Cartridge too long.. Handloading issues and solutions. Range Page 2 & 3 44-40WCF

John Y Cannuck

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Cartridge too long.. Handloading issues and solutions. Range Page 2 & 3 44-40WCF

I'm not going into this pretending to be some sort of hand loading guru. Anyone who thinks he is is looking for trouble IMO.

However, I thought I'd share a few things I've picked up over time with the new reloaders here, and bounce some ideas off the old pros while I'm at it.

The issue for this thread is how to fix an issue where the assembled load is too long for the rifle in question.

This could be a feeding issue, where the cartridge hangs up because of it's length, or, it could be that the bullet hits the lands.

The are a few things you can do.

Dealing with either cast, or jacketed bullets, you can simply seat the bullet deeper, and if you need to crimp, use a collet device like the Lee Factory crimp die to position the crimp.

However, there are those of us who use tubular magazine rifles that need a substantial crimp to stop the bullets being shoved into the case by the combined forces of the tube magazine spring, and recoil. Add to that the typical thin brass of older cartridges, and it's a serious issue. Some rifles however, like the model '94 Winchester will feed a case even if the bullet is shoved completely inside. But I digress.

Before we get into this discussion, it needs to be said that the alterations we will be performing will absolutely without a doubt RAISE PRESSURE, it could even raise pressure to DANGEROUS levels depending on what you are working with.
WHY?
Three things.
1, you are using a bullet longer than usual that means it is most likely heavier. (not always, depending on bullet shape) This increase in mass means that a given powder charge has to work harder to get it moving.

2 You are using a bullet that is longer, that may (again not always, depending on bullet shape in this case) mean that it has a longer bearing length. Bearing length being that portion of the bullet than rides on the barrel as the bullet is pushed through the bore. Increasing bearing length, again, makes it harder for the powder gasses to move the bullet and raises pressure.

3. Using a heavier bullet means that the extra mass has to be located either outside or inside the case, or a portion of each. If it is outside, it either lengthens the bullet, or fattens it's profile more towards the round nose side of things. This can play havoc with the distance to the lands, even jam into them. If the mass is inside the case, it reduces powder capacity. Reduced powder capacity, depending on the powder used, and other variables can raise pressures substantially. You need to rework your loads from a safe level.

In addition to the three above, it should be stated that some new bullets are made of or jacketed with materials other than gilding metal (eg: copper). Most of these bullet materials raise pressure at least to some degree by their increased friction with the barrel. Lead bullets however being much easier to push tend to reduce pressure for a given bullet weight and charge, this also can result in a lead bullet flying at a faster speed than a jacketed bullet of the same weight for a given charge. (The word "Can" is in bold, because other variables are at play here. Cast bullets can be very hard indeed, some use gas checks, some do not, hard lead may not seal the barrel, depending on bullet fit to bore, soft lead may 'bump up' and seal the bore, or not, depending on the powder used, either hard or soft can lead the bore depending on other variables to many to get in to here)

Ok, so what I'm working with today is a model '92 Winchester with a cartridge that will not feed due to it's length.
As I previously mentioned, I could just seat the bullet deeper, and that will work, except for the possibility of bullets being pushed back into the case. Even crimping into the lead above the crimp groove is not successful in this case. (tried it).
Using a Lee Factory crimp die to crimp doesn't work here either, as the die is based on crimping the case at the case mouth by known case lengths. It results in a crimp where there is no groove, and with the weak cases the 44-40 has, it slips.

So, we move to the next step. Case modification.

Here we have a pic of three 44-40 assembled cartridges (dummy rounds)

44-40_short_002.jpg


The cartridge on the left is one with the traditional 44-40 200 grain cast bullet.

The one next to it is the new 250 grain bullet seated in the un-altered case. Note how much longer it is than the traditional bullet. Just long enough to tie up either a '92 Winchester, or a 94 Marlin.

The right cartridge is the completed mockup. with the case trimmed to a shorter length enabling a crimp into the crimp groove and a strong hold on the bullet.

Figuring out how much to trim is easy. Simply take the length of the too long cartridge, and subtract the length of the max OAL given in your handloading manual (Yes, you should get one of those)
Alternatively you can measure the length of the cartridge that does feed and use that.
Take the resulting measurement and subtract that from the trim to length given in your manual. (alternately you could subtract it from the length of a once fired case)
You now have the length of the "new" case you are about to create.

