Bedding a 10/22 *56K Death*

mmattockx

mmattockx

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I just finished bedding my 10/22 mini SOCOM project rifle. I decided to bed a couple inches of the barrel in front of the V-block, under/around the lug where the action screw threads in and around the back of the receiver where it bears against the stock. There is now no play at all when the action sits in the stock, it fits like a glove. The barrel is a 12" McGowan medium contour (straight 0.750" diameter full length in front of the tenon area), full floated in front of the bedding.

How are others doing this? Experiences with how it stands up and improvements in accuracy?

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Mark
 
John_in_BC said:
forgive me, I'm new, but why the contact point ahead of the takedown screw? I thought you were supposed to make it floating ahead of the screw/bed?
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Supporting the barrel helps prevent any 10/22 droop from the barrel weight. On an action without the V-block it is typical to bed the first couple of inches of the barrel directly in front of the receiver, but the V-block precludes that.


Mark
 
That's pretty much how I did mine. One little trick, which I cannot confirm actually makes a difference but it sure sounds good, is before snugging up the action screw prior to epoxy curing, is to hang the firearm upside down. Say suspend the gun by a string through the swivel studs for example. Even further, hang a small weight off the barrel as well. The idea is that this will let gravity deflect the barrel "up" and when you snug up the action screw, the epoxy will cure with what will be just a little positive up pressure, rather than having the gun right-side up, and allowing gravity to droop the barrel and squish the epoxy out of the way.

Again, not sure if it matters.
 
Moose308 said:
That's pretty much how I did mine. One little trick, which I cannot confirm actually makes a difference but it sure sounds good, is before snugging up the action screw prior to epoxy curing, is to hang the firearm upside down. Say suspend the gun by a string through the swivel studs for example. Even further, hang a small weight off the barrel as well. The idea is that this will let gravity deflect the barrel "up" and when you snug up the action screw, the epoxy will cure with what will be just a little positive up pressure, rather than having the gun right-side up, and allowing gravity to droop the barrel and squish the epoxy out of the way.

Again, not sure if it matters.
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I didn't use the action screw to hold the action in place, I used tape on the receiver and at the tip of the forearm to hold the barrel standoff from the barrel channel. I never thought about it, but that will provide uplift on the barrel, as the support was at the very back of the receiver and the tip of the forearm, with the clamping force applied near the front of the receiver. The area under the action screw was well off the stock and filled in with epoxy, the action now makes up tight on the epoxy and sits higher than it did before the bedding.


Mark
 
I used Devcon Steel Putty (A) (or Aluminum Putty), not the liquid (B). It works like creamy peanut butter, so it doesn't flow. It sticks. It's expensive, but you get enough for 3-4 rifles. -Don't buy anything out of double-syringe. Not the same stuff.

For release agent, some people use Kiwi shoe polish. I used automotive car wax. Just smear it on and wipe it off so there appears pretty much nothing is there (it is). Also, Plasticine/Putty helps do void fill/dams so the epoxy is contained/restriced to certain areas.
 
Thumper69 said:
What material did you use for the bedding and release agent?I want to do mine but I'm not sure what to use.
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I had a Brownell's bedding kit laying on the shelf, so I used that. I have also used LePage's Steel Epoxy, but it is very hit or miss as to how old the product is. If too old the one component will harden up and be impossible to get out of the tube. I used shoe polish for the release agent and have had no issues through 3 rifles. I put a couple of coats on, then lightly buff it off. If you can still feel a waxy film that is what you want.


Moose308 said:
I used Devcon Steel Putty (A) (or Aluminum Putty), not the liquid (B). It works like creamy peanut butter, so it doesn't flow. It sticks. It's expensive, but you get enough for 3-4 rifles. -Don't buy anything out of double-syringe. Not the same stuff.

For release agent, some people use Kiwi shoe polish. I used automotive car wax. Just smear it on and wipe it off so there appears pretty much nothing is there (it is). Also, Plasticine/Putty helps do void fill/dams so the epoxy is contained/restriced to certain areas.
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I will be looking for the Devcon for the next one I do, where did you buy yours? I use children's modelling clay for dams and plugs to keep the epoxy out of unwanted areas. The non-drying stuff works well and doesn't stain or damage the stock. Cheap, too.


Mark
 
mmattockx said:
I will be looking for the Devcon for the next one I do, where did you buy yours? I use children's modelling clay for dams and plugs to keep the epoxy out of unwanted areas. The non-drying stuff works well and doesn't stain or damage the stock. Cheap, too.
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I got my Devcon from a local place called Industrial Plastics And Paint (they have a web-presence). It's not cheap, but it was definitely cheaper than Acklands-Grainger.
 
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