out on my own, kinda wish I looked at those diagrams before, my advice : Don't strip a national match to bare frame if it's your first 1911 ever

I started taking it down at 7:30pm, it's 2:15 am and I just finished putting it back together

But now I know my gun inside out haha
 
Agreed. You need like three hands and baby fingers!

You can always convert a series 80 to 70 by buying a shim from Brownells that replaces those two parts, then you simply remove the firing pin plunger from the slide. :p
 
I once installed the lifter incorrectly with the series 80 safety. Once you've had it apart a couple times it's pretty straight forward actually.
 
Agreed. You need like three hands and baby fingers!

You can always convert a series 80 to 70 by buying a shim from Brownells that replaces those two parts, then you simply remove the firing pin plunger from the slide. :p

Guess what........... I ordered that little shim from Brownells and the damn thing was removed from my order!! Can't be exported from US.
I was going to use that little shim to make a full auto supressed weopon of terror.
 
Guess what........... I ordered that little shim from Brownells and the damn thing was removed from my order!! Can't be exported from US.
I was going to use that little shim to make a full auto supressed weopon of terror.

Oh for farks sakes! Really?! I was getting an order together and had that part on my shopping cart to give it a try. Cr@p! that's pretty silly.
 
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