Think I got's me a 7.5 x 55 but............

Third page and yet I'm the first to say it?
Chamber casting...
It isn't hard and you won't be flirting with danger trying this round and that round.
Melt up a few wheel weights in the garage or get a buddy with a lead pot. Roll up a paper plug and run it a tad into the rifling.
Pour a dipper of molten lead into and fill an oiled chamber. Let it cool and tap it out with a cleaning rod.
Measure.
Done and safely too.
 
Cerrosafe or Cerrobend are what you use for chamber casting.

This model was retailed in .308W and the rifle is marked .308W.

Why even bother?

This is no longer a Swiss Military Rifle.

It is now a Golden State Arms/Santa Fe rifle, sold here either by International or Globe.

If you want to spend money on the critter, find it a Magazine and contact friend diopter on this forum, who has Scope Mounts for these!

These are somewhat clunky looking, but they are real precision.

They are also reliable, lightning-fast and accurate.

What more can a guy ask?

BTW, the "Rubin" of the rifle's name developed the ammunition.

He was ALSO the direct father of the .303, so he definitely knew what he was doing!
 
Get it (bolt) out of the gasoline and into oil fast. Rust will spread like wildfire if left in open to oxegen before it's oiled. Soak it in oil, cover it completely.
 
The .30-30 conversions were on the old '89 rear-locking action. I have one now.

This one is on the later forward-locking action and is marked plainly as a.308.

I just don't understand what the mystery is.
 
And 30-30 was picked for the weaker actioned 1889 because it is the same rim diameter as the 7.5x53 and 7.5x55 cartridges and same diameter bullet. They both use the same shell holder. No changes were needed on the bolt face. Just lathe down the chamber end of the barrel a bit and cut a 30-30 or .308W chamber depending on strength of the action.
.308W is a bit small for the bolt face, but seems to work well enough.
 
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Get it (bolt) out of the gasoline and into oil fast. Rust will spread like wildfire if left in open to oxegen before it's oiled. Soak it in oil, cover it completely.

It took 2 of us to open the bolt because of the oil/grease/goop/mud.
I disammbled the bolt completely and submerged it in gasoline for about 24 hour's. When I removed each piece I scrubbed it down as best I could with bore brush's. When I got to the locking lug section is when I noticed the rust. With nothing to loose I plugged in the bench grinder and wire wheeled the outer surface.When I saw how much cleaner it looked I did the entire bolt.
Then I dropped it into oil for a couple hour's then wiped off the excess and reassembled.
 
From experience.

Before picture:
rustyboltbottom.jpg


Bolt-polisher-2.jpg


Many times.
K31bolts002-1.jpg


after3hrs1-2.jpg
 
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Took it out and test fired 5 round's out of it and no problem's.
Couldn't check for group's, it was tied to a tire and fired with a piece of string.

Does anyone have a clear pic of the mag that fit's this rifle?
I want to place a WTB ad ans a pic will surely help.
 
Mag groupings
a) 1889
b) M93
c) 96/11, M1911, K11
d) K31, Zfk42/43, zfk31/55

Grease
Lubriplate not's bad.
Look for Syntheic base grease with graphite and/ or Moly
 
Thank you diopter!
What was so special about Waffenfett?
Has anyone figure out what it was made from?
I used Canadian issue ball ammo for the test and there were no problem's with extraction and the brass looked and measured great.
 
Just a quick question here, as I happen to have one of these as well... Is factory .308 a no-no in these rifles, or are they strong enough to take it? The only rounds I've shot from mine are light cast bullet loads, 'cause I wasn't sure.
 
Thank you diopter!
What was so special about Waffenfett?
Has anyone figure out what it was made from?
I used Canadian issue ball ammo for the test and there were no problem's with extraction and the brass looked and measured great.

It met the Milspec requirements set out for a grease to work in any automatic weapon operating in the Alps year round, and more specifically in the Stg57 with it's roller locking system. Lifts carbon and other crud off the metal.
 
Just a quick question here, as I happen to have one of these as well... Is factory .308 a no-no in these rifles, or are they strong enough to take it? The only rounds I've shot from mine are light cast bullet loads, 'cause I wasn't sure.

Factory .308 ammo is fine in the rifles so converted for it.
 
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