How many lap thier scope rings

chola

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I read a few places that rings such as Talleys 1 pc do not require lapping...it was a conversation we were having on our way to work...
How many out there lap their rings and is it very difficult to do..saw a few vids on it and it seems pretty straight forward.

What is the best kit to get for this, any to stay away from ?
 
I've got two rifles that the rings were never lapped, and I don't seem to have any issues with them, one was mounted by the previous owner, the other by me- carefully. I plan on re-mounting them now that I've got the tools to do so. I've just finished 'fixing' a botched mounting job on a friend's rifle that was supposedly done by the 'pros' at WSS in Grande Prairie. He'd bought a new Elite 6500 Tactical to put on a Tikka T3 and the first time out, the bases sheared off- screws overtightened. The next time around, he noticed his groups were all over the place. I took photos as I took it apart- rub marks where the scope moved, and was only making contact with about 10% of the metal in the rings. Rub marks where the bases moved. Nothing Loc-Tited, nothing torqued- all the screws were loose. Bases and rings also weren't aligned, and the crosshairs not leveled to the bore. So much for a 'pro' job. I've watched the guys at the counter there take a scope, drop it in the rings and say 'looks good', tighten it down and send it out. I'd have no faith in this. I don't 'think' they managed to damage the scope itself, which is lucky. A coworker had the same store crush a brand new $1000 Leupold mounting it their way.

Lapping didn't take long, and now the rings have about a 90% bearing surface on the scope. He hasn't shot it yet, but I expect his accuracy problem was the scope/rings/bases moving every time he shot it. The set I'm using is made by Wheeler, got it at Cabela's. Comes with the FAT Wrench (for torquing screws), Loc-Tite, lapping bars and alignment bars for 1" and 30mm, Level-level-level to level the crosshairs, lapping compound and a DVD. $130, IIRC. The video is straightforward, my only advice is when using the alignment bars, don't use them point to point. This isn't always accurate- two dogs touching noses don't mean their arses are in line. Use them butt to butt. If you can get hold of one, this h t tp://echolsrifles.########.ca/2013/01/scope-mounting-alignment-bars.html is a better tool to align the rings, and much more useful.

There's my 2 cents, for what it's worth....
 
I lap virtually all scope rings that I mount, except for one-piece base-and-rings units. Its easy to do and is well worth the minimal time and effort. I use a simple lapping kit I got at a gunshow, and align the rings with two pieces of 1" or 30mm round stock I got from a machinist friend. I agree with NorthernCX that two flat cut ends are more useful for this job than a pair of pointed ends that don't guarantee alignment.

After you do a number of them you will be surprised at just how poorly aligned the scope mounting holes on a lot of new rifles are. The occasional gun that has perfectly aligned front and rear rings without lapping at all is a rarity.
 
I've never understood why people think that Talley one pieces are less likely to need lapping than anything else. Even if they were more precise than other rings that doesn't mean that the action is machined perfectly or that the screws are drilled straight.

For what its worth, the one set of Talley ring bases I put on was horrendously out of alignment.
 
I am trying the Burris rings, with Burris synthetic inserts that should correct most minor misalignment flaws by pivoting inside the rings.
They also have an insert shim system that allows scopes to be elevated or depressed without having to purchase a specialty base.

I have all the tools to lap scope rings, but I think I will try this method to see how it goes.
 
I've never understood why people think that Talley one pieces are less likely to need lapping than anything else. Even if they were more precise than other rings that doesn't mean that the action is machined perfectly or that the screws are drilled straight.

For what its worth, the one set of Talley ring bases I put on was horrendously out of alignment.

I believe the units to which you are referring are still two pieces, i.e. a front base/ring unit and a rear base/ring unit. Of course these would benefit from lapping as much as any other set. I was talking about a true one-piece base incorporating a front and a rear ring-bottom, like the "Dednutz" (sp?) type. I've put on a couple of these and they are machined perfectly straight, no lapping required. Of course, if your receiver is drilled imperfectly, they are a major PITA to install.
 
The last scope I mounted was a Zeiss 4.5X14X50 on a Tikka T3 and I elected to float the scope in the rings using JB weld. It worked out very well for me and I'm sure I have 100 percent contact between the rings and scope. This will also leave no marks on the scope tube should you decide to sell it in the future.

There are very good instructions how to do this procedure on the net.
 
I am trying the Burris rings, with Burris synthetic inserts that should correct most minor misalignment flaws by pivoting inside the rings.
They also have an insert shim system that allows scopes to be elevated or depressed without having to purchase a specialty base.

I have all the tools to lap scope rings, but I think I will try this method to see how it goes.
I really like the Burris Signature rings and the Sako/Tikka Optiloks for this fact, they self correct alignment issues and neither will not mark scopes. Too bad both manufacturers haven't figured out how to make these rings in legit low or extra-low heights.
 
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