You can now trim the case to that length. I just trimmed a bit measured, and trimmed a bit more, going slow and careful, until I had the right length. There are other ways to get it right, but that's what I did. I wasted one case doing this going a bit too far.
I locked in the length on my RCBS case trimmer I then assembled and measured a few dummy rounds and cycled them through my 1892 to check feeding, (perfect!) and proceeded to trim 50 cases for development work on the load.

Crimp? How the hell do you crimp a case that is shorter than it's supposed to be? I'll let you guys discuss that while I go play with what I have so far. I have a plan, I hope yours is better. :)
 
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It's been a while since I bothered to crimp with my seating die, but can't you just adjust the seater lower in the press so the roll crimp occurs where the new end of the brass is?

By trimming the brass, haven't you made the relationship between the bullet tip, ogive and case mouth the same as it would normally be, only with a shorter OAL?
 
It's been a while since I bothered to crimp with my seating die, but can't you just adjust the seater lower in the press so the roll crimp occurs where the new end of the brass is?

By trimming the brass, haven't you made the relationship between the bullet tip, ogive and case mouth the same as it would normally be, only with a shorter OAL?

That will be my first attempt, and in this case (pun intended :) ) it may work. If you shorten your case too much, as I have in the past with other wild experiments, your do not have enough adjustment to crimp. The amount I trimmed this time, is almost an eighth of an inch.
 
I am not sure if this is relevant to your problem of needing to crimp a shorter case but here goes...

In the past I have had a need to push a casing further into a die, instead of removing material from the die, which is an option, I used the ram without a shell holder. This only works in a situation where the casing does not need force to be removed from the die, it won't work in a sizing die for example, but it does work in a seating or crimping die. Food for thought!
 
I am not sure if this is relevant to your problem of needing to crimp a shorter case but here goes...

In the past I have had a need to push a casing further into a die, instead of removing material from the die, which is an option, I used the ram without a shell holder. This only works in a situation where the casing does not need force to be removed from the die, it won't work in a sizing die for example, but it does work in a seating or crimping die. Food for thought!

Good point, that would work in some circumstances. In this case however, only adjustment of the seating die was needed. I got away with it!

Once upon a time I resolved a crimping issue by using a modified wire cutter on a pair of old pliers. I clamped the pliers securely shut, and using the drill press, drilled a hole at the part line that was the diameter of the required crimp. Then tapered the hole with a dremel. It worked very well, and though I never did, I could likely have applied the crimp wherever I wanted.
 
The loads I decided on are as follows.

CAUTION THESE LOADS ARE FOR A late model 1892 WINCHESTER and similar strength rifles ONLY!

(It's one of the strongest rifle out there in 44-40) Don't delude yourself into believing yours is as strong. I've been down that road, and luck was with me I still have all my parts.

These loads are UNTRIED at this point. They are NOT listed in any manual that I could find. They are development only.

Please note that the loads developed in this thread are loads designed for CAST bullets, Jacketed bullets will have higher pressures, possibly dangerously so.

The loads are based on the fact that the 44-40 has a larger case capacity than the 44 Magnum, and the 44 Magnum is both available in the modern '92 Winchester and it's clones, and has been retrofitted to older rifles.

As my cartridge uses cut down brass, I weighed the water capacity of several cut down 44-40 brass compared to a selection of 44 Magnum cases. I found them to be nearly identical.

Based on the above, I concluded that starting loads for the 44 Mag using the same 250 grainlead bullet should be completely safe as starting loads for these cases.

The loads are

1. 18 gr 2400

2. 20 gr 4227

3. 8.5 gr Unique

4. 5.5 gr Bullseye

5. 10 gr HS6

These will be tested for velocity, accuracy, and leading.
Barrel will be cleaned between 10 shot strings.
The bullets I am using are plain base and the lead I am using is somewhat softer than straight wheel weights. Based on my fingernail test :)
 
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I am itching to get to the range, but It may be a while. Next weekend? We'll see.

Side notes:

1. Loading the 44-40 you generally note that the case is not filled well by most pistol powders. Half full or less is the rule generally, and this makes you wonder about powder position issues within the case.

That is not as much of an issue with the above loads in this case. In fact the 2400 and 4227 loads are approaching filling the case to the bullet base. (remember it extends into the case a bit.)

HS6 sits lowest in the case.

2. With the lead bullet extending into the case, the plain base may fall victim to the heat of ignition, and severe leading may result. We'll see!

3. be careful using gas checks on bullets that extend this far into the case. They may fall off inside the case, causing weird things to happen on firing, or maybe not.

The press used throughout this process is the modified Lee Challenger (with much thanks to CGN's Cocked & locked)

Cocked_Locked_mods_to_the_Lee_Challenger_002.jpg


Also note that the 2400 used is not of modern manufacture, it's old batch. The new stuff has a slightly different burn rate. (Yes, I found old data!)
 
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I am itching to get to the range, but It may be a while. Next weekend? We'll see.

Side notes:

1. Loading the 44-40 you generally note that the case is not filled well by most pistol powders. Half full or less is the rule generally, and this makes you wonder about powder position issues within the case.

That is not as much of an issue with the above loads in this case. In fact the 2400 and 4227 loads are approaching filling the case to the bullet base. (remember it extends into the case a bit.)

HS6 sits lowest in the case.

2. With the lead bullet extending into the case, the plain base may fall victim to the heat of ignition, and severe leading may result. We'll see!

3. be careful using gas checks on bullets that extend this far into the case. They may fall off inside the case, causing weird things to happen on firing, or maybe not.

1/ Depending on the range of velocity you're looking for, another option may be going for something like Trailboss. More so in light load applications for the 45-70, and when using small quantities of faster burning powder like Unique, I've used a filler. One of my favorites is a product by Tago called Stopdrafts. It's a very porus foam backer rod, 1/2" in diameter that I cut to a length to fill the space between the base of the bullet and the top of the powder. Doesn't leave any residue behind and all you may notice if you watch closely when you touch off a round is something that looks like a faint puff of dust. Works well.
2/ There may be a slight deterioration of the plain base of a softer lead bullet. However, with something around the hardness of wheel weights or linotype and even with hot loads, I've never noticed it to be enough to 'write home' about.
3/ I don't cast any longer as a friend locally is into it hot & heavy and does an admirable cost effective job. Some of the bullets I use are of a gas check variety. With the gas check installed, then the bullet sized & lubed in a sizing lubricator set up, the gas check gets pretty firmly attached by the process. It's the crimp on variety I speak of. If I remember correctly, there is a caution of sorts and that was in reference to gas check use in that they were best suited to higher velocity loadings. I believe some of the earlier Lyman gas checks were of a press on variety which are somewhat more prone to separating from the bullet base.
 
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Sorry to stray off topic, what did you modify on the Lee Challenger? I have a challenger breechblock I use for depriming only, I am not impressed with the press in any way, and am curious if there are modifications for the challenger.
 
Sorry to stray off topic, what did you modify on the Lee Challenger? I have a challenger breechblock I use for depriming only, I am not impressed with the press in any way, and am curious if there are modifications for the challenger.
Take a close look at the pics. Cocked and locked replaced those damned pot metal links with a one piece stainless steel unit. Smooth and flawless. It's become my go to press for small batches, or load work that requires a lot of case handling, and close observation.
 
1/ Depending on the range of velocity you're looking for, another option may be going for something like Trailboss. More so in light load applications for the 45-70, and when using small quantities of faster burning powder like Unique, I've used a filler. One of my favorites is a product by Tago called Stopdrafts. It's a very porus foam backer rod, 1/2" in diameter that I cut to a length to fill the space between the base of the bullet and the top of the powder. Doesn't leave any residue behind and all you may notice if you watch closely when you touch off a round is something that looks like a faint puff of dust. Works well.
2/ There may be a slight deterioration of the plain base of a softer lead bullet. However, with something around the hardness of wheel weights or linotype and even with hot loads, I've never noticed it to be enough to 'write home' about.
3/ I don't cast any longer as a friend locally is into it hot & heavy and does an admirable cost effective job. Some of the bullets I use are of a gas check variety. With the gas check installed, then the bullet sized & lubed in a sizing lubricator set up, the gas check gets pretty firmly attached by the process. It's the crimp on variety I speak of. If I remember correctly, there is a caution of sorts and that was in reference to gas check use in that they were best suited to higher velocity loadings. I believe some of the earlier Lyman gas checks were of a press on variety which are somewhat more prone to separating from the bullet base.

I don't think I'd get there with Trail Boss. It's a very bulky powder, and doesn't like being compressed. I considered 4756, but I was out. I've also had good luck with HP 38 in the past, but I was out of prepped cases by the time I thought of it.

I do have a considerable amount of wheelweight, and a couple of ingots of Lynotype to work with John, but As I also had some pure lead that Fogducker donated to the cause some time back in the way of some radiation shielding. I thought I'd try a softer alloy. This allow is about 2/3 wheel weights, and the rest pure lead. The idea is a load that seals the bore. I've had accuracy issues with harder alloys. My bullets have to be sized .427 to chamber easily, but would probably shoot better at .429.

I've used fillers extensively with the 45-70 and rel7 with great results. But I find using it to be a PIA.
 
Laugh2
Agreed. No arguement there:).

Years ago, I was recommended to try cream of wheat as a filler for the 44-40. That's fairly easy to do, as you just figure the quantity, and use a powder measure and powder funnel to add the filler. But there are issues.
Cream of wheat is not perfectly dry as it comes in the box, or so I figure, because although the loads used immediately were consistent, those used at a later date were not, in fact some failed to fire at all. dis-assembly of same found the powder had gone to grey, and the cream of wheat was a solid mass.

In the 45-70 I use cotton waste, and that never mixed with the powder, just did it's job, holding the powder close to the primer.

The Cream of wheat I tried in the 44-40 on the other hand, must fill the case to the bottom of the bullet snugly so there is no movement to promote mixing, or your relatively small powder charge may find itself well away from the primer, and divided from the primer by a barrier of cream of wheat. Furthermore, it's quite heavy compared to cotton waste, and that weight must be added to the weight of the bullet in calculating the charge used.
 
Years ago, I was recommended to try cream of wheat as a filler for the 44-40. That's fairly easy to do, as you just figure the quantity, and use a powder measure and powder funnel to add the filler. But there are issues.
Cream of wheat is not perfectly dry as it comes in the box, or so I figure, because although the loads used immediately were consistent, those used at a later date were not, in fact some failed to fire at all. dis-assembly of same found the powder had gone to grey, and the cream of wheat was a solid mass.

In the 45-70 I use cotton waste, and that never mixed with the powder, just did it's job, holding the powder close to the primer. The Cream of wheat I tried in the 44-40 on the other hand, must fill the case to the bottom of the bullet snugly so there is no movement to promote mixing, or your relatively small powder charge may find itself well away from the primer, and divided from the primer by a barrier of cream of wheat. Furthermore, it's quite heavy compared to cotton waste, and that weight must be added to the weight of the bullet in calculating the charge used.

I stayed away from the cream of wheat and similar such fillers, just on the off chance that 'mix' possibility might take place.
The first item I used, shredded cotton balls, and I assume it's similar to your cotton. From the drug store I got Jumbo Puffs, cotton balls that are used for purposes like first aid and cosmetic applications. Worked well in maimtaining the powder close to the primer but it was a time consuming PIA. The material I use now, I determine the space available and I have a little jig made for cutting to length. That goes quick. Then, a quick roll between thumb & forefinger, insert in case over the powder charge. Done.
 
Ok, Range results are in.

Mild day, for January. Plus 2, no wind at the range, and nobody else there to bug me.

44-40 250 grain cast. Cut down Win cases for feeding purposes. Win pistol primers. Lube used throughout was Lee tumble lube.

Feeding was flawless throughout the test. Test range is 50 yards, peep sighted 92 Winchester.

Bullseye 5.5 grains

933.5
934.6
933.7
951.7
948.2
937.6
943.2
932.4
938.6
941.6

Bore was spotless after the string, (Bullseye? wtf?) but the group at 9" really sucked.

#####################################################################

10 grains HS6

1119
1083
1102
1099
1098
1111
1102
1107
1108
1102

A bit of unburnt powder in the bore, no sign of leading.

1.5" 10 shot group YEAH! But slower than I want, more development needed here.

########################################################################X

20 grains 4227

1254
1237
1232
1279
1245
1266
1290
1257
1296
1165

A bit dirty, no lead, 7" group.

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18 gr 2400

1430
1390
1432
1421
1448
1432
1413
1445
1454
1394

No lead, a bit of unburnt powder in bore
6" group

#########################################################

8.5 gr Unique

1216
1224
1242
1246
1233
1209
1192
1237
1202
1225

1.75" group
Fairly clean, no lead

More development needed with this one to, nice group. but more speed wanted.

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1. Overall, no pressure sign was exhibited by anything, the feel of the loads was that they were all fairly mild.

2. Do NOT fire heavy loads of 45-70 (after the above) when you may have an undiagnosed shoulder injury *&^*^&%^^%%^$#^$ !!! That hurts!
 
One further note.
I allowed the rifle to cool between strings, but no cooling was undertaken during each string of ten.

After cleaning and before each string including the first one, two jacketted rounds were fired as foulers, and to ensure any lead was minimal.

The HS6 group was really unusual, and I forgot my F'n camera. Most of the holes were touching, in a string from right to left. Some of the bigger groups were not actually measured.
 
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